Spring ITH Bags, Kimberbell Hearts, and Shamrock Banners—What to Make Next (and How to Stitch It Without the Usual Headaches)

If you’ve ever watched a “show-and-tell” embroidery video and thought, “Okay… but what do I actually do at my machine so it comes out like that?”—you’re not alone.

This weekly demo from Embroidery.com is packed with solid project inspiration: a PJ Designs in-the-hoop bag with multiple handle styles, a Kimberbell Valentine piece adapted into a table runner with GlitterFlex and faux leather hearts, a set of spring banners with satin-stitch lettering and cross-hatch shamrocks, and a whimsical St. Patrick’s Day set stitched on waffle weave hot pads and a pillow.

What the video doesn’t do (because it’s not that kind of episode) is walk you through the “hidden” decisions that make or break these projects: how to stabilize, how to avoid puckers on waffle weave, how to keep appliqué edges crisp, and how to choose a workflow that doesn’t eat your whole weekend.

Below is the practical version—built on what’s shown in the video, plus the real-world prep and quality-control habits I’d use in a studio.

Don’t Panic—These Spring Projects Are Beginner-Friendly *If* You Control Fabric Movement

The projects shown are absolutely within reach for beginners, but they all share one common failure point: fabric shift.

• The PJ Designs bag is constructed in-the-hoop, so any slip shows up as misaligned seams, wavy edges, or a bag that doesn’t “square up.”
• The Kimberbell table runner has piecing + border hearts + specialty materials (GlitterFlex and faux leather), so distortion can show up as ripples or uneven satin.
• The banners rely on clean satin stitches (which magnify puckering).
• Waffle weave is textured and stretchy in a sneaky way—great for kitchen items, but it loves to tunnel and wave if you under-stabilize.

If you remember one principle, make it this: your hoop is a clamp, not a drum. You are not trying to stretch the life out of the fabric; you are trying to suspend it in a neutral state.

Sensory Check: When hooped correctly, the fabric should not look distorted or pulled at the corners. When you gently run your fingers over the surface, it should feel taut but not stressed. If you tap it, listen for a dull, firm "thud"—not a high-pitched "ping" (too tight) and definitely not a rattle (too loose).

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Stitch PJ Designs Build a Bag (ITH) or Any Kimberbell-Style Project

The video highlights the PJ Designs “Build a Bag” pack and shows the finished bag’s snap flap, two internal pockets, and optional features like a divider and an exterior pocket for ID/change. It also shows that the pack includes multiple bag variations and handle shapes (oval, zigzag top, rickrack top, swoop, straight).

That variety is fun—but it also means you’ll be swapping materials and thicknesses. Prep is where you prevent 80% of the ugly surprises.

Material sanity check (general guidance—always defer to the design’s supply list):

• Quilted cotton (runner background): This behaves differently than faux leather (tiny hearts). Quilted layers are thick and resist hooping; use a larger needle (Size 90/14) to penetrate without deflecting.
• Waffle weave (hot pads/towels): This needs a "sandwich" approach. You need a stabilizer underneath and a water-soluble topping (like Solvy) on top to keep stitches from sinking into the grid.
• GlitterFlex: This is heat-applied. Be aware that applying heat before stitching can shrink some cottons. Pre-shrink (steam) your base fabrics before you even cut them.

If you’re already using standard machine embroidery hoops, run your finger along the inner plastic ring. Feel for any nicks, scratches, or burrs. These tiny imperfections can snag delicate satin or faux leather, and they prevent the hoop from gripping evenly. If you feel a snag, sand it smooth with a high-grit emery board or replace the hoop.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Keep fingers clear when trimming appliqué, pockets, or ITH seam allowances near the hoop. A common injury for beginners occurs when users try to trim jump stitches while the machine is paused but not "locked." A sharp curved scissor + an accidental bump of the "Start" button is a fast way to get a needle through a finger. Always engage your machine's "Lock" mode before putting hands near the needle bar.

