Split-Design Success on the Brother Persona PRS100: Dial In a Durkee 8x14 Frame, Nail the 180° Flip, and Make Part B Land Perfectly

If you have ever watched a split design stitch beautifully for the first half… and then felt your stomach drop when the second half lands a mile away, you are not alone. Split-hoop embroidery is one of those “looks easy on video” techniques that ruthlessly punishes tiny setup mistakes.

In this workflow, you are using a large Durkee 8" x 14" frame on a Brother Persona PRS100, splitting the design in PE-DESIGN 11, stitching Part A, physically rotating the entire frame 180°, and then aligning Part B using the machine’s LED drop light and a needle-drop test. When it works, it feels like magic. When it fails, it is usually due to one of three specific physical variables.

The Calm-Down Check: What a Split Design on the Brother Persona PRS100 Is *Supposed* to Do

Before we panic, let’s dismantle the mystery. A split design is not “two separate designs you eyeball together.” It is a coordinate system. The software outputs two mathematically coordinated segments (Part A and Part B), and the machine workflow relies on four rigid assumptions:

1. You stitch the first segment (file usually ending in Aa).
2. You remove the frame from the machine without removing the fabric from the frame.
3. You rotate the entire frame 180 degrees.
4. You load the second segment (file ending in Ba), rotate the on-screen design 180 degrees (90° x 2), and align the LED dot to the tie-off knot from the first segment’s alignment stitch.

If any one of those assumptions breaks—wrong page setup, wrong physical rotation, wrong starting point, or fabric shifting on the sticky backing—Part B will not land correctly. It is a chain of custody; if the chain breaks, the design fails.

Compatibility Reality Check: The Durkee/Brother SASTURDY8X14 8"x14" hoop discussed here is explicitly stated as compatible with the Brother Persona PRS100. It is generally not broadly interchangeable across other 6-needle or 10-needle Brother/Baby Lock models without verifying the specific arm attachment width. If you are trying to replicate this on a different machine (like a PR1055X or Baby Lock Alliance), treat this workflow as a concept demo, not a guaranteed button-for-button match.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do First: Stabilizer Cut, Frame Inspection, and Why Sticky Backing Matters

Before you touch the software, you must perform the physical preparation that prevents 90% of alignment heartbreak.

Cut the stabilizer to the size used in the workflow

The workflow specifies cutting adhesive tear-away backing to approximately 17.25" x 11". Do not try to save money by cutting this smaller. You need full coverage across the back of the metal frame to ensure the adhesive grip is uniform.

Inspect the frame and your handling plan

Large metal frames are unforgiving. From a physics standpoint, what you are fighting is shear movement: the fabric wants to slide relative to the stabilizer when you lift, rotate, and reinsert the frame. Sticky stabilizer reduces that slip, but only if you press it down evenly and keep the edges secure.

Sensory Check: When you touch the sticky stabilizer, it should feel tacky, like a strong Post-it note, but not "gummy" or wet. If it feels weak or has lint on it, discard it and cut a new piece. The friction of this stabilizer is the only thing holding your registration true.

If you are doing this kind of work often, a dedicated surface or a hooping station for machine embroidery can significantly reduce handling errors. By pressing the fabric down flat and consistently rather than "floating" it in midair, you ensure the fabric tension is even across the X and Y axes, which is critical for split designs.

Warning: Needle Safety. Keep fingers, loose sleeves, and tools away from the needle area during needle-drop testing and stitching. A needle drop is a controlled motion, but it is still a sharp, moving point driven by a servo motor. Treat it like a live weapon at all times.

Prep Checklist (Complete this BEFORE opening software):

• Frame Verification: Confirm you have the SASTURDY8X14 (or equivalent) correct frame for the PRS100.
• Stabilizer: Cut adhesive tear-away backing to exactly 17.25" x 11".
• Workspace: ensure a clean, flat work surface so the sticky stabilizer doesn’t pick up lint or dust.
• Consumables: Fresh needle installed (Size 75/11 is a good safe standard for wovens), and full bobbin.
• Data Transfer: Have a formatted USB flash drive ready.

