From Flourish to Fancy: Digitizing a Circular Embroidery Design in Hatch

· EmbroideryHoop
From Flourish to Fancy: Digitizing a Circular Embroidery Design in Hatch
Turn a simple flourish into a polished, stitch-ready circular motif in Hatch Embroidery Digitizing Software. This guide walks you from importing artwork to closed/open shape digitizing, Redwork pathing, circle layouts, decorative contour fills, offsets, branching to reduce jumps, and finally exporting a PES file—plus practical checklists and quality checks along the way.

Educational commentary only. This page is an educational study note and commentary on the original creator’s work. All rights remain with the original creator; no re-upload or redistribution.

Please watch the original video on the creator’s channel and subscribe to support more tutorials—your one click helps fund clearer step-by-step demos, better camera angles, and real-world tests. Tap the Subscribe button below to cheer them on.

If you are the creator and would like us to adjust, add sources, or remove any part of this summary, please reach out via the site’s contact form and we’ll respond promptly.

Table of Contents
  1. Primer: What this workflow achieves (and when to use it)
  2. Prep: Files, tools, and what to check first
  3. Setup: Smart configurations before you stitch
  4. Operation: Step-by-step digitizing and layout
  5. Quality Checks: Validate before you export
  6. Results & Handoff: Save and export cleanly
  7. Troubleshooting & Recovery: Fixes for common snags

Video reference: “A Play About in Hatch Embroidery Digitizing Software” by GentlemanCrafter

A single flourish can bloom into a showpiece. In this guided build, you’ll turn a simple artwork into a symmetrical, stitch-efficient circular motif—complete with graceful Redwork pathing, a textured center, and a clean outer outline.

What you’ll learn

  • How to digitize closed (filled) and open (outline) shapes for a flourish motif
  • How to control fill direction using stitch angles for believable flow
  • How to use Redwork and Circle Layout to create a clean circular composition
  • How to add decorative contour fills, offsets, and branching for a polished, practical stitch-out
  • How to review with Stitch Player and export a PES for stitching

Primer: What this workflow achieves (and when to use it) A flourish motif is a perfect “building block” for circular compositions. By digitizing just a few shapes—two filled finials and two open swirls—you can replicate and arrange them into a wreath-like centerpiece. This approach is efficient (minimal art prep), flexible (mirroring and repetition), and stitch-friendly when combined with Redwork and branching.

When to use it

  • You have a simple flourish artwork and want a complex-looking result without tedious tracing.
  • You prefer outline-forward aesthetics (Redwork) with a touch of texture in the center.
  • You want an arrangement that sews in a logical path with minimal jumps.

Constraints worth noting

  • Fill directions matter: Tatami angle changes can transform how highlights and shadows read on curved finials.
  • Layout choices (repetitions, mirroring) can become visually busy—judicious edits prevent clutter.
  • Branching reduces jumps, but a few may remain; final checks still matter.

Prep: Files, tools, and what to check first Tools and features used

  • Hatch Embroidery Digitizing Software
  • Digitize Closed Shape and Digitize Open Shape tools
  • Stitch angle controls (orange handles)
  • Redwork feature and Stitch Player
  • Circle Layout with optional mirroring
  • Create Outlines and Offsets
  • Branching and export as PES

Input file

  • A pre-prepared flourish artwork (e.g., flourish.png)

Environment checks

  • Open a new design; confirm hoop view and comfortable zoom level.
  • Ensure artwork is visible and scalable.

Quick check

  • Can you clearly see finial edges and swirl paths at your working zoom? If not, zoom in before you trace.

Prep checklist

  • Artwork imported and sized for your design intent
  • Hoop area visible; zoom set
  • Digitize tools ready; colors available

Setup: Smart configurations before you stitch Color and fill decisions for finials

  • Use Tatami for the finials and set a consistent color (purple in the reference). This creates a visual anchor.
  • Plan to adjust stitch angles so the fill direction follows each finial’s form.

Why stitch angles matter

  • Angles guide texture and sheen. On curved finials, angling “up the finial” sells the form and reduces awkward cross-grain texture.

Redwork planning

  • Redwork can connect multiple outlines into a single continuous path. Keep potential entry/exit points in mind as you place shapes; you’ll resolve the pathing later with Redwork and Branching.

Setup checklist

  • Finial fill type chosen (Tatami)
  • Color set
  • Angle-adjustment plan noted for each finial

Operation: Step-by-step digitizing and layout 1) Digitize the closed finials (Tatami)

  • Select Digitize Closed Shape.
  • Left-click to start; right-click around curves for smooth points; press Enter twice to commit.
  • Set the fill to Tatami in your chosen color.
  • Adjust stitch angle using the orange handles; angle “up” the finial for natural flow.

Expected result: Two filled finials in purple, with Tatami flowing along each finial’s curve.

Watch out

  • If the stitch angle cuts across a finial’s length, texture will look blocky. Re-adjust handles until the direction complements the shape’s long axis. magnetic embroidery hoop

2) Digitize the open swirls (Single Run)

  • Choose Digitize Open Shape.
  • Start just inside a finial tip and right-click along the swirl to place curved nodes; press Enter to finish.
  • Repeat for the second swirl.
  • Remove the background artwork to keep the workspace clean.