Prep Checklist (do this before you load the design)

• Confirm Variation: Double-check which bag handle style and pocket options are loaded. (Is it the oval handle or the swoop?)
• Batch Cutting: Pre-cut all fabrics, stabilizers, and batting. Don't stop to cut mid-project.
• Hidden Consumables: Do you have temporary spray adhesive (e.g., KK100)? Use it sparingly to hold batting to fabric in ITH projects. Do you have a fresh sharpie or water-soluble pen for marking centers?
• Needle Check: Install a fresh needle. For general cotton, a 75/11 is standard. For the thick ITH bag or faux leather, swap to a 90/14 or a specialized Leather needle.
• Bobbin Audit: Wind at least 3 bobbins per bag project. ITH designs consume massive amounts of thread, and running out mid-basting stitch is frustrating.

PJ Designs “Build a Bag” ITH: How to Think Through Structure, Pockets, and Closures Without Bulky Seams

In the video, Donnett opens the bag to show two internal pockets, mentions you can add a divider down the middle, and shows an exterior pocket option. She also demonstrates the flap closure with a magnetic snap.

Here’s the practical takeaway: the more features you add, the more you must manage thickness. Standard hoops struggle here because you have to force the inner ring inside the outer ring, which requires significant hand strength and often pushes the fabric layers out of alignment ("Hoop Push").

What usually goes wrong (and why)

• Wavy top edge / bag doesn’t sit flat: Layers shifted during the physical act of hooping.
• Pockets look crooked: The placement stitch ran while the bulky fabric was floating too high.
• Snap area looks distorted: Closure reinforcement wasn't stabilized enough.

A clean workflow for ITH bags (production-minded)

Even if you’re making one bag, work like you’re making ten. This reduces cognitive load.

1. Batch Phase: Apply fusible interfacing (like Shape-Flex) to all your lining pieces first. This adds the necessary structure for the snaps.
2. Sub-Assembly: Stitch all "inside" components (pockets/dividers) before starting the main hoop.
3. Hooping Strategy: If you struggle to hoop thick quilted layers ("sandwiches"), do not force it. Floating—hooping the stabilizer only and spraying/pinning the fabric on top—is a valid survival tactic for standard hoops. However, for precision ITH work, "floating" can be risky.

If you’re doing repeated ITH projects where alignment is critical, investing in a specific hooping station for machine embroidery can be the difference between "this is a fun hobby" and "why is everything crooked?" A station helps you align the backing and fabric consistently before you even clamp the hoop, reducing the variation between the Left Bag Side and the Right Bag Side.

Kimberbell “Be My Valentine” Bench Pillow Turned Table Runner: Keep GlitterFlex and Faux Leather Looking Expensive

Donnett shows a Kimberbell “Be My Valentine” design originally intended as a bench pillow, adapted into a table runner. She points out:

• Swirly heart border around the runner
• Appliqué hearts (with cute arrow details)
• “Be Mine” text done in GlitterFlex
• Tiny hearts embroidered on faux leather

Setup habits that prevent ripples on long runners

Long runners are notorious for “growing” or shifting as you handle them.

• Physics Check: Support the weight of the runner. If the excess fabric hangs off the table, gravity will pull against your hoop, causing drag and registration errors (gaps between outlines and fills). Use a sewing extension table or stack books to support the fabric weight.
• Speed Limits: For detailed runners with mixed media (vinyl/glitter), slow your machine down. If your machine maxes at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM), drop it to 600-700 SPM. This "Beginner Sweet Spot" gives the thread take-up lever more time to settle the tension on specialty materials.

If you’re experimenting with magnetic embroidery hoop options for home single-needle machines, this is the ideal scenario. The ability to simply lift the magnets, slide the long fabric runner to the next position, and snap the magnets back down reduces hoop burn (the unsightly rings left by friction hoops). Minimizing hoop burn is critical on specialized table runner fabrics like velvet or silk dupioni.

