Brother PR1055X Scan Mat: Turn a Simple Drawing into a Stitch File (Without Touching a Computer)

If you’ve ever stared at the Brother Scan Mat accessory and thought, “I’ll learn that later,” you’re not alone. I’ve watched plenty of capable embroiderers park that scan platform in the box for months—sometimes years—because the first setup feels like you’re taking your machine apart.

Here’s the reality: Machine embroidery is 80% preparation and 20% stitching. On the Brother PR1055X, the Scan Mat + My Design Center workflow is genuinely beginner-friendly, but it requires a specific "order of operations" to be safe and effective.

The Brother PR1055X Scan Mat “Aha” Moment: You’re Not Digitizing Like a Pro—You’re Capturing Clean Shapes

The Scan Mat feature is best when you treat it like a smart tracing tool, not a full digitizing studio. In the video, the design starts as a simple black-and-white unicorn line drawing on paper, then becomes a stitch file created entirely on the machine.

That’s why this workflow is so attractive for specific scenarios:

• Quick patches (Police/Fire/Club logos with simple outlines).
• Kid drawings turned into keepsakes.
• Hobbyists who aren't ready to invest $1,000+ in PC digitizing software.
• Small shops needing fast personalization without a digitizer on staff.

If you’re brand new and the machine feels intimidating, this is one of the safest “first wins” you can give yourself—because the machine guides you screen-by-screen.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Scan: Flat Paper, Clean Lines, and a Magnet Plan That Won’t Bite You Later

Before you touch the screen, your scan quality is decided by physics: Contrast and Flatness.

In the video, the paper drawing is placed in the center of the white scan board. Notice the use of the green magnet strips—they are placed at the very corners.

Expert Tip on Contrast: The Scan Mat reads the difference between light and dark. A crisp black Sharpie line on white paper scans with 99% accuracy. Pencil sketches or ballpoint pen (low contrast) often result in "broken" lines that won't hold liquid fills later.

The "Gap" Rule: If your drawing has "open" shapes (tiny gaps in the outline), the fill tool will spill color everywhere, like a bucket of water. Ensure your marker lines connect completely.

Warning: Keep fingers, sleeves, and loose tools away from the moving carriage during scanning. The mat moves automatically back and forth with significant torque. A pinch point surprise here can hurt you or strip the machine gears.

Prep Checklist (do this before you remove the embroidery arm)

• Paper Flatness: Drawing is centered; corners secured with magnet strips. It should look as flat as a freshly ironed shirt.
• Line Integrity: Outlines are thick (min 0.5mm) and completely closed (no gaps).
• Clearance Zone: You’ve cleared the machine bed area (remove nippers, bobbins, oil pens) so nothing obstructs the platform movement.
• Hardware Audit: You have a small bowl or tray ready for the thumb screws. DO NOT place them on the machine table—they will roll under the heavy machine.

Swapping Hardware on the Brother PR1055X: Removing Arm A and Installing the Scan Platform Without Losing Screws

This is the part that makes people nervous, but it’s mechanical LEGO blocks.

In the video:

1. Loosen: The standard Embroidery Arm A is removed by loosening the thumb screws.
2. Sensor Install: The small black scanning prism/sensor is slid onto the needle bar area. Listen for a soft click or feel it seat firmly.
3. Platform Install: The wide Scan Mat platform aligns with the square holes. Tighten the screws until finger-tight—do not use pliers.
   
   
   
   
   

Implicit Risk: The most dangerous item here is the black sensor piece.

• The Trap: It blends in with the machine body.
• The Consequence: If you forget to remove it later before stitching, the needle bar can collide with it.
• The Fix: I recommend a small labeled magnetic tray: “PR Scan Mat Parts.” When the sensor comes off, it goes immediately into the tray.

My Design Center on the Brother PR1055X: Pick the Right Scan Mode So the Machine Doesn’t Guess Wrong

On the screen, the host goes into My Design Center and chooses the scan type.

For this project, she selects Line Design (because it’s a black-and-white line drawing).

• Use Line Design for sketches, logos, or clear signatures.
• Use Illustration for color prints (much harder to process cleanly).
  

Then she taps Scan. The machine moves the mat back and forth three times to capture the image.

If you’re using brother pr1055x, this is the moment to freeze. Keep your hands completely off the table. Even a slight vibration (like leaning on the table) can cause the scan lines to look "jittery" or pixelated, forcing you to start over.

Cropping Like a Pro: Use the Red Handles to Remove Magnets From the Frame (and Save Yourself Later)

After scanning, the host crops the image tightly around the drawing using the red arrow handles, specifically to eliminate the magnets from the scanned area.

