Faux Chenille on a ZSK Machine: Dial In the Cording Loop Device for Tall, Even Loops (Without Crashing Needle 17)

If you have ever watched a faux-chenille sample stitch out and thought, “Why do my loops look flat, lifeless, and sad?”—you are not alone. It is a rite of passage for every embroiderer moving from standard satin stitches to specialty texture work.

The good news is that with the ZSK Cording Loop Device (and similar specialty attachments), loop height is not a mystery setting buried deep in your software. It is a mechanical relationship—a “physics triangle” between how freely the cord feeds, how high the foot sits, and how much breathing room your stitch pattern gives the cord to stand up.

As a veteran of the trade, I treat machine embroidery as a sensory science. We need to move beyond just “following steps” and start feeling the tension and hearing the rhythm of a successful run. This article rebuilds the full workflow—starter kit parts, installation on Needle 17/18, threading, BasePac settings, and the critical loop-height adjustment using the step gauge.

More importantly, I have layered in the specific “day one” safety checks and sensory anchors I teach new operators, ensuring you don’t bend hardware, waste expensive cord, or scar premium garments with hoop burn.

The Cording Loop Device on a ZSK Multi-Needle Machine: What It Actually Does (and Why It Feels “Scary” the First Time)

The Cording Loop Device is a specialized mechanical attachment that feeds thick chenille-style cording through a dedicated foot while the machine stitches it down. In the workflow we are analyzing, the device is mounted on Needle 17, and Needle 18 is used with standard embroidery thread to tack down the cording.

If you feel nervous about installing this, that is a healthy reaction. Unlike a standard presser foot change, this is a mechanical intervention in the needle bar area. Small alignment mistakes here can turn into a needle strike.

However, once you understand the mechanics, fear turns into respect. The device relies on three non-negotiable rules:

1. Feed Low-Friction: The cord must pull through the guide with almost zero resistance.
2. Height Creates Space: The mechanical height of the foot determines the arch of the loop.
3. Pattern Allows Lift: The digitized stitches must be long enough (start with 5.0mm) to allow the cord to rise.

One immediate reality check: Compatibility is specific. While this guide focuses on the ZSK ecosystem shown in the reference, the principles of cording apply broadly. However, never force an attachment onto a machine (like a Ricoma or Tajima) without verifying needle bar geometry and clearance. A mismatch here isn't just a fitment issue; it’s a collision hazard.

Unboxing the Cording Loop Device Starter Kit: Feet Hole Sizes, Needles, and the Measurement Plate That Saves You

When you open the starter kit, you aren't just looking at spare parts; you are looking at your quality control system. The kit typically includes:

• A technical manual (your bible for part numbers).
• Thick chenille cording (often red or high-contrast in demos).
• Multiple feet with varying hole diameters (1.5mm, 2.0mm, etc.).
• A Measurement Plate (the most critical tool in the box).
• Special cording needles (often with larger eyes or different scarf geometry).
• Mounting hardware (screws, washers, device bar).

The Measurement Plate: Your First Gatekeeper

The measurement plate is not a suggestion. It is a "Go/No-Go" gauge. Before even touching the machine, you must pass your chosen cord through the holes in the measurement plate.

• The Sensory Check: If you pull the cord and feel it "catch" or drag like a zipper getting stuck, the hole is too small. If it wobbles loosely, it’s too big. You want a smooth, gliding sensation—like pulling dental floss, but without the snap.

If you skip this step, no amount of software tweaking will fix the friction issue. Tight holes flatten loops; loose holes cause messy, wandering designs.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Touch Needle 17: Cord Feed, Hoop Choice, and a Clean Work Surface

Amateurs start by screwing parts onto the machine. Professionals start by setting the stage. Before you install the device, set yourself up for production success.

1. Cord Feed and Tension The host in our reference emphasizes that the cord must travel “super easily.” In physical terms, this means the tension on the cording spool should be near zero. It should unspool with the weight of a feather.

• Expert Tip: If using a heavy industrial spool of chenille cord, the weight of the spool itself can create drag. Place it on a smooth spool pin or a dedicated bearing holder to ensure it spins freely.

