Table of Contents
- Primer: What this workflow achieves (and when to use it)
- Prep: Files, tools, and what to check first
- Setup: Smart configurations before you stitch
- Operation: Step-by-step digitizing and layout
- Quality Checks: Validate before you export
- Results & Handoff: Save and export cleanly
- Troubleshooting & Recovery: Fixes for common snags
Video reference: “A Play About in Hatch Embroidery Digitizing Software” by GentlemanCrafter
A single flourish can bloom into a showpiece. In this guided build, you’ll turn a simple artwork into a symmetrical, stitch-efficient circular motif—complete with graceful Redwork pathing, a textured center, and a clean outer outline.
What you’ll learn
- How to digitize closed (filled) and open (outline) shapes for a flourish motif
- How to control fill direction using stitch angles for believable flow
- How to use Redwork and Circle Layout to create a clean circular composition
- How to add decorative contour fills, offsets, and branching for a polished, practical stitch-out
- How to review with Stitch Player and export a PES for stitching
Primer: What this workflow achieves (and when to use it) A flourish motif is a perfect “building block” for circular compositions. By digitizing just a few shapes—two filled finials and two open swirls—you can replicate and arrange them into a wreath-like centerpiece. This approach is efficient (minimal art prep), flexible (mirroring and repetition), and stitch-friendly when combined with Redwork and branching.
When to use it
- You have a simple flourish artwork and want a complex-looking result without tedious tracing.
- You prefer outline-forward aesthetics (Redwork) with a touch of texture in the center.
- You want an arrangement that sews in a logical path with minimal jumps.
Constraints worth noting
- Fill directions matter: Tatami angle changes can transform how highlights and shadows read on curved finials.
- Layout choices (repetitions, mirroring) can become visually busy—judicious edits prevent clutter.
- Branching reduces jumps, but a few may remain; final checks still matter.
Prep: Files, tools, and what to check first Tools and features used
- Hatch Embroidery Digitizing Software
- Digitize Closed Shape and Digitize Open Shape tools
- Stitch angle controls (orange handles)
- Redwork feature and Stitch Player
- Circle Layout with optional mirroring
- Create Outlines and Offsets
- Branching and export as PES
Input file
- A pre-prepared flourish artwork (e.g., flourish.png)
Environment checks
- Open a new design; confirm hoop view and comfortable zoom level.
- Ensure artwork is visible and scalable.
- Decide your initial size target before tracing to reduce later edits. hooping station for embroidery
Quick check
- Can you clearly see finial edges and swirl paths at your working zoom? If not, zoom in before you trace.
Prep checklist
- Artwork imported and sized for your design intent
- Hoop area visible; zoom set
- Digitize tools ready; colors available
Setup: Smart configurations before you stitch Color and fill decisions for finials
- Use Tatami for the finials and set a consistent color (purple in the reference). This creates a visual anchor.
- Plan to adjust stitch angles so the fill direction follows each finial’s form.
Why stitch angles matter
- Angles guide texture and sheen. On curved finials, angling “up the finial” sells the form and reduces awkward cross-grain texture.
Redwork planning
- Redwork can connect multiple outlines into a single continuous path. Keep potential entry/exit points in mind as you place shapes; you’ll resolve the pathing later with Redwork and Branching.
Setup checklist
- Finial fill type chosen (Tatami)
- Color set
- Angle-adjustment plan noted for each finial
Operation: Step-by-step digitizing and layout 1) Digitize the closed finials (Tatami)
- Select Digitize Closed Shape.
- Left-click to start; right-click around curves for smooth points; press Enter twice to commit.
- Set the fill to Tatami in your chosen color.
- Adjust stitch angle using the orange handles; angle “up” the finial for natural flow.
Expected result: Two filled finials in purple, with Tatami flowing along each finial’s curve.
Watch out
- If the stitch angle cuts across a finial’s length, texture will look blocky. Re-adjust handles until the direction complements the shape’s long axis. magnetic embroidery hoop
2) Digitize the open swirls (Single Run)
- Choose Digitize Open Shape.
- Start just inside a finial tip and right-click along the swirl to place curved nodes; press Enter to finish.
- Repeat for the second swirl.
- Remove the background artwork to keep the workspace clean.
Expected result: Two Single Run swirl outlines that visually connect with the finials.
Pro tip
- Start and stop slightly inside finial edges so Redwork can bridge connections more gracefully.
3) Apply Redwork to unify the motif
- Select all digitized objects and rotate slightly to taste.
- Apply Redwork and confirm entries/exits. Preview in Stitch Player.
Expected result: A single Redwork object connecting finials and swirls into a coherent outline path.
Quick check
- Stitch Player should reveal a smooth path with minimal backtracking.
4) Build the circular composition (Circle Layout)
- With the Redwork object selected, choose Circle Layout.
- Try a higher repetition (e.g., 12) and toggle Mirror on/off to compare aesthetics.
- Reduce repetitions to avoid clutter if needed; then center the design.
Expected result: A symmetrical circular arrangement of the flourish, balanced and readable.