This is more important than it looks. The machine is literal—it will try to turn the green magnet strips into embroidery stitches if you don't crop them out.

Visual Check:

• Expected outcome: You see only the unicorn drawing in the crop box. No dark corners, no magnet edges, no shadow for the paper edge. Note: If you see "speckles" or "dirt" on the screen, use the Eraser tool now before converting to stitches.

Filling Regions and Assigning Colors: The Paint Bucket Workflow That Makes (or Breaks) Auto-Digitizing

Now the fun part: turning the scan into stitches.

In the video, the host chooses Fill Stitch as the region property, selects a color (she starts with Pink), and uses the paint bucket tool to tap enclosed areas of the drawing to flood-fill them.

She repeats this process with multiple colors and minimizes errors by zooming in heavily (the video shows a zoomed-in view for small mane segments).

Troubleshooting: The "Leaking Paint" Problem

Several viewers struggle here. You tap the unicorn's horn, but the entire background turns pink.

• Cause: There is a microscopic gap in your black line drawing. The digital "paint" leaked out.
• The Fix: Hit Undo immediately. You cannot "plug" the hole in this mode easily. You may need to use the pen tool to close the gap on screen, or rescan a corrected drawing.

Action: Tap the screen firmly with the stylus. If it doesn't fill on the first tap, don't tap harder—zoom in further. Precision beats pressure.

The Stitch Texture Reality Check: Fill vs Stipple Preview Before You Commit

The host briefly demonstrates the difference between stitch textures on-screen (showing stipple versus fill) and then returns to fill.

Why this matters (The Physics of Thread):

• Fill Stitches (Tatami): These are solid rows of stitching. They add structural stability but create "pull"—shrinking the fabric slightly.
• Stippling: This is a meandering run stitch (quilting style). It adds texture without much pull.

Expert Rule of Thumb: If stitching on unstable fabric (like a thin t-shirt) without heavy stabilizer, a dense Fill Stitch will pucker. On the faux leather used in the video, Fill Stitch is acceptable because the material is stiff.

The Point of No Return: Density, Pull Compensation, Underlay—Then “Set” Locks It In

On the settings screen, the host reviews:

• Density: 100% (Sweet spot for standard 40wt thread).
• Pull Compensation: 0.0 mm (Warning: For stretchy knits, bump this to 0.2mm to prevent gaps).
• Underlay: ON (Critical! Never turn this off for fill stitches—it's the foundation).

She also shows the design size and hoop selection:

• Hoop: 100x100mm (4x4)
• Size: 2.43 in (W) x 1.88 in (H)
  

Then she clicks Set.

Crucial Concept: Clicking "Set" converts the image data into stitch data. Once you do this, you cannot go back to the Paint Bucket tool.

• Before Set: You are editing a picture.
• After Set: You are editing a .PES embroidery file.

If you’re researching convert picture to embroidery file, understand the tradeoff: specific digitizing software (like PE-Design or Hatch) gives you control over start/stop points and angles. This My Design Center method is automated—fast, but rigid.

Needle Assignment on the Brother PR1055X: Keep It Simple So You Don’t Create Thread Chaos

After converting to the standard embroidery screen, the host assigns thread colors to needle numbers.

• Pink assigned to needle 8
• White assigned to needle 10
• Deep Rose assigned to needle 5
  

Production Tip: If you own a SEWTECH 10-needle or similar multi-needle machine, try to standardize your needle setup (e.g., Black on 1, White on 10 always). This reduces setup time for every single project you run.

Hooping Faux Leather on a 4x4 Hoop: Stabilizer Choices and How to Avoid Hoop Marks

The video stitches the design on pink sparkle faux leather with tearaway stabilizer, hooped in a standard 4x4 hoop.

The Pain Point: Hoop Burn. Faux leather, vinyl, and velvet have "memory." If you clamp them in a standard plastic hoop (inner ring + outer ring), the pressure crushes the grain. When you unhoop it, that ring mark is often permanent. You just ruined the item.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer + Hooping Strategy

Use this logic to save your materials from the trash bin.

• Scenario A: Testing / Practice (Like the video)
  • Method: Standard Hoop + Tearaway.
  • Risk: High chance of hoop marks. Acceptable for samples.
• Scenario B: Final Product on Faux Leather/Vinyl
  • Method: Floating. Hoop only the adhesive stabilizer (sticky side up). Stick the leather on top. No ring touches the leather surface.
  • Risk: Leather might shift if adhesive isn't strong enough.
• Scenario C: Production Run / Thick Items
  • Method: Magnetic Hoops. These clamp top-and-bottom with magnets, not friction/distortion.
  • Benefit: Zero hoop burn, faster hooping, holds thick material flat.