2. Hooping Strategy: The Hidden Variable The demo uses a blue magnetic hoop around a ~5.5" square area. This is a deliberate choice for a reason. Cording is often applied to thick substrates—varsity jackets, hoodies, or felt patches.

• The Problem: Traditional compression hoops (the screw-and-ring type) struggle with thick items. To get them tight, you have to crank the screw, which creates "hoop burn" (permanent crush marks) on leather or wool.
• The Solution: This is where a magnetic embroidery hoop becomes essential. It uses magnetic force to sandwich the material without crushing the fibers excessively. It also prevents the "trampoline effect" where the fabric bounces, which kills loop consistency.

3. Hidden Consumables Before starting, ensure you have:

• Water-soluble foil: To keep the loops from sinking into the fabric.
• Curved snips: For trimming the cord tail cleanly.
• Machine Oil: A drop on the needle bar (if recommended by manual) ensures smooth mechanical movement with the extra weight of the device.
  

Prep Checklist (Do this BEFORE installation)

• Substrate Check: Confirm your design fits the hoop (e.g., 5.5" field). If using a thick jacket, switch to a magnetic frame now.
• Component Inventory: Lay out the device bar, specific washers, correct foot, measurement plate, step gauge, and screwdriver.
• Cord Caliper Test: Pass the cord through the measurement plate. Confirm the foot hole matches the cord diameter exactly (smooth glide, no snag).
• Path Clearance: Pull the cord by hand from the spool stand to the needle area. Listen for snagging sounds. It must be silent and smooth.
• Consumables: Have your water-soluble foil and a fresh water-soluble marking pen ready.
  

Installing the Cording Loop Device on ZSK Needle 17 + Needle 18: The Washer Stack That Prevents a Needle Strike

The installation mechanics are precise. In this setup, Needle 17 holds the device (the passive carrier), and Needle 18 creates the lockstitch.

The stacking order of the mounting hardware is not a suggestion; it is a safety clearance requirement.

1. Stop: Ensure the machine is in Emergency Stop mode so no buttons can be accidentally pressed.
2. Stack: Place the Washer on Top -> Add the Foot -> Add the Second Washer below.
3. Align: This is the critical moment. You must align the foot hole so the needle descends behind or through the specific clearance slot.

The "Click" of Death: If you hear a metal-on-metal click when you manually turn the handwheel, STOP. That is the needle grazing the foot. Re-center the foot immediately.

Warning: Mechanical Safety Hazard
Keep fingers, loose clothing, and hair tied back when working near the needle bars. When testing the device movement, use the manual handwheel first. Never run a test at full speed (800+ SPM) immediately after installation. A needle strike on a cording device can shatter the needle throughout the workspace.

Threading Thick Chenille Cording Through the Guides and Foot Hole: “Super Easy” Pull Is the Real Setting

Routing the cord is different from routing thread. Thread goes through tension discs; cording bypasses them. The video shows the cord routing through the side guides of the needle package and then using a wire threading tool to pull it through the foot's eye.

The Operator-Level Rule:

• Grab the cord coming out of the foot.
• Pull it gentle.
• Sensory Check: It should feel like pulling a loose shoelace. If you feel resistance similar to flossing tight teeth, it is too tight.
• Correction: If it drags, check the spool path or move to the next size up on the foot hole diameter.

Why this matters: If the machine has to "fight" to pull the cord, it will pull the loop flat before the needle stitches it down. Zero drag = Maximum Loop Height.

Hooping Laser-Cut Appliqué on Water-Soluble Foil in a Blue Magnetic Hoop: Fast, Clean Patch Prep

The demo showcases an efficient patch workflow. A laser-cut lightning bolt appliqué is placed on water-soluble foil, all held within a blue magnetic hoop.

Why Magnetic Hoops? For patches and appliqués, time is money. A hooping station for machine embroidery combined with magnetic hoops allows you to "snap" the material in place rather than wrestling with screws.

• Consistency: The magnets apply vertical pressure evenly.
• Speed: You can hoop a patch setup in 10 seconds versus 45 seconds with a screw hoop.
• No Distortion: Screw hoops tend to warp the fabric weave; magnetic hoops hold it neutral.