Specialty material notes (general, not video-specific)

• Faux Leather: It does not heal. Once the needle makes a hole, it is permanent. Use a 75/11 Sharp needle (not Ballpoint) for crisp edges. Do not use dense fill stitches on vinyl; it will perforate and tear out like a postage stamp.
• GlitterFlex: This adheres with heat. When stitching onto it, use a Teflon or non-stick presser foot if available, or just slow down to prevent the foot from dragging on the textured vinyl surface.

Spring Banners with Satin Stitch Letters and Cross-Hatch Shamrocks: Make Them Crisp, Not Wavy

The video shows a “SPRING” bunting banner and highlights:

• Satin stitch lettering for “SPRING”
• Cross-hatching fill inside shamrocks
• A paired 6-spool thread kit for the project (Rosy Blush, Dandelion, Leafy Green, Kentucky Grass, Ivy, and Tulip)

Why satin stitch exposes stabilization mistakes

Satin stitch is essentially a series of parallel lines pulling the fabric together. It exerts high tension. If the fabric isn’t supported, the stitch column will pull the fabric inward (puckering), creating a "tunnel" effect.

Stabilizer Decision Tree (fabric → backing choice)

Start Here: What is your banner base fabric?

• Scenario A: Quilt Cotton / Stable Woven (Single Layer)
  • Action: Use Medium Cutaway (2.5oz).
  • Reason: Tearaway isn't stable enough for dense satin lettering over time; the stitches will break the paper fiber.
• Scenario B: Pre-Quilted Cotton (Fabric + Batting + Backing)
  • Action: Use Firm Tearaway.
  • Reason: The batting and extra fabric layers provide their own stability. A Cutaway might add too much bulk to the banner edges.
• Scenario C: Waffle Weave / Textured Towel
  • Action: Heavy Cutaway + Soluble Topping.
  • Reason: The texture helps hide puckers, but the loops will poke through the satin without a topper.
• Scenario D: Faux Leather / Vinyl
  • Action: Medium Cutaway.
  • Reason: Prevents the vinyl from stretching under the heat and tension of the needle.

When you’re doing seasonal banner sets in batches (S-P-R-I-N-G is 6 hoopings!), consistent alignment is key. Experienced embroiderers often use a hooping station for embroidery to ensure every letter lands exactly 2 inches from the bottom hem, eliminating the need to measure manually every single time.

Setup Checklist (right before you press Start)

• Table Support: Confirm the banner piece is fully supported (no "gravity drag").
• Thread Path: Floss the thread through the tension disks. You should feel a slight resistance, like pulling a hair through tight teeth. If it pulls freely, you missed the tension disk.
• Hoop Clearance: Can the hoop move freely? Check behind the machine for walls or coffee cups.
• Test Stitch: If this is your first time with this satin font, stitch the letter "I" on a scrap of the same fabric/stabilizer combo. Check for puckering.

Whimsical St. Patty’s Day on Waffle Weave Hot Pads: The Texture Is Cute—Until It Distorts Your Design

Donnett shows Starbird’s “Whimsical St. Patty’s Day” pack (10 designs) and finished items including:

• A pillow with leprechaun front and center, plus rainbow/horseshoe/flag/dancing shoes motifs
• Waffle weave hot pads and small mug-rug style pieces (including a dancing Irish bear)
• A green-heavy thread palette (Pistachio Nut, Dusty Green, Green Apple, Holly Leaf, Ivy, Tulip)

The waffle weave rule: don’t let the fabric “float”

Waffle weave is treacherous. It has peaks and valleys. Under stitching pressure, those valleys collapse, and the entire fabric grid can distort diagonally.

Practical habits for Waffle Weave:

1. Do Not Stretch: When hooping, do not pull the waffle weave until it opens up. Keep natural geometry.
2. Topping is Mandatory: Use a water-soluble film (Solvy) component on top. Without it, your "dancing bear" will look like he's sinking into quicksand.
3. Adhesion: Use a light mist of temporary spray adhesive to bond the waffle weave to the stabilizer essential to prevent the two layers from sliding against each other.

