Hatch “Create Outlines and Offsets” for Lettering: Clean Outlines, Fewer Jumps, and a Stitch Path That Actually Makes Sense

If you’ve ever stared at a lettering design and thought, “I could outline this… but I’d be here all night,” you’re exactly who this workflow is for. Outlines can make text look sharper, more readable, and more “finished”—but if you get them wrong, they turn into a nightmare of jump stitches and misaligned registration.

Sue from OML Embroidery demonstrates a fast, repeatable method inside Hatch Embroidery Software: generate outlines automatically, pick the right outline behavior for overlapping letters, and use "Branching" to clean up the stitch order.

But as any veteran embroiderer knows, clicking the button in the software is only 50% of the battle. The other 50% depends on physics—how your machine handles those stitches on real fabric. In this guide, we will walk you through the Hatch workflow, but we will also add the "production floor reality checks" you need to ensure that what looks perfect on screen doesn't turn into a bird's nest on your machine.

Don’t Panic: Hatch Outlines Are Fast—Messy Outlines Are Optional

Outlining sounds like a “digitizer-only” move, but Hatch makes it approachable. The real trick isn’t clicking the tool—it’s choosing the outline behavior that matches lettering, and then fixing the stitch order so your machine isn’t constantly hopping between outside borders and inside holes.

This matters even more when you’re outlining small text (under 15mm or 0.6 inches). Small lettering has less room to hide mistakes: too-wide stitches, too many trims, or poor sequencing will show up immediately.

The Sensory Check: When small lettering is digitized poorly, you will literally hear the machine struggling—it will sound choppy, with frequent "thump-thump-thump" noises as it performs unnecessary trims, rather than the smooth "hum" of continuous stitching.

The “Hidden” Prep: Before You Click Anything

Sue starts by building a simple lettering object first, because outlines are only as clean as the object you’re outlining.

In Hatch:

1. Open the Lettering and Monogramming toolbox.
2. Click the A icon.
3. Type the phrase “OML EMBROIDERY LOVES HATCH” into the text box.
4. Change the lettering color to Red.

Why Red? This isn't just an artistic choice; it's a cognitive aid. Using a high-contrast color like Red for the base and Purple (later) for the outline allows your eyes to instantly detect gaps or alignment issues on the screen that you might miss with low-contrast colors like yellow or heavy blues.

Phase 1 Checklist: The Digital Prep

Perform these checks before you even think about generating an outline.

• Check Visibility: Is the lettering object clearly visible (High contrast color selected)?
• Check Simplicity: Have you finished scaling/resizing the font? (Do not resize after outlining, or the registration may drift).
• Check Intent: Are you aiming for a "Drawn" look (Single Run) or a "Badge" look (Satin)? Rule of thumb: If the text is smaller than a penny, stick to Single Run.

Find the Flower Icon: Opening “Create Outlines and Offsets”

Now the fast part.

Sue goes to:

• Edit Objects toolbox
• Scroll to the bottom
• Click the flower icon labeled Create Outlines and Offsets

A dialog box appears in the center of the screen.

Troubleshooting Tip: If you cannot find this icon, check your Hatch "Product Level." Some lower-tier versions of the software may not include the full advanced editing suite.

Object Outlines vs. Offset Outlines: The Critical Distinction

Inside the dialog, you have two choices. Mixing them up is the #1 reason beginners get confused.

1. Object Outlines: Creates stitches directly on the edge of the letter. (Think: Coloring book lines).
2. Offset Outlines: Creates stitches away from the edge. (Think: Echo or Ripple effect).

For this tutorial, Sue uses Object Outlines (and leaves Offset unchecked). Unless you are trying to attach a patch or create a specific echo effect, always check Object Outlines for standard text.

Individual vs. Common vs. Trimmed: Solving the "Script Font" Problem

This is where most beginners accidentally create messy overlaps.

Sue explains the three outline behaviors shown by the icons:

• Individual Outlines: Every object gets a full outline. Bad for cursive. It will outline the tail of the 'a' inside the 'b' where they connect.
• Common Outlines: Intersecting outlines are welded/combined. Perfect for cursive. It traces the outer perimeter of the whole word shape.
• Trimmed Outlines: Overlap portions are trimmed by overlapping objects.

The Expert Recommendation: For lettering—especially anything connected or "scripty"—always maximize your success rate by choosing the middle icon: Common Outlines. This prevents the machine from stitching over the same spot twice (which creates lumps) and keeps the outline definition clean.

