Stop Fighting .ZIPP Files: A Calm, Foolproof Windows 10 Workflow for Embroidery Designs (Plus the Folder-View Trick You’ll Use Forever)

Machine embroidery is supposed to feel creative—not like you’re wrestling your computer at midnight because a file “won’t open.” If you’ve ever downloaded a design from a Facebook group and ended up with a weird .ZIPP file that shows as a blank white icon, take a breath. Nothing is “broken.” Your PC just doesn’t recognize what Facebook had to do to the file.

This post rebuilds the exact workflow from Sue at OML Embroidery (Windows 10), then adds the veteran-level guardrails that keep your design library clean and your transfers reliable—especially if you’re building a serious collection for a brother embroidery machine.

Why Facebook Turns Embroidery ZIPs into .ZIPP (and Why Your PC Acts Like It’s Never Seen It)

Facebook groups often share embroidery designs as compressed folders. The catch (as Sue explains) is that Facebook doesn’t allow standard .zip uploads in the usual way, so the file gets posted with a .zipp extension instead.

On Windows 10, that extra “p” is enough to make File Explorer shrug—so the download appears as a generic white page icon, and double-clicking won’t behave like a normal zip.

What this means in real life:

• The design is usually fine.
• You don’t need special “unzip software” for this specific fix.
• You do need to rename the extension so Windows can treat it like a zip.

Expert Insight: Think of this like a misspelled address on an envelope. The letter inside is perfect; the mailman (Windows) just needs you to fix the label to deliver it.

The “Download Button” Habit: Grab the Facebook File the Way It’s Meant to Be Grabbed

Sue’s first tip is deceptively important: in the Facebook file list, click Download (not “See original post”) so the file actually downloads to your computer.

Sensory Check: You should see a file appear in your browser’s download bar or your Downloads folder. If you don't see a confirmation animation or progress bar, you likely haven't actually downloaded the file yet.

Prep Checklist (before you touch the file)

• Status Check: Confirm the file finished downloading (ensure it's not “0 KB” or showing a "crdownload" partial extension).
• Location Check: Know where it landed (usually Downloads).
• Software Check: Close any embroidery software that might try to "auto-grab" the file while you’re renaming it.
• Root Folder Check: Have a specific folder ready (e.g., Documents > Embroidery > To Be Sorted). Leaving files in "Downloads" is the #1 cause of lost designs.

That last bullet is the difference between “I downloaded it” and “I can find it next month.”

The One-Letter Fix: Rename .ZIPP to .ZIP Without Breaking Anything

Open File Explorer and go to your Downloads folder (Sue uses “This PC” / Quick Access to get there).

You’ll likely see the downloaded file with a blank white icon—because Windows doesn’t recognize .zipp.

Here’s Sue’s exact method:

1. Right-click the file.
2. Click Rename.
3. Go to the end of the filename.
4. Backspace once to remove the extra “p” so it becomes .zip.
5. Press Enter.
6. When Windows warns you with a chime that changing an extension might make the file unusable, click Yes.

Expected outcome: The icon changes instantly from a white page to a zipped-folder icon. It should look like a folder with a zipper on it.

Warning: Only change the extension when you’re confident it’s the Facebook-style “.zipp” situation Sue describes. Randomly changing extensions on unknown files (like changing .PES to .JEF) will corrupt the data. If you didn’t download it from a trusted embroidery source, don’t force it open.

Pro tip from the trenches (to avoid the classic beginner panic):

• If you accidentally delete the whole extension (not just the extra “p”), type it back as .zip and press Enter.
• If Windows doesn’t show extensions at all, you may only see the name (not “.zipp”). In that case, go to "View" and check "File name extensions" before renaming. Blindly renaming can create a messy file like design.zip.zip.
  

The Cookie-Jar Moment: Opening a ZIP Isn’t the Same as Extracting It

Sue uses a perfect analogy: a zip is like a jar of cookies. You can see what’s inside through the glass, but you can’t eat the cookie until you open the lid.

After renaming, you can double-click the zip and view the contents—but you still need to extract.

This is where many embroiderers get stuck. They try to send the file to the machine from inside the zip, and the machine rejects it. You must take the files out of the compressed folder first.