If you are running thick items like hot pads regularly, standard hoops often pop open mid-stitch or fail to close entirely. This is where magnetic embroidery hoops become a production necessity rather than a luxury. They clamp vertically, accommodating the alternating thickness of the waffle pattern without forcing the material out of shape.

Thread Palette Planning: Why the Video’s Hemingworth Color Picks Save You Time (and Re-stitching)

The demo repeatedly pairs projects with curated Hemingworth thread palettes—spring pastels for banners and a strong green set for St. Patrick’s Day.

The Pro Insight: Thread quality matters more than machine speed. Cheap thread breaks, frays, and sheds lint into your tension discs.

• Polyester vs. Rayon: For kitchen items (hot pads), use 100% Polyester. It can withstand bleach and hot water washing. Rayon has a beautiful sheen but is weaker and degrades with bleach.
• Labeling: Treat thread like inventory. Label your "Spring Set" so you aren't hunting for "that specific green #1234" next year.

The Fix Is Often Hooping: How to Clamp Layers Without Stretching Them (and When Magnetic Frames Earn Their Keep)

Even though the video doesn’t show hooping, every project here depends on it.

Here’s the physics: Hoop Burn happens when you push an inner ring into an outer ring, creating friction that crushes fabric fibers. Distortion happens when that same friction pulls the fabric taut unevenly.

What “good hooping” feels like

• The Drum Skin Myth: Fabric should not be stretched tight like a drum. It should be neutral flat. Stretching creates "stored energy" that snaps back when you unhoop, causing puckers around your embroidery.
• Stability: The backing (stabilizer) should be doing the heavy lifting. Clamp the stabilizer tight; lay the fabric neutral.

If you find yourself avoiding embroidery because hooping hurts your wrists or ruins your velvet, embroidery magnetic hoops offer a completely different mechanical approach. They use vertical magnetic force to clamp straight down. No friction. No burn. No wrestling. This is the "Industry Standard" method for a reason—it is physically safer for both the operator and the garment.

Warning: Magnet Safety Guide. Magnetic frames (like the MaggieFrame) are industrial-strength tools.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers away from the contact points when snapping them shut. They bite hard.
* Pace Makers: Keep strong magnets at least 6-12 inches away from implanted medical devices.
* Electronics: Do not place your phone or credit cards directly on the powerful magnets.

Real-World Troubleshooting: Symptoms You’ll See on Bags, Banners, and Waffle Weave (and What Usually Fixes Them)

Because the episode is a showcase, it doesn’t include troubleshooting—but these are the issues I see most often when people attempt exactly these kinds of projects.

1) Satin letters look wavy on the “SPRING” banner

Symptoms: The edges specific letters look jagged or the fabric ripples. Likely Cause: Support Failure. The stabilizer is too light for the stitch density. Quick Fix: "Floating" a scrap of medium tearaway under the hoop (slide it under the problem area) can save a project mid-stitch. Prevention: Use Cutaway stabilizer next time.

2) Faux leather hearts look “perforated” or pucker

Symptoms: The vinyl is tearing at the needle points; the fill area is bulging. Likely Cause: Needle Drag. The needle is getting hot and sticking to the vinyl, or the density is too high. Quick Fix: Clean the needle with rubbing alcohol if it has residue. Prevention: Lower the stitch density in your software by 10-15%. Use a larger needle (90/14).

3) Waffle weave designs sink in and lose detail

Symptoms: You can't see the bear's eyes; the text is illegible. Likely Cause: No Topper. Quick Fix: None for the current stitch, unfortunately. Prevention: Use water-soluble topping.

4) ITH bag edges don’t line up cleanly

Symptoms: The front and back of the bag are misaligned by 1/4 inch. Likely Cause: "Hoop Creep." The stabilizer slipped in the hoop during the heavy satin stitching. Prevention: Wrap the edges of your inner hoop with "friction tape" or vet wrap for better grip, or upgrade to magnetic frames that hold tighter.