The Clean Setup: Single Run + Purple + Common Outlines

In the same dialog, Sue configures the outline. This is a "Gold Standard" setup for beginners:

1. Check Object Outlines (Uncheck Offset).
2. Select Single Run stitch type.
3. Choose Purple as the outline color (again, for contrast).
4. Select Common Outlines (middle icon).
5. Click OK.

Expected outcome: Hatch generates a purple outline that traces the red lettering perfectly.

Phase 2 Checklist: The Tool Setup

Verify these settings to ensure the software calculates the path correctly.

• Object Outlines is Checked? (Yes).
• Stitch Type implies "Clean": Is it set to Single Run (or Backstitch for thicker lines)?
• Weld Behavior: Is Common Outlines selected for touching letters?
• Visual Check: Can you clearly distinguish the outline color from the text color?

Inspect Like a Pro: Zoom In (The " Pixel Peeping" Step)

Sue zooms in to inspect the result and calls it “perfect.” That zoom step is not optional.

When you zoom in to 600% or 800%, you are looking for "Node Spikes." Sometimes, automated tools create sharp, jagged spikes at the corners of letters. If you see these on screen, your machine needle will try to stitch them, likely resulting in a thread break. If you see smooth curves, you are safe to proceed.

Changing Stitch Types: Why "Satin" Can Betray You

Sue selects specific outline segments (she clicks the outside of the “O”) and then changes stitch types in Object Properties.

She experiments with:

• Backstitch: Looks robust, good for definition.
• Stemstitch: Gives a twisted, rope-like appearance.
• Zigzag: Wider, decorative.
• Satin: "Way too small."

The Physics of the "Satin" Mistake: Sue mentions Satin is "too small" for this size. Here is the technical reality: A satin column needs to be at least 1.5mm wide to sew cleanly with a standard #40 weight thread. If you force a narrow satin outline (e.g., 0.8mm) on small text, the needle penetrations are so close together that they will shred the fabric and likely snap the needle.

Rule of Thumb: If the outline width is under 1.5mm, stick to Single Run or Triple Run (Bean Stitch).

Warning: Physical Safety
When testing wider stitch types (Zigzag or Satin), always run a Stitch Simulation. If you see the stitches piling up on top of each other on screen, DO NOT SEW IT. Densely packed stitches on small text can cause a "Bird's Nest" in the bobbin area, potentially jamming the machine or breaking the needle plate.

The Real Problem: The "Jump Stitch Festival"

Sue points out the sequencing issue you’ll often see after generating outlines:

1. Hatch stitches the outside of the 'O'.
2. Then it cuts the thread.
3. Then it jumps to the inside of the 'O'.

This creates "tons of jump stitches." On a single-needle machine, this means you are sitting there trimming manual cuts for 20 minutes. On a multi-needle machine, it adds unnecessary wear to the trimmer mechanism.

The Fix: Hatch Branching (The GPS for Your Needle)

Branching is Hatch's way of calculating the "Shortest Path" (similar to a GPS finding the fastest route home). It combines separate objects into one efficient run.

Sue’s Workflow:

1. Open the Sequence docker.
2. Click the top outline object.
3. Hold Shift and Click the bottom outline object (Selecting all outline parts).
4. Go to Edit Objects.
5. Click Branching.
6. Wait: Let Hatch calculate (it may take a few seconds).

The Result of Branching

• Before: Stitch Outside -> Trim -> Stitch Inside -> Trim -> Move to next letter.
• After: Stitch Outside -> Travel smoothly to Inside -> Stitch Inside -> Travel to next letter.
• Benefit: Reduces potential trims by 50-70%, drastically speeding up your production time.

Verification: The Stitch Player (Catch Expensive Mistakes for Free)

Sue checks the result by watching the stitch-out in the Stitch Player. She specifically watches the purple outline to ensure the machine flows from the L to the E to the B logically.

Phase 3 Checklist: The Operation Check

Before exporting to .DST or .PES, check these final points:

• Logic Check: In Stitch Player, does the needle move sequentially (Left to Right)?
• Jump Check: Are the long, cross-design dashed lines (jumps) mostly gone?
• Density Check: Did you avoid Satin stitches on tiny letters?
• Consumable Check: Hidden Requirement: Do you have a 75/11 needle? (Sharper points help with precise outlines).