PE-DESIGN 11 Custom Size Setup: The Exact Numbers That Make the Split Preview Appear

This is the technical part where precision is non-negotiable. This is where the geometric logic of the split is defined.

1. Metric Conversion: If your system unit is set to inches, click the “in” on the page ruler to switch to mm. Split calculations are cleaner in metric.
2. Click the Application icon (flower) and choose Design Settings.
3. Select the Multi-needle machine icon (looks like a machine head).
4. Place a dot in front of Custom Size.
5. Enter Width: 190 mm.
6. Enter Height: 370 mm.
7. In the Section Size for Hoop menu, choose 190 x 190 mm (100 x 100 mm).

The "Make or Break" Move: That last selection (Section Size) is critical. It tells the software, "I have a hoop this big, but my distinct stitching field is only this big." This creates the invisible boundary line that splits the design. Once set, you should see the red split-hoop preview lines appear on your canvas.

If you are researching brother persona prs100 hoops for oversized work, this configuration is the key takeaway: the machine has the physical clearance to stitch large results, but the software serves as the brain that breaks the image into digestible, coordinated segments.

Import, Split, and Export: Getting the “Finished Outputting Data” Message Before You Leave the Computer

Once the design page is configured, the export process is automated, but verify every step.

1. In the Integrated Sewing Attributes window, click the Import tab.
2. Import the design you wish to use. Ensure it stays within the printable area defined by the red lines.  
3. Make any adjustments (scaling, rotating) now. Do not adjust the size on the machine later.
4. Press Send → Send to USB Media.
5. Select your USB drive.
6. Visual Confirmation: Wait for the specific success message: “Finished outputting data.”
7. Click OK, safely eject the USB flash drive (do not just yank it out), and take it to the machine.

You will notice two files on your USB drive (ending in Aa and Ba). This confirms the split logic worked.

Sticky Stabilizer on a Durkee 8x14 Frame: The Clean, Flat Application That Prevents Drift

Hooping for a split design is not the time for "close enough." Your alignment later depends on the fabric staying exactly where it was when Part A stitched.

1. Place the metal Durkee frame face down on a hard surface.
2. Peel the release paper from the adhesive tear-away stabilizer.
3. Slowly adhere the stabilizer to the back of the frame (the side that touches the machine bed).
4. Tactile Step: Smooth it from the center out to the edges. Ensure there are no air bubbles.
5. Flip the frame right side up (sticky side exposed through the window).
6. Secure your project fabric onto the sticky surface inside the frame area.

Expert Note on Tension: A common novice mistake is stretching the fabric onto the sticky backing. Do not stretch. Woven fabric (like the white material shown in the source video) is stable, but if you pull it tight like a drum skin, it will relax and retract the moment the needle perforates it, causing registration errors. Press it down flat, neutral, and relaxed.

Tubular Frame Table Installation on the Brother Persona PRS100: The Click You Don’t Want to Miss

To support the heavy frame and prevent the weight of the fabric from dragging the hoop, Brother recommends using the tubular frame table.

1. Slide the tubular support onto the tubular arm of the machine.
2. Auditory Check: Push until you hear a sharp "Click". If you don't hear the click, it isn't seated, and your X-axis movement will be obstructed.
3. Gently pull from the front to extend the tubular support wings.
4. Insert the Durkee frame into the embroidery arm.

Setup Checklist (Before you stitch Part A):

• Table: Tubular frame table installed and verified with a "Click."
• Clearance: Frame moves freely without hitting the table or machine bed (check by hand gently).
• File: USB reading correctly, files Aa and Ba are visible.
• Speed: Set your machine speed to a "safe zone" (e.g., 600-700 SPM). Splits require precision; running at 1000 SPM increases vibration and the chance of slight shifts.

Stitching Segment “Aa” Without Regret: The Center-Up Hard Stop That Sets Your Baseline

On the machine console:

1. Touch USB.
2. Touch the thumbnail of the complete pattern.
3. Touch Side A (Aa).
4. Touch Set.
5. The Hard Stop: Press the Center Up arrow (usually the top 8 arrow in the move menu) until the design will not move any further. This sets your "0,0" reference point at the hard physical limit of the hoop.
6. Thread the machine and embroider the first half of the design.