Expected result: Two Single Run swirl outlines that visually connect with the finials.

Pro tip

  • Start and stop slightly inside finial edges so Redwork can bridge connections more gracefully.

3) Apply Redwork to unify the motif

  • Select all digitized objects and rotate slightly to taste.
  • Apply Redwork and confirm entries/exits. Preview in Stitch Player.

Expected result: A single Redwork object connecting finials and swirls into a coherent outline path.

Quick check

  • Stitch Player should reveal a smooth path with minimal backtracking.

4) Build the circular composition (Circle Layout)

  • With the Redwork object selected, choose Circle Layout.
  • Try a higher repetition (e.g., 12) and toggle Mirror on/off to compare aesthetics.
  • Reduce repetitions to avoid clutter if needed; then center the design.

Expected result: A symmetrical circular arrangement of the flourish, balanced and readable.

Watch out

  • Too many repeats or mirrored pairs can create visual knots. Reduce counts or turn off Mirroring until the negative space returns.

5) Add a central connecting circle and re-apply Redwork

  • Draw a circle centered in the design so it meets the inner ends of the repeated elements; press Enter twice.
  • Select everything and apply Redwork again so the center circle is included.
  • Preview with Stitch Player.

Expected result: The entire composition, including center circle, behaves as a single Redwork path.

Quick check

  • Entry/exit points shouldn’t cause unnecessary jumps; if you see awkward travel, nudge the circle size and reapply.

6) Add decorative central fill (Contour)

  • Create another center circle for decoration.
  • Align to center. Test Ripple, then Contour for texture. Adjust spacing and angle.
  • Choose Contour with tighter spacing (e.g., around 0.05 in) for a refined look.

Expected result: A textured central disc that complements the outline style.

Pro tip

  • Small spacing changes dramatically alter the texture. Use Stitch Player to preview thread paths before committing. dime snap hoop

7) Layer, mirror, and recolor the central fill

  • Duplicate the contour-filled circle.
  • Mirror X, recolor to a lighter tone, send to back, and shrink slightly.

Expected result: Two layered contour fills with subtle contrast and depth.

Quick check

  • The mirrored layer should nest neatly under the main disc without awkward overlaps.

8) Create an outer decorative outline (Offsets)

  • Select the design and choose Create Outlines and Offsets.
  • Use an offset distance around 1/16 in (0.0625 in) with Individual Offsets and a lighter color.
  • Delete any inner offset you don’t need (for example, an extra central ring) and keep the outer frame.

Expected result: A clean border that frames, rather than fights, the main motif.

Watch out

9) Optimize the sew order with Branching and review

  • Select all and apply Branching to reduce jumps.
  • Run Stitch Player; accept minor jumps if the overall flow is strong.

Expected result: A practical stitch sequence with minimal jumps.

Pro tip

  • If a jump persists in a visually sensitive spot, slightly edit connector positions, re-apply Redwork, then Branch again.

Quality Checks: Validate before you export Pathing sanity check

  • Use Stitch Player to confirm the design stitches in a smooth, continuous order.
  • Look for unnecessary color changes or direction reversals.

Fill quality

  • Ensure contour spacing in the center isn’t overly dense.
  • Check that Tatami angles on finials enhance curvature rather than flattening it.

Layout balance

  • Confirm that circle repetitions and mirroring preserve clear negative space.
  • Outer offset should frame the shape; if it competes, adjust the distance and reapply.

Quick check

Results & Handoff: Save and export cleanly Save your working file, then export to PES for stitching.

  • Save the native design first.
  • Export as PES for your embroidery machine.

Expected result: A PES file that mirrors your pathing and settings.

From software to fabric

  • On first stitch-out, expect to discover a jump or two. That’s normal—log them, then adjust Redwork or Branching and re-export.

Troubleshooting & Recovery: Fixes for common snags Symptom: Finial fills look “flat” or fight the curve

  • Likely cause: Stitch angle not aligned to the finial’s flow.
  • Fix: Use the orange handles to rotate the angle so stitches travel along each finial.

Symptom: Swirls don’t connect well after Redwork

  • Likely cause: Start/stop points too far apart.
  • Fix: Start/stop slightly inside finials and re-apply Redwork; consider a subtle reposition.

Symptom: Circular layout looks cramped

  • Likely cause: Too many repetitions or mirroring conflicts.
  • Fix: Reduce repeats, disable mirroring, and re-center.

Symptom: Too many jump stitches even after Branching

  • Likely cause: Distant elements or tight turns.
  • Fix: Slightly increase connecting distances, re-apply Redwork, then Branch again; rerun Stitch Player.

Symptom: Outer offset crowds the design

  • Likely cause: Offset distance too small.

Operation checklist (one-glance)

  • Closed finials digitized with Tatami; stitch angles refined
  • Swirls digitized as Single Run; artwork removed
  • Redwork applied → Circle Layout tuned → Center circle added
  • Decorative center fill set to Contour at suitable spacing
  • Duplicate/mirror/recolor center disc for depth
  • Outer offset added; extras deleted; color adjusted
  • Branching applied; Stitch Player reviewed
  • Saved and exported to PES

From the comments

  • Reader feedback praised the clarity and the resulting design aesthetic, reinforcing that the step sequence leads to a clean, attractive stitch-out.

Related gear to explore