Decision Tree: Matching Strategy to Material

A file that sews perfectly on denim might fail on a t-shirt. Use this logic gate to decide your final settings.

1. Is the lettering Small (<15mm) or Large (>25mm)?

• Small: MUST use Single Run or Backstitch.
• Large: Can experiment with Satin or Zigzag.

2. Is the Fabric Stable (Denim/Twill) or Stretchy (Polo/Tee)?

• Stable: Standard Cutaway stabilizer is fine.
• Stretchy: Requires Heavy Cutaway + Water Soluble Topper (Solvy).
• Why? Outlines on stretchy fabric tend to drift. The Topper keeps the stitches floating on top rather than sinking in, preventing the outline from disappearing.

3. Are outlines failing to line up (Registration Issues)?

• Symptom: The outline sits 1mm to the right of the letter.

The Troubleshooting Corner: "I Don't Have That Tool"

One viewer asked: “I don’t have that tool, is there a new tool today?”

In practice, if you cannot find Create Outlines and Offsets, it is usually:

1. Wrong Toolbox: Ensure you are in Edit Objects.
2. Wrong Level: Hatch "Digitizer" level has more tools than "Personalizer" or "Composer."
3. Selected Object: You must have the lettering selected first for the tool to light up.

The Upgrade Path: From "Struggling" to "Scaling"

Software is only the beginning. If you are mastering outlines because you are starting to take orders for team shirts, uniforms, or name patches, you will quickly hit a physical bottleneck: Hooping.

If your workflow is "Hoop -> Stitch -> Struggle to un-hoop -> Repeat," software tricks won't save your wrists or your timeline.

• Level 1: Stability Upgrade. If you struggle with placement accuracy (e.g., getting the name exactly straight on the left chest), consider a jig-based system. A hooping station for machine embroidery allows you to preset the placement so every shirt is identical.
• Level 2: The Hoop Upgrade. Traditional screw-tightened hoops are the enemy of production speed and can cause "Hoop Burn" (shiny rings on the fabric). This is where magnetic embroidery hoops shine. They simply snap onto the garment, holding thick seams or delicate fabrics firmly without the "tug-of-war." Professionals often search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop videos to see just how much faster the load time is.
• Level 3: The Production Upgrade. If you are doing volume, systems like the hoop master embroidery hooping station (often referred to simply as the hoop master or hoopmaster) combined with magnetic frames can cut your setup time by 50%.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
magnetic embroidery hoops use industrial-grade magnets. They are incredibly strong.
* Pinch Hazard: Never place your fingers between the top and bottom frames. They snap together with enough force to cause injury.
* Medical Safety: Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers.
* Storage: Store them with the provided spacers to prevent them from locking together permanently.

Finally, if you find that you are spending more time changing threads than actually sewing, or if your outlines are drifting because of constant re-threading on a single-needle machine, it might be time to look at the machinery itself. SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines are built for this exact transition—allowing you to set up the text color and the outline color once, and let the machine handle the swaps automatically.

Final Reality Check

Sue closes by reminding you this doesn't have to be lettering—you can outline "any kind of object" inside Hatch.

But here is the "Chief Education Officer" takeaway: Outlining is a stress test for your embroidery skills. It requires a good file (Hatch), good stabilization (Cutaway/Solvy), and precise hooping.

Your Recipe for Success:

1. Create Outlines (Object Outline).
2. Weld them (Common Outlines).
3. Optimize them (Branching).
4. Stabilize them (Heavy Cutaway for outlines).
5. Hoop them (Magnetic hoops for tension consistency).

Do this, and your outlines will stop looking like "amateur hour" and start looking like a high-end brand.

