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Watch the video: “The Patch Kit Training Video By Colman & Company” by Colman and Company
Looking for clean, durable patches without the hassle of merrowing? This walkthrough follows Colman and Company’s training video, showing the full journey from embroidery to a crisp, heat-sealed edge—and the final press onto a garment. It’s efficient, repeatable, and business-friendly.
What you’ll learn
- How to hoop polyester patch material and stitch both the border and interior design
- How to create a protective Teflon/parchment sandwich so glue doesn’t foul your press
- How to fuse heat seal glue for a shiny, strong backing that doubles as your adhesive
- How to cut and simultaneously seal edges with a low-temperature hot knife
- How to apply the finished patch to a garment using a heat press or a hand iron
Hook: Why heat-sealed patches Heat-sealed edges lock fibers together so they won’t unravel. With a low-temperature hot knife and a heat press, you’ll get crisp outlines and a thin, flexible patch that’s easy to sew or heat-apply later. The method in the video avoids a separate merrowing step entirely. If you’re new to patch production, this is a tidy, beginner-friendly system that respects your time and materials. embroidery machine for beginners
Introduction to the Colman Patch Kit The Colman Patch Kit centers on polyester patch material (offered in multiple colors), polyester thread, and a heat seal glue that gets fused behind your embroidery. The material color becomes your patch background, so you save the time you would otherwise spend stitching a full fill. You stitch the border and interior design, fuse the glue, then hot-knife the edge for a sealed, fray-resistant finish.
What is the Colman Patch Kit?
- Polyester patch fabric: available in 10 colors (background color of your patch)
- Polyester thread for the design and border
- Heat seal glue sheet for the back (becomes shiny once fused)
- Protective layers: Teflon or parchment paper—both are shown in the video and work fine
Benefits of Heat-Sealed Patches
- No merrowing required: the hot knife gives you that clean, finished look
- Time and cost savings: you don’t stitch background fills
- Thin, flexible patches: easy to heat-apply and still sew if you choose
- Durable edges: the heat seals neighboring threads, keeping borders intact
Step 1: Embroidering Your Patch Design Everything starts at the embroidery machine. Hoop the polyester patch material so it’s secure and smooth, because the material’s color will serve as your background. Then stitch your border and interior design; the presenter notes that every patch essentially has a border of some shape.
Hooping Polyester Material Hooping is routine—but essential. Proper hooping prevents distortion and puckering, especially when your border is the cutline you’ll later follow with the hot knife. The video demonstrates hooped yellow polyester patch material ready for stitching.
Machine Embroidery Process Start the machine and let it run the design to completion. You’ll see the machine stitch both the border and interior elements on the hooped material. When finished, remove the hoop from the machine and prepare to move to the heat press for the glue step.
Pro tip: Borders are everything Because you’ll cut along the outer edge of the stitched border, make sure it’s cleanly digitized and stitched. A smooth border yields smoother hot-knife passes later.
Step 2: Applying the Heat Seal Glue With the embroidery done, it’s time to create the shiny, sealed backing that also serves as your adhesive when attaching the patch to a garment.
Preparing for Heat Press At the press, cover the lower platen with Teflon or parchment paper. Place the embroidered material face up. The presenter uses a solid sheet of heat seal glue; it doesn’t need to cover the entire hooped field—just the patch area—so do a simple cutout to save material.
Watch out: Protect your press Glue can transfer to the platens if you skip the protective layers. Use Teflon or parchment on both sides to build a clean “patch sandwich.” This keeps glue where it belongs and helps you re-use materials more efficiently.
The Heat Seal Sandwich Technique Place the glue on the bobbin side of the embroidery (shiny side down), cover with your top sheet of Teflon or parchment, and press at 330–340°F. The video demonstrates a short press (~10 seconds), then flipping the sandwich and pressing again (~10 seconds) to ensure even fusion. Let it cool slightly before peeling. You should see a shiny, sealed back.
Quick check: Did the glue fuse? Look for a uniform, glossy sheen on the back. That sheen signals a proper bond and prevents fraying during the final cut. If the sheen is dull or uneven, re-press briefly, maintaining the same temperature range.
Step 3: Precision Cutting with a Hot Knife This is where the system shines: the low-temperature hot knife cuts the shape and seals the edge in one pass, giving you a professional border without a merrow.
Rough Cut vs. Hot Knife Cut Start with a rough cut using scissors, leaving a safe halo of fabric outside your stitched border. This prevents accidental snips into the border’s threads. The presenter then moves to a glass cutting surface—a simple, smooth glass oval or circle from a hardware or craft store works well and tolerates the hot knife’s heat.
Sealing Edges for Durability The hot knife—described as a low-temperature wood burning tool—is guided right along the outer stitched edge. As you glide, it cuts through polyester and heat-seals threads at that exact border, which is why the edge resists fraying later. Keep a hot tool holder on the table to protect surfaces and yourself when you set the tool down.
Tips for Clean Cuts Residue from the material can build up on the knife and transfer as discoloration (especially on white patches). The video’s simple solution: a folded, dry paper towel. Wipe the tip every inch or so to keep it clean and prevent staining.
From the comments No public comments were available with the video data provided, so viewer Q&A is not specified. If you have a question, consider common areas like pressing times, cutting speed, or patch placement.
Watch out: Speed control matters Going too fast can leave uncut threads; too slow can overheat the edge. If you encounter a rough spot, the video shows you can lightly use the barrel of the tool to smooth it. Wipe the tip frequently to avoid cooked-on residue that leads to brown marks.
Quick check: Edge quality After a few inches, pause and inspect. You should see a smooth, sealed edge with no loose threads and no scorch marks. If you spot fuzz or a missed stitch, lightly revisit that section with the tip—or smooth with the barrel.
