From PNG to Free-Standing Lace: Building a Clean FSL Snowflake in Floriani FTCU (Without the Usual Auto-Digitizing Traps)

Free-standing lace (FSL) is a deceptively complex art. It looks magical—until you pull it off the machine, wash away the stabilizer, and watch your intricate snowflake dissolve into a limp, stringy mess.

If you’ve ever felt the sting of wasting expensive water-soluble stabilizer, you are not alone. As a veteran in this industry, I often tell new embroiderers that FSL is not drawing; it is civil engineering. You are building a bridge out of thread that must support its own weight without a foundation of fabric.

In this guide, we are going to demystify Jeff’s Floriani FTCU workflow. We will move beyond simple steps and look at the "feel" of the process—the parameters, the sounds of a healthy stitch-out, and the equipment upgrades that turn a frustrating hobby into a reliable production line.

The Structural Mindset: Why Most Snowflakes Fail

Before we click a single mouse button, you must understand the physics of Free-standing Lace. Because there is no fabric, the stabilizer is temporary. Once it’s gone, the stitches must lock into each other.

In Jeff’s proven workflow inside Floriani Total Control U (FTCU), structural integrity comes from a specific "sandwich" of data:

1. The Foundation: A mesh fill that acts like rebar in concrete.
2. The Frame: A satin (Steil) border that locks the mesh edges.
3. The Body: The visible snowflake design, also satin, sitting on top.

The Golden Rule: If you skip the mesh or get the stitch sequence wrong, gravity wins, and your ornament falls apart.

Step 1: Image Selection (The "Garbage In, Garbage Out" Filter)

Jeff begins by searching for a source image. While vector files (SVG) are mathematically cleaner, they often come behind paywalls or complex sign-ups. Jeff opts for a PNG, which is accessible but requires a discerning eye.

The "Clean Scan" Criteria: When selecting your PNG, look for these visual cues to ensure a smooth conversion:

• High Contrast: You want solid black on solid white.
• Hard Edges: Avoid "glow" effects, shadows, or fuzzy pixelated borders. The software converts blur into "confetti stitches" which will jam your machine.
• No Gradients: A snowflake should be one color. Gradients confuse the auto-digitizer.

Action: Jeff right-clicks and uses “Save image as”, storing it in a dedicated folder named “My Scans”.

Warning: Cybersecurity hygiene is critical. When searching for free images, avoid sites effectively forcing you to download "download managers" or .exe files. You only want .PNG, .JPG, or .SVG files.

Step 2: Since Prep is 90% of Success

Auto-digitizing is heavy lifting for your CPU. Before opening the wizard, optimize your environment.

The Hidden Consumables List

Beginners often focus on the software but fail because of the physical setup. Ensure you have:

• Heavyweight Water-Soluble Stabilizer (WSS): For ornaments, film-type (like Badge Master) or a double layer of fibrous wash-away is non-negotiable.
• Sharp Needles (Size 75/11): Do not use ballpoint needles; they can struggle to pierce heavy WSS cleanly.
• Bobbin Thread: Match the bobbin color to the top thread for FSL, so the back looks as good as the front.

Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Digital Hygiene: Close browser tabs and background apps to prevent FTCU from lagging.
• File Safety: Verify your download folder path (e.g., "My Scans").
• Hoop Strategy: Decide on your target hoop now (Jeff uses a 5x7). Resizing after generating dense lace stitches can ruin the density.
• Physical Prep: Ensure your bobbin is fully wound. Running out of bobbin thread in the middle of a delicate lace web is a nightmare to fix.

Step 3: The Wizard & Background Removal

Jeff opens the Auto Digitizing Wizard (purple hat icon) and imports his "snowflake 4" file.

Here is the critical maneuver: removing the background. By default, the software sees the white rectangular background as a shape to be stitched. You must tell it otherwise.

• Action: Click on the background color in the wizard preview.
• Command: Click Remove.
• Sensory Check: The preview might look messy or jagged for a second. This is normal. Trust the process.

The "White Screen" Panic

When the wizard begins converting pixels to vectors, your computer may freeze. You might see a "Not Responding" ghost over the window.

Do. Not. Click.

This is the most common error point. The software is performing complex trigonometric calculations. If you click repeatedly or try to close it, you will crash the program. Take a sip of coffee and wait for the screen to refresh.