FAQ

• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Software, why is the “Create Outlines and Offsets” flower icon missing or greyed out when outlining lettering objects?
  A: This usually happens because the lettering object is not selected, the wrong toolbox is open, or the Hatch product level does not include the tool.
  • Select: Click the lettering object first so Hatch can enable outline tools for that object.
  • Switch: Open the Edit Objects toolbox and scroll to the bottom to find Create Outlines and Offsets.
  • Verify: Check the Hatch “Product Level” (some lower-tier levels may not include advanced editing tools).
  • Success check: The flower icon becomes clickable and the outline dialog opens in the center of the screen.
  • If it still fails: Reconfirm the object is true Hatch lettering (not already converted stitches) and consult the Hatch feature list for the installed level.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Software, which outline mode should be used to prevent messy overlaps when outlining connected script fonts: Individual Outlines, Common Outlines, or Trimmed Outlines?
  A: Use Common Outlines for connected or overlapping script lettering to avoid double-stitching and lumps where letters touch.
  • Choose: In the outline dialog, select the middle icon (Common Outlines).
  • Set: Keep Object Outlines checked (not Offset) for standard text outlining.
  • Inspect: Zoom in and confirm the outline traces the outer perimeter cleanly rather than outlining inside overlaps.
  • Success check: The outline forms one clean perimeter around the connected word, without extra outlines stitched inside joins.
  • If it still fails: Recheck that the letters are actually touching/overlapping as expected; then rerun the outline with Common Outlines again.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Software, what stitch type should be used for outlining small lettering under 15 mm to avoid dense stitching problems and poor results?
  A: For small text under 15 mm, a safe choice is Single Run (or Backstitch/Triple Run for a thicker line) and avoid forcing narrow Satin outlines.
  • Set: Choose Single Run for the outline as the “clean” starting point for small lettering.
  • Avoid: Do not use Satin when the outline is very narrow; satin columns need enough width to sew cleanly.
  • Simulate: Run a stitch simulation before sewing if testing wider or denser stitch types.
  • Success check: The machine sews the outline with a smooth, continuous “hum” instead of choppy stop-start trimming.
  • If it still fails: Reduce outline complexity (simpler stitch type) and re-check stabilization and hooping tension before changing more software settings.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery Software, how can Branching reduce excessive jump stitches when outlining letters like “O” that have inside holes?
  A: Use Branching to combine outline pieces into a more efficient stitch path, reducing trims and long jumps.
  • Open: Go to the Sequence docker.
  • Select: Click the top outline object, then Shift-click the bottom outline object to select all outline parts.
  • Apply: Go to Edit Objects → Branching and wait for Hatch to calculate the shortest path.
  • Success check: In Stitch Player, the outline travels smoothly from outside to inside areas with far fewer long dashed jump lines.
  • If it still fails: Rewatch the Stitch Player and confirm all outline segments were selected before Branching was applied.
• Q: When embroidery outlines shift about 1 mm off the lettering on stretchy polo shirts or t-shirts, what stabilizer stack should be used to reduce registration drift?
  A: On stretchy fabrics, use Heavy Cutaway stabilizer + Water Soluble Topper (Solvy) to help outlines stay visible and aligned.
  • Stabilize: Add Heavy Cutaway underneath to resist stretch during stitching.
  • Top: Add Water Soluble Topper on top to prevent stitches from sinking into the knit.
  • Hoop: Hoop “drum-skin tight” to reduce fabric movement during outlining.
  • Success check: The outline stays centered on the lettering and does not “disappear” into the fabric surface after stitching.
  • If it still fails: Treat it as a hooping/stabilization issue first (tighten hooping or add adhesive spray) before changing the digitizing.
• Q: What is the safety risk of sewing dense Satin or Zigzag outlines on tiny lettering, and what is the safest pre-sew check in Hatch Embroidery Software?
  A: Dense stitches on tiny text can trigger a bird’s nest in the bobbin area and may jam the machine or break needles/parts, so always run Stitch Simulation first.
  • Simulate: Run Stitch Simulation before sewing any wider/dense outline stitch type.
  • Stop: Do not sew if simulation shows stitches piling on top of each other in small areas.
  • Simplify: Switch back to Single Run (or a lighter outline style) for small lettering.
  • Success check: Simulation shows clean spacing with no obvious “stacking” in corners or tight curves.
  • If it still fails: Reduce density/width by choosing a lighter stitch type and re-check the design size (small text has very little tolerance).
• Q: What are the safety rules for using magnetic embroidery hoops for faster hooping without hoop burn and pinch injuries?
  A: Magnetic embroidery hoops can speed loading and reduce hoop burn, but the magnets are strong—protect fingers, medical devices, and storage safety.
  • Keep hands safe: Never place fingers between the top and bottom frames when closing the hoop (pinch hazard).
  • Protect medical devices: Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers.
  • Store correctly: Store magnetic hoops with the provided spacers to prevent them from locking together.
  • Success check: The hoop closes securely without a “fight,” and fabric is held consistently without shiny hoop-burn rings.
  • If it still fails: If the fabric still marks or shifts, treat it as a hooping-tension/stabilization issue and test a different stabilizer stack before increasing stitch density.