Using water-soluble foil is the secret sauce here. It acts as a smooth "skating rink" for the cord to slide on before being stitched, preventing the rough texture of the appliqué fabric from grabbing the cord prematurely.

BasePac Fill Stitch Settings for Faux Chenille: Stitch Length 5.0 and Density 20–25 (Give the Loops Room)

Software settings for cording are counter-intuitive. In standard embroidery, we want tight density. In cording, we need "air."

In BasePac (or your respective digitizing software), you are essentially programming a Fill Stitch with specific modifications:

1. Stitch Direction: Horizontal (perpendicular to column width usually works best for managing cord turn).
2. Stitch Length: Set to 5.0mm. This is the "Sweet Spot." A short stitch (e.g., 3.0mm) pulls the cord down too frequently, flattening it. A 5.0mm length allows the cord to arch up between penetration points.
3. Density/Spacing: Set vertically to 20.00 - 25.00 points (approx 2.0mm - 2.5mm).

The Insurance Stitch: Always add a Run Stitch before the cording starts to tack down your appliqué material. If you skip this, the heavy friction of the cording foot will push your loose appliqué fabric across the hoop, ruining the alignment.

Setup Checklist (Software & Machine)

• Digitizing Check: Fill Stitch selected? Direction Horizontal? Length 5.0mm? Density ~2.5mm?
• Tack Down: Is there a running stitch to hold the appliqué before cording begins?
• Needle Assignment: Confirm Needle 17 is set as "Device/Cord" and Needle 18 is "Thread" in your machine's color change settings.
• Speed Limit: Lower your machine speed. Do not run cording at 1000 SPM. Start at 600 SPM. High speed creates centrifugal force that can whip the cord flat.
  

The Step Gauge Trick: Raising Loop Height Mid-Run Without Guessing

This is the "ah-ha" moment in the workflow. The host starts the machine, pauses, looks at the loops, and decides they are "a little low."

Hardware controls height; software controls placement. To raise the loops:

1. Loosen the set screw on the device bar.
2. Insert the gray step gauge (a thickness tool) under the foot.
3. Tighten the screw to lock this new height.

The Physics: By raising the foot, you create a larger vertical gap between the fabric and the cord guide. When the needle stitches the cord down, that extra slack pops up into a uniform loop.

Warning: Collision Hazard
DO NOT lower the needle bar using the electronic control panel while you are manually adjusting the device height. The ZSK manual (and common sense) warns that the driver lever can crash into the needle package if actuated during adjustment. Keep your hands on the screwdriver and your eyes on the needle bar.

If you find yourself constantly adjusting height because the fabric is shifting, look at your stabilization. A magnetic hooping station ensures your fabric starts perfectly flat, so your height adjustments are true deviations, not just compensation for bad hooping.

Switching from Loop Mode to Flat Cording: The “Drop the Foot” Move That Changes the Physics

This device is a hybrid tool. It can do fluffy chenille loops and flat coil stitching.

• The Switch: Loosen the screw -> Let gravity drop the foot flat against the fabric -> Tighten the screw.
• The Result: With no gap under the foot, the cord is pressed firmly against the fabric before the needle hits it. The result is a flat, textured line (like the cassette tape detail in the video).

Production Alert: When you drop the foot, you lose clearance. If maneuvering over bulky seams, be careful. The foot is now skimming the surface and can snag on loose threads or thick appliqué edges.

Operation Checklist (During the run)

• The First 100 Stitches: Keep your hand near the Stop button. Watch the cord feed. Is it jerking?
• Loop Inspection: Pause after 1 inch. Are the loops even? Look for "flat spots" (indicates tension drag).
• Mode Switch: When switching from Loop to Flat, verify you have fully tightened the screw. A loose foot will vibrate and shatter a needle.
• Listen: A rhythmic "thump-thump" is good. A sharp "click-click" means the needle is rubbing the guard. Stop immediately.
  

“My Loops Are Too Low”: A Troubleshooting Logic Tree

Don't guess. Use this logic path to diagnose issues.

The "Shop Floor" Secret: If loops are uneven (some high, some low), it is almost always Hoop Bounce. The fabric is moving up and down "trampolining" inside the hoop. Switch to a more rigid stabilizer (Cutaway) or use a magnetic hoop to grip the material more firmly without distortion.