Why the Hard Stop matters: In split workflows, you need a fixed constant. By forcing the design to the limit, you remove the variable of "did I center it perfectly?"

The 180° Flip Rule for the Durkee Frame: Rotate the Whole Frame, Not the Fabric

After the first half has finished embroidering:

1. Touch OK to prepare for the next segment.
2. Remove the hoop/frame complex from the machine arm.
3. Physical Action: Rotate the entire frame 180 degrees so the unstitched fabric area now faces the machine.
4. Reinsert the frame into the embroidery arm.

Avoid the Fatal Error: Do not un-stick the fabric. Do not lift the fabric. Do not re-hoop. If you peel the fabric up, you have lost your coordinate system and the project is effectively ruined.

If you find yourself wrestling with frames or struggling to keep the fabric secure during this rotation, you might be encountering the limitations of standard clamping systems. For advanced users or those doing production runs, investigating a compatible magnetic embroidery frame can offer a significant workflow upgrade. Magnetic systems often hold tension with less distortion and are easier to rotate without jarring the fabric.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you choose to upgrade to magnetic hoops, be aware they are powerful. Keep them away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices. Keep fingers clear of the "snap zone" when closing the frame to avoid painful pinches.

The Alignment Moment: LED Drop Light + Bottom-Right Starting Point + Needle-Drop Test

Now you must tell the machine that the world has flipped upside down.

1. Touch the design Ba (the second half).
2. Touch Set → Embroidery.
3. Touch Rotate.
4. Rotate 90 degrees two times. (Total 180 degrees). The preview should look upside down relative to how it started.
5. Touch the Starting Point Position key (usually a grid icon).
6. Choose the Bottom Right point.
7. Touch OK.

The Alignment Protocol:

1. Use the directional arrows to move the pantograph until the red LED drop light is consistently hovering directly over the tie-off knot (the small distinct bump) at the end of the alignment stitch from Part A.

Verify with the needle-drop test before you commit

The LED light is a guide, but it is not the truth. The needle is the truth.

• Press the Lock key (to unlock the mechanism) and then the Scissors key (or Needle Down/Up execution key depending on firmware) to physically drop the needle.
• Visual Check: The tip of the needle should land exactly inside that tie-off knot.

If it is slightly off (even by 1mm):

• Press the Forward/Back stitch key.
• Press 0 to ensure you are at the start.
• Nudge with the arrows.
• Perform the Lock + Scissors drop test again.

Once aligned:

• Press Lock, then Start.

Operation Checklist (Right before you stitch Part B):

• Physical Rotation: Frame rotated 180° physically.
• Digital Rotation: Design Ba rotated 180° (90° x 2) on screen.
• Ref Point: Starting point set to Bottom Right.
• Target: LED dot centered on the tie-off knot of Part A.
• Verification: Needle-drop test confirmed the exact landing spot.

When the Split Won’t Line Up: The Real Causes Behind “It’s 2 Inches Off”

A recurring issue for beginners is finding that Part B is miles away from Part A. Here is a diagnostic breakdown.

Troublesshooting: Split Design Misalignment

Fabric Reality Check: Would This Work on a Sweater?

The video demonstrates this technique on white woven fabric (likely cotton or poly-cotton blend) with adhesive tear-away backing. This is a "Best Case Scenario."

Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Hoop Strategy

• Scenario A: Flat Woven Fabric (Aprons, heavy canvas)
  • Method: Adhesive Tear-Away (as shown).
  • Risk: Low. Fabric is stable.
• Scenario B: Stretchy Knits (Polos, T-shirts)
  • Method: Cutaway Stabilizer is mandatory. Use spray adhesive (like 505 spray) to fix the fabric to the stabilizer.
  • Risk: High. Knits stretch when hooped.
  • Recommendation: Do not pull tight. "Float" the material. If possible, avoid split designs on high-stretch items until you have mastered the technique on wovens.
• Scenario C: Bulky Items (Jackets, Sweaters)
  • Method: Heavy Cutaway + Basting Box.
  • Upgrade: This is where durkee magnetic hoops shine. The magnetic force clamps thick material without the "pop-out" risk of traditional inner/outer rings, keeping the embroidery field flat and reducing registration errors during the 180-degree flip.