Step 4: Color Mapping Cleanup

Once the wizard finishes, you are presented with a list of recognized colors. Jeff simplifies the design to a single structure.

The Elimination Protocol:

1. Locate the White color blocks (background artifacts) -> X them out.
2. Locate the Black color blocks (outlines or noise) -> X them out.
3. Result: Only the Red snowflake structure remains.

Step 5: Resizing & Density Management

The imported design arrives at 8.53" x 8.53", which is too large for a standard ornament 5x7 hoop.

The Fix: Jeff goes to the Properties / Transform tab.

1. Width: Enter 4.9 inches.
2. Height: Enter 4.9 inches.
3. Apply.

Expert Insight: When you resize in FTCU, the software automatically recalculates the stitch count. This is vital. If you simply "shrunk" a stitch file (like a DST), the density would become bulletproof and snap your needles. FTCU keeps the density appropriate for the new size.

Step 6: Stitch Conversion (The Secret Sauce)

Default fill stitches are the enemy of delicate lace. They are bulky and boring. Jeff swaps the stitch type to Steil (a type of Satin stitch).

Paramenters for Success:

• Type: Change Fill to Steil.
• Width: Change from 2.5mm to 2.0mm.

Why 2.0mm? A 2.5mm satin column on a delicate snowflake can look "ropey" and aggressive. A 2.0mm width provides a refined, crystalline look while still being wide enough to hold the structure together.

Step 7: Engineering the Foundation (Offsets)

Now we create the "net" that holds the snowflake together. We cannot just stitch only the snowflake; it needs a bed.

Jeff uses the Create Outlines tool.

• Outline Spacing: 0.25" (6.35mm).
• Layer: One contour.

The Physics of the 0.25" Gap: If you set the spacing to 0, the mesh ends exactly where the satin border begins. This creates a weak seam that will tear. By adding a 0.25" offset, you create an overlap zone where the mesh and border stitch on top of each other, locking the structure into one solid piece.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer Strategy

Selecting the right stabilizer method is often where beginners lose money.

• Scenario A: Free-Standing Lace (Ornaments)
  • Stabilizer: Heavy Water-Soluble (1 layer) OR Fibrous Wash-Away (2 layers).
  • Hooping: Must be "drum tight." No sagging.
  • Base: Requires a Digitized Mesh layer.
• Scenario B: Lace Logic on Fabric (Apparel)
  • Stabilizer: Cutaway (for knits) or Tearaway (for stable woven).
  • Hooping: Float or hoop depending on garment.
  • Base: Mesh layer is optional but adds texture.

If you struggle to hoop water-soluble stabilizer tightly because it is slippery, consider upgrading to hooping for embroidery machine technique aids like double-sided tape or magnetic frames.

Step 8: Sequencing (The Construction Order)

Jeff adjusts the Sequence View to ensure the machine builds the ornament from the ground up.

The Correct Order:

1. Mesh Fill: (Converted from one of the outline copies). Set pattern to Angles (Mesh 08). This is the floor.
2. Border: (The second outline copy). Converted to Steil. This is the frame.
3. Snowflake: (The original design). Converted to Steil (2.0mm). This is the decoration on top.

Why this matters: If you stitch the detailed snowflake first and put the mesh on top, the mesh threads will ruin the clean look of the satin stitches.

Step 9: The "Borrowed Loop" Workflow

Instead of manually digitizing a circle for the hanger, Jeff works smarter.

1. Open Floriani Library.
2. Import a pre-made design with a hanger loop (e.g., December 2020 snowflake).
3. Ungroup the design.
4. Select the loop/eyelet and drag it onto your new snowflake.
5. Delete the rest of the library design.

The Selection Trick: Jeff uses a selection box. In FTCU, a box only selects items fully enclosed within it. By drawing a box around the "garbage" parts while leaving the loop half-outside the box, he can delete the trash without accidentally deleting his new loop.

Troubleshooting: The "Why is this happening?" Guide

The Stitch-Out: Sensory Validation

When you run this file, listen to your machine.

• The Mesh: Should produce a rhythmic, fast humming sound.
• The Satin: Should not sound like it is hammering. If you hear a loud thump-thump-thump, your density is too high or your needle is blunt.