Fabric + Stabilizer Decision Tree: Stabilization Strategy

Your setup is only as good as your foundation.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
When using strong industrial magnetic hoop systems (like the Mighty Hoop), be aware of the pinch hazard. These magnets are powerful enough to bruise fingers. Pacemaker users should maintain a safe distance (usually 6-12 inches) as per manufacturer warnings.

Scenario A: Patches (Felt/Twill)

• Stabilizer: 1-2 layers of Tearaway usually suffice because the felt is stable.
• Topping: Water-soluble foil is mandatory to keep loops clean.
• Hoop: Standard or Magnetic 5.5".

Scenario B: Leather Jackets / Carhartt / Thick Canvas

• Stabilizer: Cutaway (Mesh or Heavy) to support the weight of the cord.
• Topping: Thin water-soluble topping.
• Hoop: magnetic frames for embroidery machine are crucial here. They prevent hoop burn on the leather and hold the heavy garment without slipping.

Scenario C: T-Shirts / Stretchy Knits

• Don't Do It. Heavy cording on light knits is a recipe for disaster. The fabric cannot support the weight of the cord. If you must, fuse a heavy interfacing to the back of the shirt first.
  

The “Why” Behind The Texture: Why Consistency Sells

The difference between "Homemade Craft" and "Premium Merchandise" is consistency.

1. Uniform Height: Achieved via the step gauge.
2. Clean Feed: Achieved via friction management.
3. Perfect Registration: Achieved via proper hooping.

If you are struggling with registration (the outline missing the patch), investigate your hooping method. Many professionals search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop specifically to solve the registration errors caused by fabric shifting in standard hoops.

The Upgrade Path: From Struggle to Scale

If you love the look of cording but find the setup exhausting, diagnose your pain point to find the right solution.

1. The Pain: "My hands hurt and the jackets have marks."

• Trigger: You are fighting with screws and brackets on thick items.
• Solution: This is a tooling problem. Investing in a mighty hoop starter kit or similar magnetic system eliminates the physical strain and protects the garment.

2. The Pain: "Setup takes longer than sewing."

• Trigger: You spend 5 minutes hooping and 2 minutes stitching.
• Solution: You need a 5.5 mighty hoop and a fixture station. This allows repeatable placement in seconds.

3. The Pain: "I need to do 500 of these by Friday."

• Trigger: Your single-head machine is running 24/7.
• Solution: It is time to scale. A multi-needle platform (like SEWTECH industrial models) allows you to leave the cording device permanently set up on one head while other heads handle standard work. This is how you move from "making cool samples" to "running a profitable business."

Quick Reference: The Data You Need on a Sticky Note

• Needles: #17 (Device), #18 (Stitch).
• Stitch Length: 5.0mm (Start here).
• Density: 2.0mm - 2.5mm spacing.
• Speed: 600 SPM (Max for safety).
• Hoop: 5.5" Magnetic Frame preferred for patches.
• Safety: magnetic embroidery hoops require cautious handling; Watch for pinch points.

Mastering the ZSK Cording Device isn't just about reading the manual—it's about respecting the physics. Listen to your machine, calibrate your friction, and lock down your stabilization. The results will speak for themselves.