The “Upgrade” Path: When a Hobby Workflow Becomes a Production Workflow (Without Feeling Salesy)

If you’re making one table runner for your own home, you can take your time. But if you’re making:

• multiple banners for seasonal décor,
• matching towel/hot pad sets,
• or ITH bags as gifts (or to sell),

…your bottleneck becomes setup time, not stitch time.

Here’s a data-driven way to decide what to upgrade next:

• If you spend >5 minutes hooping per item: Consider a hoopmaster style station or magnetic frames. The ROI is immediate in time saved.
• If you change thread >10 times per design: A multi-needle machine (like the SEWTECH models) allows you to set up all 6 colors of the "Spring Palette" at once. This changes the workflow from "babysitting the machine" to "press start and walk away."
• If you ruin >10% of garments with hoop burn: Switch to Magnetic Hoops. The cost of the hoop is less than the cost of ruined inventory over a year.

Operation Checklist (the last 60 seconds before you walk away)

• Clearance: Is the project free-floating? (No sleeves/straps caught under the hoop).
• Sound Check: Listen to the first 20 seconds. A rhythmic "thump-thump" is good. A harsh "clack-clack" means a needle is hitting something or is bent.
• Bobbin Sighting: Can you see the bobbin thread? If white thread is showing on top, your top tension is too tight. If top color loops on the bottom, top tension is too loose.
• Safety Zone: Keep trimming snips far away from the magnetic field of your hoop (if applicable) so they don't snap onto your work area.

Embroidery is 20% art and 80% engineering. Master the clamp, master the stabilizer, and the art will follow. Happy stitching