Watch out
- Too many repeats or mirrored pairs can create visual knots. Reduce counts or turn off Mirroring until the negative space returns.
5) Add a central connecting circle and re-apply Redwork
- Draw a circle centered in the design so it meets the inner ends of the repeated elements; press Enter twice.
- Select everything and apply Redwork again so the center circle is included.
- Preview with Stitch Player.
Expected result: The entire composition, including center circle, behaves as a single Redwork path.
Quick check
- Entry/exit points shouldn’t cause unnecessary jumps; if you see awkward travel, nudge the circle size and reapply.
6) Add decorative central fill (Contour)
- Create another center circle for decoration.
- Align to center. Test Ripple, then Contour for texture. Adjust spacing and angle.
- Choose Contour with tighter spacing (e.g., around 0.05 in) for a refined look.
Expected result: A textured central disc that complements the outline style.
Pro tip
- Small spacing changes dramatically alter the texture. Use Stitch Player to preview thread paths before committing. dime snap hoop
7) Layer, mirror, and recolor the central fill
- Duplicate the contour-filled circle.
- Mirror X, recolor to a lighter tone, send to back, and shrink slightly.
Expected result: Two layered contour fills with subtle contrast and depth.
Quick check
- The mirrored layer should nest neatly under the main disc without awkward overlaps.
8) Create an outer decorative outline (Offsets)
- Select the design and choose Create Outlines and Offsets.
- Use an offset distance around 1/16 in (0.0625 in) with Individual Offsets and a lighter color.
- Delete any inner offset you don’t need (for example, an extra central ring) and keep the outer frame.
Expected result: A clean border that frames, rather than fights, the main motif.
Watch out
- Multiple offsets can crowd the design. Start with one; add more only if the border still feels sparse. magnetic hoops for embroidery
9) Optimize the sew order with Branching and review
- Select all and apply Branching to reduce jumps.
- Run Stitch Player; accept minor jumps if the overall flow is strong.
Expected result: A practical stitch sequence with minimal jumps.
Pro tip
- If a jump persists in a visually sensitive spot, slightly edit connector positions, re-apply Redwork, then Branch again.
Quality Checks: Validate before you export Pathing sanity check
- Use Stitch Player to confirm the design stitches in a smooth, continuous order.
- Look for unnecessary color changes or direction reversals.
Fill quality
- Ensure contour spacing in the center isn’t overly dense.
- Check that Tatami angles on finials enhance curvature rather than flattening it.
Layout balance
- Confirm that circle repetitions and mirroring preserve clear negative space.
- Outer offset should frame the shape; if it competes, adjust the distance and reapply.
Quick check
- If you can follow the stitch path mentally without confusion, the machine will likely stitch it cleanly too. embroidery machine for beginners
Results & Handoff: Save and export cleanly Save your working file, then export to PES for stitching.
- Save the native design first.
- Export as PES for your embroidery machine.
Expected result: A PES file that mirrors your pathing and settings.
From software to fabric
- On first stitch-out, expect to discover a jump or two. That’s normal—log them, then adjust Redwork or Branching and re-export.
Troubleshooting & Recovery: Fixes for common snags Symptom: Finial fills look “flat” or fight the curve
- Likely cause: Stitch angle not aligned to the finial’s flow.
- Fix: Use the orange handles to rotate the angle so stitches travel along each finial.
Symptom: Swirls don’t connect well after Redwork
- Likely cause: Start/stop points too far apart.
- Fix: Start/stop slightly inside finials and re-apply Redwork; consider a subtle reposition.
Symptom: Circular layout looks cramped
- Likely cause: Too many repetitions or mirroring conflicts.
- Fix: Reduce repeats, disable mirroring, and re-center.
Symptom: Too many jump stitches even after Branching
- Likely cause: Distant elements or tight turns.
- Fix: Slightly increase connecting distances, re-apply Redwork, then Branch again; rerun Stitch Player.
Symptom: Outer offset crowds the design
- Likely cause: Offset distance too small.
- Fix: Increase to a slightly larger value; keep just one offset for clarity. brother embroidery machine
Operation checklist (one-glance)
- Closed finials digitized with Tatami; stitch angles refined
- Swirls digitized as Single Run; artwork removed
- Redwork applied → Circle Layout tuned → Center circle added
- Decorative center fill set to Contour at suitable spacing
- Duplicate/mirror/recolor center disc for depth
- Outer offset added; extras deleted; color adjusted
- Branching applied; Stitch Player reviewed
- Saved and exported to PES
From the comments
- Reader feedback praised the clarity and the resulting design aesthetic, reinforcing that the step sequence leads to a clean, attractive stitch-out.
Related gear to explore
- For stabilizing and hooping workflows, you may find value in researching accessories such as mighty hoop 5.5 or broader options like magnetic hoops for embroidery. If you’re comparing systems, take a look at embroidery machine for beginners guides, or accessory roundups that reference dime snap hoop solutions. When organizing your workspace, consider a hooping station for embroidery to speed repetitive setups. For machine compatibility topics, general buyer’s guides often reference models like a brother embroidery machine alongside other brands.