Operation Checklist (The Final Go/No-Go)

• Hoop Check: Is the Water-Soluble Stabilizer tight? If you tap it, does it sound like a drum? (Crucial for FSL registration).
• Bobbin Check: Is the matching bobbin thread loaded?
• Speed Check: Reduce machine speed to ~600-700 SPM for the first run to observe registration.
• Safety Zone: Ensure the design is centered and won't hit the hoop frame.

Warning: Needle Safety. Keep hands clear of the needle bar during operation. FSL often involves high stitch counts and potential needle breaks if the density is too high—wear eye protection if you are running test files at high speeds.

Commercializing Your Craft: The Upgrade Path

Once you master the digital side, the bottleneck shifts to the physical workflow. Slippery water-soluble stabilizer is notorious for "hoop burn" (marks left by standard hoops) or shifting mid-stitch.

1. The Stabilizer Struggle: If you find yourself constantly re-hooping because the stabilizer keeps slipping, look into a magnetic hoop. Unlike screw hoops, magnetic systems clamp straight down, holding slippery WSS perfectly flat without distortion.

2. The Volume Challenge: If you plan to sell these ornaments, hooping 50 individual sheets of stabilizer will wreck your wrists.

• Level 1 Upgrade: A hooping station for embroidery ensures every snowflake is centered exactly the same way, reducing rejects.
• Level 2 Upgrade: Systems like magnetic embroidery hoops allow you to hoop in seconds.
• Level 3 Upgrade: If you are hitting production limits (e.g., spending more time changing threads than stitching), it is time to look at multi-needle machines. SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines allow you to set up 12 colors at once and run continuous batches, turning a hobby into a profit center.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you choose a magnetic frame for embroidery machine, be aware they use powerful neodymium magnets. They constitute a pinch hazard and must be kept away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.

Final Thought

This workflow moves you from "hoping it works" to "knowing it will work." By controlling the foundation (mesh), the frame (border), and the finish (satin), you are no longer just pressing buttons—you are engineering lace. Trust your ear, watch your density, and always, always sample first.