“Extract All” Done Right: Make the Files Usable (and Keep Your Library Clean)

Sue’s steps:

1. Select the zip file.
2. Click Extract All (usually in the top ribbon or right-click menu).
3. Confirm where you want the extracted folder to go.
4. Click Extract.

Expected outcome: A new, unzipped folder opens automatically. This folder contains the actual design files (PES, DST, EXP, etc.) ready for use.

Watch out: the “Replace files?” prompt

Sue mentions seeing a replace prompt because she had already extracted before. If you extract into the same location repeatedly, Windows may ask to overwrite files.

Housekeeping Rule: Create a new folder for each project or designer. Overwriting can cause you to lose specific size edits you might have made to previous versions.

The Payoff: Seeing Real Design Icons (and Why Some People Only See an “e” Browser Icon)

Once extracted, Sue shows that the designs display with icons/thumbnails—so you can visually identify them.

A common frustration is: “My downloads show an ‘e’ icon (Internet Explorer/Edge)—how do I get the design to show?” Sue’s reply is blunt and true: you generally need some type of embroidery software installed to generate previews.

Expert Explanation:

• Extraction makes the files usable by the machine.
• Thumbnail previews on your PC depend on installed software (like PE-Design, Embrilliance, or a thumbnail plugin).
• Even if the icon looks like a generic paper sheet or an internet browser logo, the file is likely valid. Check the extension (e.g., .PES) rather than relying solely on the icon.
  

USB Transfer Without Tears: Drag-and-Drop the Extracted Folder to Your USB Drive

Sue’s method is simple and reliable. Do not overcomplicate this with "Save As" menus.

1. Plug in your USB flash drive. Listen for the Windows "ba-dum" connection sound.
2. In File Explorer, look under This PC for the new drive letter (Sue sees USB Drive (G:), but yours may be E:, F:, etc.).
3. Go back to your extracted design folder.
4. Left-click, hold, and drag the extracted folder onto the USB drive in the left navigation pane.
5. Release when you see the “Copy to USB Drive” tooltip.

Expected outcome: A progress bar appears briefly. Once it vanishes, the files are on the stick.

Setup Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Safety Check)

• Format Match: Ensure the USB drive is formatted to FAT32 (most machines require this). If the machine doesn't read the stick, this is usually the culprit.
• File Limit: Don't put 500 designs in one folder. Most machine computers process slowly. Keep it to <50 files per folder.
• Consumable Check: Do you have the right stabilizer? (e.g., Cutaway for knits, Tearaway for woven).
• Needle Check: Is your needle fresh? A dull needle is the #1 cause of shredding thread, regardless of how perfect the specific file is.
  

Direct-to-Machine Transfer: Brother Dream Machine 2 as a Drive Letter (It’s Not Magic—It’s USB)

One commenter asked whether the machine is wireless. In Sue’s demo, she plugs her Brother Dream Machine 2 directly into the computer.

Sue’s steps:

1. Connect the machine to the computer via a USB cable.
2. Turn the machine on.
3. Listen for the computer’s recognition sound.
4. In File Explorer, a new drive letter appears (Sue sees USB Drive (N:)).
5. Drag-and-drop the design folder onto that machine drive letter.

Expected outcome: The design appears on your machine's screen instantly.

Warning: Machine Safety First. Keep fingers, loose hair, and jewelry away from the take-up lever and needle bar when the machine is powered on. Never place scissors, snips, or unmounted hoops on the machine bed—vibration can cause them to slide under the needle arm, causing catastrophic mechanical binding.

The “Large Icons Everywhere” Trick: Make Windows 10 Show Embroidery Thumbnails by Default

This is a massive quality-of-life improvement. Instead of reading filenames, you see the art.

Sue demonstrates:

1. In File Explorer, click the View tab.
2. Choose Large icons. (Tip: Extra Large can lag your PC if you have hundreds of designs).
3. Click Options (right side of the ribbon).
4. Go to the View tab in the pop-up window.
5. Click Apply to Folders.
6. Confirm Yes, then click OK.

Expected outcome: Every folder you open with embroidery designs will now default to this visual view, saving you thousands of clicks per year.

Should You Keep the Zipped Folder After Extracting? Here’s the Clean Answer

A viewer asked the question every organized embroiderer eventually asks: do I keep the zip?