Pro tip: Glass is your friend Cutting on glass gives the hot knife a consistent glide and protects your work surface. It also helps you maintain a steady angle as you trace the border. For round or oval patches, rotating the glass under your hand can be easier than moving the patch alone. Using a specialized hoop is not required here, but if your production flow includes magnetic frames, the overall hooping step earlier can be streamlined with tools like a magnetic embroidery hoop.
Step 4: Applying Your Patch to a Garment With a sealed patch in hand, move to the final press. The key is pressing from both sides: a short placement press from the front, then a longer, stronger press from the back—where the glue lives.
Heat Press vs. Hand Iron A heat press is ideal (it’s consistent and has timers), but the video confirms you can apply with a household iron too. For a hand iron, set it between wool and cotton—approximately 330°F, similar to the press setting—then follow the same basic approach: short press from the front for placement, longer press from the back to fully bond.
Front and Back Pressing for Strength
- Front: Cover with parchment or Teflon and press about 10 seconds for placement
- Flip the garment: Press from the back for about 20–25 seconds
The back press feeds heat into the glue, encouraging it to flow into the garment for a strong hold.
Pro tip: Pre-press the garment A quick pre-press removes moisture and wrinkles, creating a flat, dry surface so the glue bonds more evenly. Align the patch carefully before the front press—repositioning after heat is difficult without risking damage.
When to Sew Your Patch The glue is very strong; the presenter notes trade show demos where people tried to tear patches off. Still, for large patches like jacket backs, consider running an outline stitch after heat application for extra security. For small to medium patches, the fused bond is typically sufficient when applied correctly.
Troubleshooting and Safety
- Lifting edges after cool-down: Re-press from the back 10–15 seconds. Ensure temperature is 330–340°F and use protective sheets.
- Discoloration on light patches: Wipe the hot knife tip regularly; residue can cook and stain if left on the tip.
- Ragged edges: Slow your passes slightly, trace right along the border, and smooth with the tool’s barrel if needed.
- Safety essentials: Use a hot tool holder, mind the cord, and keep the work area clear of papers or fabrics that aren’t part of the cut.
Watch out: Protect your platens Glue can migrate if you omit Teflon/parchment. Always sandwich the work. This prevents cleanup headaches and keeps subsequent presses pristine. If you frequently switch projects, dedicated cover sheets can be labeled “glue side” to avoid mix-ups.
Quick check: Final adhesion After the back press, allow the garment to cool briefly. Check the perimeter for any lift. If you find a spot that isn’t bonded, cover and re-press from the back in short bursts until fully secure. As your workflow scales, you might organize different hooping options upstream—especially if you use magnetic hoops for embroidery machines to speed setup on various fabrics.
Achieving Professional Results with Colman The Colman approach is practical: leverage polyester’s behavior under heat to accomplish two goals at once—edge sealing and adhesive activation. A few habits make all the difference: proper hooping, disciplined use of protective sheets, consistent press times and temperatures, and mindful hot-knife technique. The result is a thin, professional patch with no fray, ready for apparel decoration.
From the production floor
- Digitize borders you can follow: smooth, even lines help the hot knife track effortlessly.
- Cut smart on the glue: Only cover the needed area to save material.
- Make the most of the back press: That’s where the glue bonds strongest.
Scaling your setup If you’re producing patches regularly, consider standardizing your hooping and press workflow. Some shops prefer magnetic accessories for faster hooping and repeatable placement. Depending on your machine and preferences, operators often experiment with tools like embroidery machine hoops or even popular third-party frames. Others swear by rugged systems such as mighty hoops for consistent grip on thicker items. Choose what matches your machine and product line.
Alternative hooping aids In many embroidery shops, upgrades and accessories can simplify setup across brands and models. For teams who swap hoops frequently, a durable magnetic frame can reduce clamp marks and speed setup. Market options range widely; some embroiderers talk about systems marketed as snap hoop monster or specific branded frames like dime magnetic hoop. Your exact fit will depend on machine compatibility and project mix, but the core patch process shown here doesn’t require any special hoop beyond a good fit for your fabric.
Workflow recap 1) Stitch the design and border on polyester patch material. 2) Build your Teflon/parchment sandwich and fuse the heat seal glue at 330–340°F—press front and back briefly. 3) Rough cut, then use a low-temperature hot knife along the border to cut and seal the edge. 4) Apply to the garment: short front press for placement, longer back press for a permanent bond.
Sustainability and material care Because the patch material is pre-colored polyester, you’re not laying down heavy fill stitches to create a background. That saves thread and time. Carewise, the video doesn’t specify laundering guidelines, but sealed polyester edges typically hold up well. When in doubt, test on similar garments to confirm your settings before a production run. If you’re still building your kit, many shops begin with a basic press and hot knife, later layering in accessories like a magnetic embroidery hoop for specific jobs.
Frequently asked (from the video data)
- Heat press temperature: 330–340°F for both fusing the glue and final garment application.
- Press durations: About 10 seconds from the front (both during glue fuse and final placement) and 20–25 seconds from the back for the strong bond.
- Hand iron setting: Between wool and cotton, approximately 330°F.
- Large patches: Consider adding an outline stitch after heat application for extra assurance.
Final take This method gives embroidery businesses and DIY makers a polished, merrow-free finish with reliable adhesion. Follow the timings, protect your press, and run the hot knife with a steady hand. With practice, you’ll produce patches that look sharp, hold strong, and scale beautifully across apparel lines—whether you’re outfitting uniforms, creating club badges, or launching a custom patch side hustle. As your operation grows, refine your upstream hooping approach—some shops add tools like magnetic hoops for embroidery machines or brand-agnostic systems such as mighty hoops—but the core heat-seal process remains the same: simple, strong, and repeatable.