When terms like magnetic embroidery hoops come up in forums, it’s usually because someone is tired of fighting with thick fabrics in standard plastic hoops.

Warning: High-strength magnetic frames (like Mighty Hoops or SEWTECH Magnetics) are incredibly powerful. Pinch Hazard: Never let the two magnets snap together without fabric in between—they can crush fingers. Medical Safety: Keep them at least 6 inches away from pacemakers.

Reconfigure the Machine for Stitching: Remove the Scan Platform and Sensor (Yes, Every Time)

The host removes the Scan Mat platform and reinstalls the standard embroidery arm. Crucially, she calls out removing the little black sensor piece before embroidering.

Visual Check: Look at the needle bar area. Is it naked metal? Good. If you see black plastic attached, STOP. You must remove the sensor, or the embroidery head may crash into it during the first needle change.

Stitch-Out on Faux Leather: What “Good” Looks Like While the Machine Is Running

Once the hoop is attached, the host locks and starts the stitch-out.

Sensory Diagnostics (What to look/hear for):

1. Sound: You want a rhythmic thump-thump-thump. A sharp click-click often means the needle is dull. A grinding noise means the thread is caught on the spool pin.
2. Tension: Look at the stitches. If the white bobbin thread is pulling up to the top, your top tension is too tight. If the top thread is looping loosely, tension is too low.
3. Needle: For faux leather, use a 75/11 Sharp or Embroidery needle. A Ballpoint needle (for knits) may struggle to pierce vinyl cleanly.

Answers to the Most-Asked Questions From the Comments (Without Guessing Beyond the Video)

A few questions showed up repeatedly in the comments:

• “Can you save this on a USB?” Yes, once you hit "Set" and go to the embroidery screen, you can save it to memory or USB just like any other design.
• “Can you import it into Embrilliance?” Yes. Save it to USB, take the USB to your PC. It is a standard .PES file now.
• “Can you scan a recipe card?” Not easily. The Scan Mat needs closed shapes to fill. Text on a recipe card consists of open lines (mostly). This tool is for shapes/logos, not OCR text recognition.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Feels Natural: When to Stick With Standard Hoops vs Move to Magnetic Frames

If you’re doing one-off fun projects like this unicorn patch, the standard included hoops are perfectly fine.

However, your "Production Trigger" is volume and material difficulty.

• If you are battling "Hoop Burn" on vinyl or velvet...
• If your wrists hurt from tightening screws on 20+ items...
• If you struggle to hoop thick jackets or bags...

This is when magnetic hoops for brother pr1055x transition from a "luxury" to a "necessity." They allow you to slide the fabric in, snap the magnets down, and sew—cutting hooping time by 50%.

If you find yourself turning down orders because "hooping takes too long," that is your signal to upgrade your frames or consider a workhorse machine like a SEWTECH multi-needle to run alongside your Brother.

Setup Checklist (right before you press Start)

• Hardware: Scan Mat platform removed; Embroidery Arm A installed.
• Safety: Black sensor prism removed from the needle bar.
• Hoop: Correct hoop attached (4x4 in video); verify the arm isn't going to hit the hoop edges (use the "Trace" button).
• Needles: Colors assigned correctly (Pink=8, White=10, Rose=5). Needle type is appropriate for Faux Leather (75/11).
• Bobbin: Full bobbin installed (don't start a dense fill on a low bobbin).

Operation Checklist (while it’s stitching)

• First 100 Stitches: Watch the thread tail. Did it catch? Trim it if it’s long.
• Flow: Ensure the faux leather isn't "flagging" (bouncing up and down). If it is, the hoop is too loose.
• Sound: Listen for the smooth rhythm. Pause immediately if you hear a "clunk."
• Completion: Before un-hooping, check for any missed stitches. You can back up and repair before you remove the hoop. Once the hoop is off, you can never realign it perfectly.

If you’re building a repeatable workflow around My Design Center embroidery, consistency is key. Document your settings (example: "Faux Leather: Density 100%, Underlay ON, 75/11 Needle") so your next project is a success on stitch #1.