FAQ

• Q: How can a Brother embroidery machine user prevent fabric shift and puckering when hooping quilt cotton, pre-quilted layers, or waffle weave for satin-stitch lettering?
  A: Keep the fabric neutrally flat in the hoop (a hoop is a clamp, not a drum) and let the stabilizer do the heavy lifting.
  • Hoop: Clamp the stabilizer firmly, then lay the fabric on top without stretching corners or “opening up” the weave.
  • Check: Run fingers across the hooped area; it should feel taut but not stressed, with no corner distortion.
  • Listen: Tap the hooped fabric—aim for a dull, firm “thud,” not a high “ping” (too tight) and not a rattle (too loose).
  • If it still fails: Reduce fabric movement next time by using a hooping station for consistent alignment and clamping.
• Q: How can a Janome embroidery machine user diagnose incorrect thread tension using bobbin thread visibility during the first 20 seconds of stitching?
  A: Use the bobbin thread “sighting” check—what shows on top vs. bottom tells you which tension direction is wrong.
  • Start: Stitch and watch the first few seconds before walking away.
  • Adjust: If white bobbin thread shows on top, the top tension is too tight; if top color loops on the bottom, the top tension is too loose.
  • Confirm: Re-thread the top path by “flossing” the thread into the tension discs so it has slight resistance.
  • Success check: The top thread looks smooth on top, and the underside shows balanced bobbin/top without big loops.
  • If it still fails: Replace the needle with a fresh one and re-check the thread path through the tension discs.
• Q: How can a Baby Lock embroidery machine user stop wavy satin-stitch letters on a “SPRING” banner when the fabric ripples around the stitch columns?
  A: Upgrade stabilization—satin stitch exposes support failure, so the quickest save is adding support under the stitch area.
  • Rescue: Slide (“float”) a scrap of medium tearaway under the hooped area to add temporary support mid-stitch.
  • Prevent: Use cutaway stabilizer next time for dense satin lettering so the fabric cannot tunnel inward.
  • Slow down: Keep handling gentle and support the fabric so it doesn’t drag while stitching.
  • Success check: Satin edges look clean and parallel, and the banner stays flat with no tunneling along the letters.
  • If it still fails: Stitch a test “I” on the same fabric/stabilizer combo to confirm the font density is stable.
• Q: How can a Singer embroidery machine user prevent faux leather appliqué hearts from looking perforated or puckered during dense embroidery?
  A: Reduce drag and stress on the faux leather—needle choice, speed control, and density are the usual fix points.
  • Needle: Use a 75/11 Sharp needle for crisp holes; faux leather does not “heal,” so placement matters.
  • Control: Slow the machine down when stitching specialty materials to reduce friction and distortion.
  • Clean: Wipe needle residue with rubbing alcohol if the needle starts dragging.
  • Success check: The faux leather stays flat, holes look clean (not tearing like a postage stamp), and edges don’t ripple.
  • If it still fails: Lower stitch density in embroidery software by about 10–15% and re-test on a scrap.
• Q: How can a Bernina embroidery machine user keep waffle weave towels or hot pads from “sinking” stitches so details (like eyes or text) become unreadable?
  A: Use a topping and prevent the fabric from floating—waffle weave needs a stabilizer “sandwich” to hold the texture still.
  • Add: Place water-soluble topping film on top so stitches don’t sink into the waffle grid.
  • Bond: Lightly mist temporary spray adhesive to keep waffle weave and stabilizer from sliding as the needle penetrates.
  • Hoop: Do not stretch waffle weave to “open” the texture; keep the natural geometry.
  • Success check: Small details stay sharp and sit on top of the texture instead of disappearing into the valleys.
  • If it still fails: Move up to a heavier cutaway underlay and re-check that the fabric is not being stretched during hooping.
• Q: What needle, bobbin, and consumables prep should a Tajima-style multi-needle embroidery machine operator do before starting an ITH “Build a Bag” project to avoid mid-run stops and misalignment?
  A: Prep like production—fresh needle, multiple bobbins, and all pre-cut layers prevent most ITH “ugly surprises.”
  • Install: Put in a fresh needle (75/11 for general cotton; 90/14 for thick quilted layers or faux leather; use a leather needle if required).
  • Wind: Prepare at least 3 bobbins per bag because ITH designs consume a lot of thread.
  • Pre-cut: Batch cut all fabric, stabilizer, and batting so you don’t stop mid-project and lose alignment.
  • Success check: The placement/basting stitches land exactly where expected, and seams/pockets stay square without drifting.
  • If it still fails: Avoid forcing bulky layers into a friction hoop—hoop stabilizer only and carefully float layers, or switch to a clamping method that handles thickness changes more consistently.
• Q: What are the key mechanical and magnet safety rules when using industrial-strength magnetic embroidery hoops on SWF, Ricoma, or SEWTECH multi-needle machines?
  A: Treat magnetic frames like powered clamps—protect fingers, protect medical devices, and keep electronics away from the magnets.
  • Avoid: Keep fingers out of the magnet contact points when snapping the frame shut (pinch hazard).
  • Separate: Keep strong magnets 6–12 inches away from pacemakers or implanted medical devices.
  • Store: Do not place phones or credit cards directly on the magnets.
  • Success check: The frame closes without fighting the material, clamps evenly, and does not leave friction rings (hoop burn).
  • If it still fails: If clamping feels uneven on thick, textured items, re-seat the layers neutrally (no stretching) and close magnets straight down rather than sliding them.
• Q: When thick ITH bags, long table runners, or batch banners keep coming out crooked on a Brother PR series workflow, when should the upgrade path be technique optimization vs. magnetic hoops vs. a SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine?
  A: Use a staged decision: fix setup habits first, upgrade clamping next, and upgrade machine capacity when thread changes and setup time become the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Slow to 600–700 SPM for mixed media, support long runners so gravity doesn’t pull, and confirm neutral hooping (no “drum tight” stretching).
  • Level 2 (Tooling): Choose magnetic hoops if hoop burn ruins fabric or if thick/variable layers cause “hoop push” and alignment drift.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Choose a multi-needle machine (such as SEWTECH) if designs require frequent thread changes and you spend more time babysitting than stitching.
  • Success check: Hooping time drops, alignment stays consistent across repeated hoopings (like S-P-R-I-N-G letters), and scrap rate decreases.
  • If it still fails: Add a hooping station to standardize placement and reduce left/right variation on repeatable projects.