Clean Finish: Removing Basting Stitches Without Disturbing the Embroidery

When the design is finished:

1. Press Cancel to return to the home screen.
2. Remove the hoop from the machine.
3. Gentle Touch: Use tweezers or a seam ripper to lift the basting stitches. Do not yank; you don't want to distort the seam you just worked so hard to align.
4. Remove the project from the hoop and tear away the stabilizer.

The Upgrade Path: Moving From "Possible" to "Profitable"

If you only do an oversized split design once a year for a personal gift, the workflow above is perfect. It is slow, methodical, and accurate.

However, if you are doing this weekly for customers—stitching team names across jacket backs or large logos on hoodies—you will quickly find that handling time is your enemy.

• The Fatigue Factor: wrestling with sticky stabilizer and metal frames creates wrist strain.
• The Error Rate: Every manual rotation is a chance for the liquid fabric to shift.

Level 1 Upgrade: The Magnetic Hoop If you find yourself dreading the "hooping" part of the process, looking into terms like magnetic embroidery hoop is your next logical research step. By clamping the fabric magnetically, you reduce the physical force needed to secure the item, which often reduces "hoop burn" (the ring mark left on fabric) and makes the 180-degree rotation safer for the alignment.

Level 2 Upgrade: The Multi-Needle Solution If your volume has grown to the point where re-threading a single needle is costing you profit, or if split designs are slowing down your production line, it may be time to look at dedicated multi-needle platforms. Brands like SEWTECH offer machines and accessories designed to scale with your ambition, turning the "magic trick" of split embroidery into a standard, boring (and profitable) daily operation.

Final Reality Check

The perfect split is built on one habit: Trust the Needle, Not the Eye. Align your LED dot to the tie-off knot, but always confirm with a physical needle drop. If the needle lands in the knot, the machine will do the rest.