FAQ

• Q: In Floriani Total Control U (FTCU) Auto Digitizing Wizard, why does a snowflake PNG turn into extra stitched shapes like a big white rectangle or random “noise” objects?
  A: Remove the background color and delete the “dirty pixel” color blocks so only the snowflake structure remains.
  • Click the background color in the Wizard preview and click Remove before converting.
  • After the Wizard finishes, open the recognized color list and X out the White blocks (background artifacts) and X out the Black blocks (outline/noise).
  • Recheck that only the intended snowflake color (Jeff keeps only the Red structure) is left.
  • Success check: The preview shows only the snowflake geometry—no filled rectangle behind it and no tiny stray stitch islands.
  • If it still fails: Start over with a higher-contrast PNG (solid black on solid white, no gradients, no glow/blur edges).
• Q: In Floriani Total Control U (FTCU), what should embroiderers do when the Auto Digitizing Wizard shows “Not Responding” or a white screen during conversion?
  A: Do not click or force-close—wait for the conversion to finish because the software is calculating vector paths.
  • Stop clicking the mouse and do not try to close the program window.
  • Wait about 60 seconds (sometimes longer on slower computers) until the screen refreshes.
  • Close browser tabs and background apps before running the Wizard to reduce lag.
  • Success check: The Wizard returns and displays the recognized color list and vectorized shapes without crashing.
  • If it still fails: Reboot the computer, reopen FTCU, and retry with fewer apps running.
• Q: In Free-Standing Lace (FSL) snowflake embroidery, why does the lace fall apart after washing away water-soluble stabilizer, and what is the fastest fix in FTCU?
  A: Add structural overlap by creating an outline offset so the mesh and border stitch over each other (Jeff uses 0.25" / 6.35 mm).
  • Use Create Outlines and set Outline Spacing to 0.25" (6.35mm) with one contour.
  • Convert one outline copy into a mesh fill (Jeff uses Angles (Mesh 08)) as the foundation.
  • Convert the second outline copy into a Steil (satin) border to lock the edges.
  • Success check: After rinsing, the ornament stays rigid and the edges do not separate where the border meets the interior.
  • If it still fails: Verify the stitch order is foundation mesh first, then border, then the decorative snowflake on top.
• Q: In Free-Standing Lace (FSL) ornaments, how can embroiderers tell if water-soluble stabilizer is hooped tight enough before stitching?
  A: Hoop the water-soluble stabilizer “drum tight” so it cannot sag or ripple during stitching.
  • Hoop the heavyweight water-soluble stabilizer (or the double layer wash-away method) with no slack.
  • Tap the hooped stabilizer surface before starting the machine.
  • Reduce machine speed to about 600–700 SPM on the first run to watch for shifting.
  • Success check: Tapping the stabilizer sounds like a drum and the stitch-out stays registered (no drifting outlines).
  • If it still fails: Re-hoop tighter and confirm the hoop size decision was made before digitizing/resizing (Jeff targets 5x7 early).
• Q: In Free-Standing Lace (FSL) snowflake stitch-outs, what are the minimum consumables that most beginners forget (needle, bobbin, stabilizer), and what problems do they prevent?
  A: Use heavyweight water-soluble stabilizer, a fresh sharp 75/11 needle, and matching bobbin thread to prevent shredding, weak lace, and ugly backs.
  • Install a sharp needle size 75/11 (avoid ballpoint for heavy water-soluble stabilizer).
  • Use heavyweight water-soluble stabilizer (film-type like Badge Master, or two layers of fibrous wash-away for ornaments).
  • Load bobbin thread that matches the top thread color so both sides look clean on FSL.
  • Success check: The stabilizer does not shred, the lace holds shape after rinse, and the back does not show contrasting bobbin color.
  • If it still fails: Slow down (Jeff suggests 600 SPM when shredding happens) and replace the needle again if it has dulled.
• Q: In Floriani Total Control U (FTCU) free-standing lace snowflakes, why does the machine sound like “hammering” on satin stitches, and what adjustment is a safe first move?
  A: Treat loud thump-thump satin sounds as a warning—slow down and check density/needle condition (a blunt needle is common).
  • Reduce stitching speed and observe the satin sections closely.
  • Change to a new sharp needle (Jeff points to needle dullness as a common cause of stabilizer damage and rough stitching).
  • Confirm the snowflake satin conversion matches Jeff’s refinement: Steil (satin) with 2.0 mm width for a less “ropey” look.
  • Success check: Mesh sections hum smoothly and satin sections run without heavy pounding noises.
  • If it still fails: Revisit the stitch conversion and sequencing so mesh is not being stitched on top of finished satin details.
• Q: What needle and magnet safety rules should embroiderers follow when stitching high-density Free-Standing Lace (FSL) and when using neodymium magnetic embroidery frames?
  A: Keep hands clear and protect eyes for FSL needle-break risk, and treat magnetic frames as strong pinch hazards that must be kept away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.
  • Keep fingers away from the needle bar area during test runs, especially on high stitch-count lace files.
  • Wear eye protection if sampling dense designs that may cause needle breaks.
  • Handle magnetic frames carefully: keep magnets controlled to avoid pinched skin and sudden snapping.
  • Success check: No near-miss contact with the needle area during operation, and magnets are placed/removed without snapping or trapping fingers.
  • If it still fails: Pause production and re-evaluate density and setup before continuing; follow the machine manual and all magnet safety warnings.
• Q: If water-soluble stabilizer keeps slipping, shifting, or leaving hoop marks during Free-Standing Lace (FSL) ornament production, what is the practical upgrade path from technique fixes to higher throughput?
  A: Start with technique control, then reduce re-hooping time with magnetic clamping, and scale output with multi-needle batching when thread changes become the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (technique): Re-hoop water-soluble stabilizer drum tight, slow to 600–700 SPM on first runs, and ensure the design is centered in the hoop.
  • Level 2 (tool): Switch to a magnetic clamping system to hold slippery water-soluble stabilizer flat with less distortion and faster loading.
  • Level 3 (capacity): Move to a multi-needle workflow when production time is dominated by repeated thread changes instead of stitch time.
  • Success check: Fewer rejects from shifting, fewer re-hoops per batch, and more consistent registration across repeated runs.
  • If it still fails: Audit the file’s foundation/border overlap (0.25" offset) and verify stitch sequence (mesh → border → snowflake) before blaming hardware.