Sue doesn’t answer directly, so here is the Standard Operating Procedure (SOP) from a production perspective:

• Storage-Constrained? Delete the zip only after you have confirmed the extracted file stitches correctly.
• Safety-First (Recommended): Move the zip to a dedicated Archive/Backup folder on an external hard drive. This is your "Digital Master" in case files get corrupted later.
  

Decision Tree: Pick the Right Transfer Workflow (USB Stick vs Direct-to-Machine)

Use this logic to decide how to move designs. Don't guess.

• Are you physically next to the machine?
  • Yes → Connect cable. Use Direct Transfer. (Fastest for quick tests).
  • No → Use USB Stick. (Safer, no tripping over cables).
• Is your design complex (50,000+ stitches)?
  • Yes → USB Stick. Direct cables can sometimes time-out during large data transfers, causing corrupt files.
  • No → Direct Transfer is fine.
• Are you transferring to multiple machines?
  • Yes → USB Stick. Walk the stick from machine to machine.
    

The Upgrade Path: When File Management Is Solved, Your Next Bottleneck Is Physical

You have mastered the .ZIPP fix, your folders are organized, and your transfer is smooth. Now, you will likely hit the next wall: Physical Workflow Friction.

You spend 30 seconds transferring the file, but 5 minutes fighting with hoops to get the fabric straight. This is where hobbyists struggle and professionals upgrade tools.

Here represents the "Pain -> Solution" cycle:

1. The Trigger: You are doing a run of 10 towels or T-shirts. Your wrists hurt from tightening screws, or you are getting "hoop burn" (permanent rings) on delicate fabrics.
2. The Criteria: If you are spending more time hooping than stitching, or if slip-ups are ruining 1 in 10 garments, manual hooping is costing you profit.
3. The Solution:
   • Level 1 (Technique): Use a hooping station for machine embroidery to standardize placement.
   • Level 2 (Tool): Switch to a magnetic hoop for brother dream machine (or your specific brand). Magnetic hoops hold fabric firmly without the "screw-tightening" distortion. They are essential for continuous production.
   • Note: Professionals searching for a hoop master embroidery hooping station are usually trying to solve this exact alignment bottleneck.

Speed Tip: If you upgrade to magnetic hoops, you can often run your machine safely in the 600-800 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) range—the "Sweet Spot" for quality—without worrying about fabric slippage that occurs in loose traditional hoops.

Warning: Magnetic Hazard. Magnetic embroidery hoops use industrial-strength magnets (Neodymium). They can pinch fingers severely (blood blister risk). Crucial: Keep them away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and credit cards. Do not let two magnetic frames snap together without a separator layer.

Operation Checklist (The "No More Hot Under the Collar" Routine)

• File Prep: Renamed .zipp to .zip and confirmed icon change.
• Extraction: Used Extract All (never stitch from inside a zip).
• Transfer: Verified file size on the machine screen matches the PC screen (prevents "corrupt header" errors).
• Test Stitch: Ran a test on scrap fabric at 500 SPM. Listen for a rhythmic "thump-thump" (good) vs. a clanking metal sound (bad/needle hit).
• Consumables: Have spray adhesive or a water-soluble pen nearby for marking placement before hooping.

Finally, if you find yourself constantly waiting for color changes on a single-needle machine, this is the sign that your volume has outgrown your hardware. This is when shifting to a multi-needle platform (like SEWTECH solutions or similar industrial setups) becomes a business decision, not just a hobby upgrade.