FAQ

• Q: Why does Part B land about 2 inches away when stitching a split design on a Brother Persona PRS100 using PE-DESIGN 11 and a Durkee/SASTURDY8X14 8" x 14" frame?
  A: This is almost always a PE-DESIGN 11 setup mismatch or skipping the PRS100 “Center Up” hard-stop baseline, and it usually cannot be corrected at the machine.
  • Recheck PE-DESIGN 11 Design Settings: Width 190 mm, Height 370 mm, and Section Size 190 x 190 mm.
  • Re-export to USB and confirm you see two files ending in Aa and Ba.
  • Restitch Part A and, on the PRS100, press Center Up until the design will not move further before stitching Aa.
  • Success check: the split preview lines appear in PE-DESIGN 11, and the USB shows both Aa/Ba files before you leave the computer.
  • If it still fails: restart the file from PE-DESIGN 11 (do not try to “scale/adjust” on the machine after exporting).
• Q: What exact PE-DESIGN 11 custom size numbers are required to make the split preview appear for a Brother Persona PRS100 split-hoop workflow?
  A: Use PE-DESIGN 11 Custom Size 190 mm (W) x 370 mm (H) and set Section Size for Hoop to 190 x 190 mm to force the split boundary to appear.
  • Switch the ruler to mm before entering values.
  • Select Custom Size, then enter 190 width and 370 height.
  • Set Section Size for Hoop to 190 x 190 mm (this is the make-or-break setting).
  • Success check: red split-hoop preview lines appear on the canvas after the Section Size is selected.
  • If it still fails: re-open Design Settings and confirm the Section Size did not revert after changing machine type or page setup.
• Q: How do you prevent fabric shift on sticky stabilizer when rotating a Durkee 8" x 14" frame 180° for a Brother Persona PRS100 split design?
  A: Prevent shear movement by using full-size fresh adhesive tear-away and pressing the fabric down flat (not stretched) before you ever stitch Part A.
  • Cut adhesive tear-away to 17.25" x 11" so adhesive coverage is uniform across the frame.
  • Smooth stabilizer from center to edges to remove bubbles, then press fabric down neutral/relaxed (do not “drum-tight” stretch).
  • Rotate the entire frame 180° without peeling or lifting fabric off the adhesive.
  • Success check: the tie-off knot reference point stays in the expected place, and the Part B basting/alignment area does not show a visible gap.
  • If it still fails: discard weak/dirty sticky backing (tacky like a strong Post-it, not linty) and redo with a clean surface to avoid contamination.
• Q: What is the correct Brother Persona PRS100 alignment method for stitching split file “Ba” after rotating the hoop 180° with a Durkee/SASTURDY8X14 frame?
  A: Rotate “Ba” on-screen 180°, set the starting point to Bottom Right, then align the LED dot to the Part A tie-off knot and confirm with a needle-drop test.
  • Rotate the Ba design 90° two times (total 180°) on the PRS100 screen.
  • Set Starting Point Position to Bottom Right before moving the design.
  • Nudge with arrows until the LED drop light hovers over the Part A tie-off knot, then perform Lock + Scissors (needle drop) to verify.
  • Success check: the needle tip drops exactly into the tie-off knot—do not rely on the LED dot alone.
  • If it still fails: press Forward/Back stitch and 0 to confirm you are at the true start, then re-nudge and re-test before pressing Start.
• Q: Why does the Brother Persona PRS100 beep or hit a travel limit during split-hoop embroidery after rotating a Durkee 8" x 14" frame?
  A: This usually indicates a rotation mismatch—either the frame was rotated 180° physically but the “Ba” design was not rotated 180° digitally (or the opposite).
  • Confirm the frame was rotated 180° as a whole unit (fabric stayed stuck in place).
  • Confirm the PRS100 on-screen Ba preview was rotated 180° (90° x 2).
  • Recheck the Bottom Right starting point selection for the Ba segment.
  • Success check: the on-screen orientation matches the physical fabric orientation before you start moving to the tie-off knot.
  • If it still fails: stop and reset the setup rather than forcing movement against the limit (forcing risks losing position and wasting the project).
• Q: What needle-drop testing safety rules should be followed on a Brother Persona PRS100 during split design alignment?
  A: Treat needle-drop testing as live needle motion and keep hands, sleeves, and tools completely out of the needle area.
  • Move fabric and any tools away before pressing Lock and the needle-drop execution key (often Scissors/Needle Down depending on firmware).
  • Use the LED as a guide, but only watch from a safe distance while the needle descends.
  • Stop immediately if visibility is poor; improve lighting and reposition the hoop rather than reaching in close.
  • Success check: alignment is verified by the needle landing in the tie-off knot without your fingers ever entering the needle zone.
  • If it still fails: pause the process and reassess positioning using the move arrows—do not “hold” fabric near the needle to help it land.
• Q: When split-hoop embroidery on a Brother Persona PRS100 becomes too slow or error-prone, what is a practical upgrade path from technique fixes to magnetic hoops to a multi-needle setup?
  A: Start by tightening the workflow steps, then consider magnetic hoops to reduce handling force, and only consider a multi-needle machine when volume makes single-needle changeovers and rework unprofitable.
  • Level 1 (Technique): slow to a safe speed (example 600–700 SPM), use full-size fresh sticky stabilizer, and always baseline with Center Up on Part A.
  • Level 2 (Tool): evaluate a compatible magnetic embroidery hoop if rotating and re-seating the frame causes frequent fabric shift or hoop marks.
  • Level 3 (Production): consider a dedicated multi-needle platform (such as SEWTECH) when repeat jobs make thread changes and split-handling time the bottleneck.
  • Success check: you can complete Aa→flip→Ba with a needle-drop-confirmed match and no visible basting gap on repeat attempts.
  • If it still fails: treat the result as a “chain of custody” issue—identify whether the break happens in software settings, baseline/start point, or fabric grip during rotation before investing in hardware.