FAQ

• Q: How do I set correct loop height on a ZSK Cording Loop Device mounted on Needle 17 with tack-down thread on Needle 18?
  A: Set loop height mechanically by raising the cording foot with the step gauge, not by guessing in software.
  • Stop the machine and loosen the set screw on the device bar.
  • Insert the step gauge under the foot to create a controlled gap, then tighten the screw.
  • Resume at a reduced speed (a safe starting point is 600 SPM) and inspect after about 1 inch.
  • Success check: loops stand up evenly with no “flat spots,” and the cord still pulls through the foot smoothly by hand.
  • If it still fails: check cord drag (spool path and foot hole size) and confirm stitch length is set to 5.0 mm so the cord has room to rise.
• Q: How do I choose the correct ZSK Cording Loop Device foot hole size using the Measurement Plate when chenille cording keeps feeding poorly?
  A: Match cord-to-hole using the Measurement Plate first, because friction is the #1 cause of flat, lifeless loops.
  • Pass the chenille cording through the Measurement Plate hole options before installing anything.
  • Choose the hole that feels like a smooth glide (no catching/drag, not loose wobbling).
  • Install the matching foot hole size and re-check the cord path from spool to foot.
  • Success check: pulling the cord at the foot feels “super easy,” like a loose shoelace, with no snagging sounds.
  • If it still fails: reduce spool drag (ensure the spool spins freely) or move up to the next larger foot hole size.
• Q: How do I prevent needle strike when installing a ZSK Cording Loop Device on Needle 17 (with Needle 18 stitching) and what is the correct washer stack?
  A: Follow the exact washer stack and handwheel-test for clearance before running, because misalignment can cause a needle-to-foot collision.
  • Engage Emergency Stop so the machine cannot start unexpectedly.
  • Stack hardware in order: washer on top → foot → second washer below, then align the foot hole/clearance slot.
  • Turn the handwheel manually to confirm the needle path clears the foot before applying power.
  • Success check: the handwheel turns smoothly with no metal-on-metal “click.”
  • If it still fails: re-center the foot alignment immediately; do not run at speed until the click is gone.
• Q: How do I route thick chenille cording through a ZSK Cording Loop Device so the cord feeds “super easy” instead of flattening the loops?
  A: Bypass thread-style tension thinking—cording must pull with near-zero resistance from spool to foot.
  • Pull the cord by hand at the foot; treat any drag as a setup problem, not a software problem.
  • Re-route through the guides exactly and use the threading wire tool to avoid fraying or snagging at the foot eye.
  • Check the spool stand so the cord unspools freely (heavy spools can create drag).
  • Success check: the cord feeds silently and smoothly, and loops do not get pulled flat during stitching.
  • If it still fails: verify the Measurement Plate match and consider switching to a larger foot hole size.
• Q: What BasePac settings are a safe starting point for faux chenille cording on a ZSK Cording Loop Device to avoid flat loops?
  A: Use a fill stitch that gives the cord “air”: start with 5.0 mm stitch length and 20–25 density points (about 2.0–2.5 mm spacing).
  • Set Fill Stitch with a horizontal stitch direction as the baseline.
  • Set stitch length to 5.0 mm so the cord can arch between needle penetrations.
  • Set density/spacing to 20.00–25.00 points (approx. 2.0–2.5 mm) to avoid over-tacking the cord.
  • Success check: loops look tall and consistent rather than compressed or “stitched flat.”
  • If it still fails: confirm cord feed friction is near zero and avoid high speed; start slower (a safe starting point is 600 SPM).
• Q: How do I stop uneven loop height (high/low spots) on a ZSK Cording Loop Device when faux chenille looks inconsistent across the design?
  A: Treat uneven loops as a hooping/stabilization problem first—hoop bounce (“trampoline effect”) often causes the height to vary.
  • Switch to a more rigid stabilizer strategy (the blog’s guidance points to cutaway when extra support is needed).
  • Add water-soluble foil topping so loops don’t sink and get dragged down by surface texture.
  • Improve holding method on thick items by using a magnetic hoop to reduce bounce without over-crushing the fabric.
  • Success check: loop height stays consistent from the first inch to the last, with no alternating “tall/flat” sections.
  • If it still fails: re-check the step gauge height setting and confirm the cord is gliding freely through the foot.
• Q: What safety steps prevent crashes and pinch injuries when adjusting a ZSK Cording Loop Device and using industrial magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Slow down and isolate hazards: handwheel-test for collisions on the device, and handle magnetic hoops as a pinch hazard (especially around medical implants).
  • Turn the handwheel manually after installation/adjustment; stop immediately if any clicking indicates rubbing or contact.
  • Do not lower the needle bar using electronic controls while manually adjusting device height; keep control of the mechanism during adjustment.
  • Keep fingers clear when closing magnetic hoops; magnets can bruise or pinch, and pacemaker users should keep a safe distance per manufacturer guidance.
  • Success check: no clicking at the needle area during manual rotation, and magnetic hoop closure happens without finger contact in the pinch zone.
  • If it still fails: pause the job and reset the setup from Emergency Stop—do not “test at full speed” after changes.