FAQ

• Q: How do you open a Facebook embroidery download that shows as a .ZIPP file on Windows 10?
  A: Rename the file extension from .zipp to .zip so Windows can recognize it—your design is usually not damaged.
  • Open File Explorer and go to the Downloads folder where the file landed.
  • Enable extensions if needed: View → check “File name extensions,” then right-click → Rename.
  • Backspace once to remove the extra “p” (.zipp → .zip) and press Enter, then click Yes on the warning.
  • Success check: the icon changes from a blank white page to a zipped-folder icon immediately.
  • If it still fails: re-download using Facebook’s Download button (not “See original post”) and confirm the file is not 0 KB or a partial download.
• Q: How do you extract embroidery files correctly after renaming a Facebook .ZIPP file to .ZIP on Windows 10?
  A: Use “Extract All” and work from the unzipped folder—do not try to stitch or transfer from inside the zip.
  • Select the .zip file and click “Extract All” (or right-click → Extract All).
  • Choose a clear destination folder (avoid leaving everything in Downloads), then click Extract.
  • Open the newly created unzipped folder and locate the actual design files (PES/DST/EXP, etc.).
  • Success check: a new folder opens with usable design files visible outside the zipped container.
  • If it still fails: do not overwrite existing files—extract into a new folder to avoid “Replace files?” confusion.
• Q: Why do extracted embroidery design files show an “e” browser icon instead of a design thumbnail on Windows 10?
  A: The file can still be valid—thumbnail previews usually require embroidery software or a thumbnail plugin to be installed.
  • Check the file extension (for example, .PES) instead of trusting the icon.
  • Confirm the design was extracted (the file should not still be sitting inside the zip).
  • Switch File Explorer to Large icons to make previews show when supported (View → Large icons).
  • Success check: the file extension matches the machine format you expect, even if the icon stays generic.
  • If it still fails: install compatible embroidery software that generates previews, or focus on transferring by extension/filename rather than thumbnails.
• Q: What is the safest USB transfer method for embroidery designs on Windows 10 to a Brother Dream Machine 2 using a USB flash drive?
  A: Drag-and-drop the extracted folder to the USB drive, and keep folders small for faster machine browsing.
  • Plug in the USB stick and find its drive letter under “This PC.”
  • Drag the extracted design folder onto the USB drive (do not transfer the zipped file).
  • Keep fewer than about 50 files per folder to reduce machine slowdowns.
  • Success check: a Windows copy progress bar appears and disappears, and the folder is visible on the USB drive.
  • If it still fails: check whether the USB stick is formatted FAT32, since many embroidery machines will not read other formats.
• Q: How do you transfer embroidery designs directly from a Windows 10 PC to a Brother Dream Machine 2 that appears as a drive letter?
  A: Connect the machine by USB cable and drag-and-drop designs to the machine’s drive letter like a normal USB device.
  • Connect the USB cable, power on the Brother Dream Machine 2, and wait for the Windows recognition sound.
  • Open File Explorer and locate the new drive letter that appears for the machine.
  • Drag-and-drop the extracted design folder onto that machine drive.
  • Success check: the design shows up on the machine screen right after the copy completes.
  • If it still fails: use the USB flash drive method for large/complex designs, since direct transfers may time-out and create corrupt files.
• Q: What machine-safety rules should be followed when transferring designs to a Brother Dream Machine 2 while the machine is powered on?
  A: Treat the powered machine like active equipment—keep hands and loose items away from moving parts and never leave tools on the bed.
  • Keep fingers, loose hair, and jewelry away from the take-up lever and needle area while the machine is on.
  • Remove scissors, snips, and unmounted hoops from the machine bed so vibration cannot slide them under the needle arm.
  • Perform transfers with a clear work area and stable cable routing to prevent snagging.
  • Success check: nothing on the bed can shift, and the needle area is unobstructed before any motion starts.
  • If it still fails: power down before reorganizing the work area if anything feels cramped or unsafe.
• Q: What are the safety risks of using magnetic embroidery hoops (Neodymium magnetic frames) for production hooping?
  A: Magnetic hoops can pinch hard and can interfere with medical devices—handle them slowly and keep them controlled.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and sensitive items like credit cards.
  • Separate frames carefully and do not let two magnetic frames snap together without a separator layer.
  • Position fabric with hands clear of the pinch zone before letting magnets close.
  • Success check: magnets close without a “snap,” and no fingers are anywhere near the joining edges.
  • If it still fails: slow the handling process and use a deliberate separation method to prevent blood-blister pinches.
• Q: If hooping is taking longer than stitching and hoop burn is ruining garments, what is the step-by-step upgrade path for machine embroidery workflow?
  A: Start with technique, then upgrade tools, then upgrade capacity—only move up a level when the bottleneck is clearly identified.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Standardize placement with a hooping station and reduce re-hooping mistakes.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Switch to magnetic hoops to reduce screw-tightening distortion and speed up repeat hooping.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Move to a multi-needle setup when single-needle color-change downtime becomes the main limiter.
  • Success check: hooping time drops and scrap rate improves (fewer than 1 in 10 garments getting ruined is a practical benchmark from the blog’s scenario).
  • If it still fails: run a controlled test stitch on scrap at 500 SPM and confirm the rhythm sounds smooth (“thump-thump”) rather than clanking before scaling production.