FAQ

• Q: How do I prepare a paper drawing for the Brother PR1055X Scan Mat so My Design Center scans clean lines?
  A: Use high-contrast, fully closed shapes on perfectly flat paper before scanning.
  • Draw: Use a crisp black marker (not light pencil/ballpoint) on white paper.
  • Close: Connect every outline with no tiny gaps before scanning.
  • Secure: Place the paper centered and pin the corners down with the magnet strips so it stays flat.
  • Success check: The scan preview shows continuous, unbroken outlines with no “broken” or fuzzy segments.
  • If it still fails: Redraw with thicker lines (minimum about 0.5 mm) and rescan with the paper flatter and more secure.
• Q: How do I safely install the Brother PR1055X Scan Mat platform and scanning sensor without losing screws or damaging parts?
  A: Swap parts in a controlled order and immediately store the thumb screws and the black sensor piece in a dedicated tray.
  • Prepare: Clear the machine bed (remove nippers, bobbins, oil pens) so nothing blocks the platform travel.
  • Store: Put thumb screws straight into a small bowl/tray as soon as they come out (don’t set them on the table).
  • Seat: Slide the black scanning prism/sensor onto the needle bar area and confirm it “clicks” or seats firmly.
  • Success check: The Scan Mat platform aligns cleanly with the square holes and screws tighten finger-tight without forcing.
  • If it still fails: Stop and realign the platform—do not use pliers; re-check that the sensor is fully seated.
• Q: Why does the Brother PR1055X My Design Center “paint bucket” fill leak and turn the whole background pink during Line Design filling?
  A: A tiny gap in the outline is letting the fill spill out, so undo immediately and close the gap before filling again.
  • Undo: Tap Undo right away to prevent compounding mistakes.
  • Inspect: Zoom in heavily around the region boundary to find microscopic openings.
  • Repair: Close the gap on-screen with drawing tools or rescan a corrected drawing with fully closed outlines.
  • Success check: One tap fills only the intended enclosed region (not the surrounding background).
  • If it still fails: Re-scan using thicker, darker outlines and re-crop tightly to exclude shadows and paper edges.
• Q: How do I crop correctly on the Brother PR1055X Scan Mat so the machine does not digitize the green magnet strips into stitches?
  A: Crop tightly using the red handles until only the drawing is inside the crop box—no magnets, corners, or shadows.
  • Crop: Drag the red handles to frame only the artwork and exclude all magnet-strip areas.
  • Clean: Use the Eraser tool to remove any “speckles” or dirt before converting to stitches.
  • Verify: Check the crop box edges for dark corners, paper-edge shadows, or magnet edges.
  • Success check: The preview shows only the intended drawing with clean margins and no corner artifacts.
  • If it still fails: Reposition the paper flatter and re-scan to reduce shadows, then crop again.
• Q: What should be checked on the Brother PR1055X before pressing “Set” in My Design Center to avoid getting stuck with the wrong stitch result?
  A: Confirm texture and key settings first, because “Set” converts image edits into a locked stitch file.
  • Preview: Compare stitch textures on-screen (fill vs stippling) and choose the one that matches the material.
  • Confirm: Keep Underlay ON for fill stitches; use Density 100% and Pull Compensation 0.0 mm as shown.
  • Adjust: If stitching stretchy knits, bump Pull Compensation to about 0.2 mm as a safe starting point (then follow the machine manual).
  • Success check: The preview looks structurally appropriate (no overly dense fill planned on unstable fabric).
  • If it still fails: Re-enter My Design Center before pressing Set and correct regions/settings; after Set, changes are limited to stitch editing.
• Q: How do I avoid permanent hoop burn on faux leather or vinyl when embroidering a patch on the Brother PR1055X 4x4 hoop?
  A: Do not clamp faux leather directly in a standard hoop for final goods—float it or use a magnetic hoop to prevent crush marks.
  • Decide: Use standard hoop + tearaway only for testing where marks are acceptable.
  • Float: Hoop adhesive stabilizer only (sticky side up) and stick the faux leather on top so no ring touches the surface.
  • Upgrade: Use a magnetic hoop for thick or production items to hold material flat without friction distortion.
  • Success check: After unhooping, no visible ring imprint is left on the faux leather grain.
  • If it still fails: Increase surface hold (stronger adhesive stabilizer) or move to a magnetic frame to reduce shifting and pressure marks.
• Q: What safety checks are required on the Brother PR1055X after scanning to prevent a needle bar collision and magnetic frame pinch injuries?
  A: Remove the Scan Mat platform and the black scanning sensor every time before stitching, and handle magnetic hoops as a pinch hazard.
  • Confirm: Reinstall Embroidery Arm A and visually check the needle bar area is “naked metal” (no black sensor attached).
  • Stop: If any black plastic sensor remains on the needle bar area, do not start—remove it before the first needle change.
  • Handle: Keep fingers clear when closing magnetic hoops and never let magnets snap together without fabric between them.
  • Success check: The machine traces and stitches without clunks, crashes, or sudden stops during needle changes.
  • If it still fails: Power down and re-check all swapped parts and clearances before restarting; keep strong magnets away from pacemakers (minimum 6 inches).