Table of Contents
- Primer: What this technique does (and when to use it)
- Prep: Materials, tools, and files
- Setup: Layering, basting, and accurate marking
- Operation: Stitch–cut–repeat (the reverse applique workflow)
- Quality checks: Spot-on alignment and clean reveals
- Results & handoff: Wash, block, frame, or sew on
- Troubleshooting & recovery: Alignment, puckers, and safe cutting
- From the comments: Community tips that change the game
Video reference: “Hoffman Dream Big Panel Embroidery Tutorial - Stitch Delight” by StitchDelightTV
A single panel, one top fabric, and your embroidery machine—that’s all it takes to turn a printed flower into a luminous rose-window showpiece. This guide distills the full process into a precise, repeatable workflow so you can stitch with confidence and finish with polish.
What you’ll learn
- The reverse applique approach for large fabric panels (what it is and why it works)
- Which stabilizer setups produce stable, pucker-free results
- How to mark a clean radial grid that guarantees alignment
- Smart hooping and alignment using magnetic frames and templates
- Safe cutting techniques for crisp reveals and neat edges
Primer: What this technique does (and when to use it) Reverse applique stitches the design outline through a top fabric plus your panel, then removes the top fabric within the stitched outline to reveal color beneath. It’s ideal for bold printed panels like the Hoffman Dream Big Rose—your stitches sculpt the print into structured petals and windows.
Use cases
- Wall art: Block and frame for a gallery-ready statement.
- Quilts: Feature as a center medallion or large focal block.
- Wearables & accessories: Tote fronts or jacket backs look striking.
Choice and effect - Top fabric color: A darker top fabric pushes contrast; a light top fabric lets the printed rose dominate.
- Thread color: Contrasting thread makes the quilting pop; subtle thread keeps stitching in the background.
Pro tip If you want the quilting to stand out without overpowering the rose, choose a thread that’s just a shade darker than the lightest tones in your panel.
Prep: Materials, tools, and files Materials
- Hoffman Dream Big Rose panel (pre-washed and tumble-dried)
- Top fabric (cotton recommended to match the panel’s behavior)
- Stabilizer approach: thin polyester batting, fleece, or cutaway (avoid tear-away)
- Thread: one color for the entire quilted design works beautifully
- Temporary adhesive spray (e.g., 505)
Tools
- Marking pencil (visible on your chosen top fabric)
- Tape measure
- Rulers: quilting rulers with 15°, 30°, 45°, 60° markings; circular ruler is very helpful
- Optional templates: printable ruler/template set (DXF/SVG) for accurate angles and circles
Files
- Ruler files (DXF/SVG) are provided with the set; they can be cut from acrylic/perspex or even made as paper/card templates.
From the comments A reader asked about the laser-cut ruler: the file is included with the purchased set, and the sample was cut from perspex.
Watch out Mixing fabric types (e.g., cotton panel with non-cotton top) can cause differential stretch and puckers.
Prep checklist
- Panel washed and dried
- Top fabric selected (cotton)
- Stabilizer approach chosen (batting, fleece, or cutaway)
- Pencil, tape, rulers, and templates ready
- Adhesive spray on hand
Setup: Layering, basting, and accurate marking Centering and basting 1) Mark centers: Fold the panel twice to find center; mark both panel and stabilizer centers. 2) Baste panel to stabilizer: Spray 505 on stabilizer and smooth panel onto it, aligning centers. 3) Add the top fabric: Place top fabric right side up, spray the panel lightly, and smooth the top fabric without stretching.
Why this order matters Reverse applique needs stable, non-shifting layers. A generous, even adhesive bond prevents slipping and distortion while you stitch and cut.
Precise marking for perfect alignment 1) Transfer center to the top fabric: Push a pin from the back through the center mark and dot the front with your pencil.
2) Draw the horizontal center line: Use two rulers to align and confirm a true 90° reference.
3) Build the radial grid: From the center, draw lines every 15° using your circular ruler or standard rulers (15°, 30°, 45°, 60° increments), rotating around the center.
4) Add circular guides: Use the template’s slots to draw concentric circles where elements sit—these arcs guide template placement and keep spacing consistent.
Quick check Lines must be dark enough to see under the machine—if they’re faint on light fabric, go over them once more.
Community confirmation
- A viewer asked whether 8-in-1 frames were used. The answer: this project uses magnetic frames made by Galaxy (not 8-in-1). That aligns perfectly with the hooping method below.
Setup checklist
- Layers are flat, smooth, and well-basted
- Center transferred to the top fabric
- Horizontal reference line drawn true
- Radial and circular guides clearly marked and visible
Operation: Stitch–cut–repeat (the reverse applique workflow) Hooping with confidence - Magnetic hoops: Lay the marked piece over the hoop on the machine. Align the fabric’s center with the hoop/machine center. A pin through the center from the top helps verify true alignment; secure with magnets.
- Standard hoops: Hoop a water-soluble film (vilene) and float the basted quilt on top with spray adhesive rather than clamping the layered fabric—this avoids distortion.
Watch out Do not press fabric into a standard hoop—hoop distortion leads to warped shapes and unreliable placement.
Template alignment and tracing
- Place your printed template (roughly cut out) so its crosshairs line up with the marked grid.
- Use your machine’s trace function or position the needle manually to confirm edge clearance and orientation before stitching.
Step 1: Stitch the first outline
- Run the placement/tack-down outline. This secures the first area you’ll cut.
- Expected result: A clean, continuous outline with no fabric drag.
Step 2: Cut away the top fabric inside the outline - Using small applique scissors or a scalpel, lift only the top fabric and cut right up to the stitch line. Keep the tool flat and your non-dominant hand behind the blade path.
From the comments Concerned about nicking the base panel? One community tip stands out: begin your cut very close to the stitching so that, if you lightly nick the base, the final satin will still cover it.
Step 3: Cover raw edges and continue
- Stitch the next step (often zigzag/satin) to neatly cover the cut edge.
- Place the next template section by matching crosshairs to your grid, tape temporarily if needed, stitch its outline, cut the window, then satin.
- Repeat: Move around the design—corners, inner circles, and rings—using the marked grid to keep every element square and evenly spaced.
Why the marked grid is everything The grid carries each placement decision. When your marks are accurate and dark, your templates lock onto those references and every window lands where intended.
Expected intermediate outcomes
- After each outline: stitches lie flat with no ripples.
- After each cut: only the top fabric is removed; the printed rose shows cleanly beneath with no frayed halo.
- After satin: edges look filled and even, with no base fabric peeking.
Operation checklist
- Reconfirm center before each major section
- Align template crosshairs to your grid every time
- Verify needle path with trace
- Cut slowly; keep scissors or scalpel flat
Quality checks: Spot-on alignment and clean reveals At key milestones, pause and evaluate:
- Alignment: Do the stitched arcs land symmetrically around the center? Do opposing motifs mirror each other along the horizontal line?
- Coverage: Satin fully hides the cut edge; no “white space” of top fabric remains at corners.
- Surface: No puckers or pulls; layers remain smooth and bonded.
- Marks: Still visible until you’re completely finished stitching.
Quick check Look at the innermost and outermost arcs—they amplify any small alignment drift. If they’re balanced, everything in between is likely true.
Results & handoff: Wash, block, frame, or sew on After the final stitch 1) Remove from the hoop. Trim jump threads. 2) Wash the panel to remove pencil lines and any water-soluble support. Let it dry flat. 3) Block: Stretch over a painter’s block or foam board to square and flatten for framing.
Display and reuse ideas
- Frame the full panel for wall art (the tutorial sample spans the full panel width)
- Trim off corners for coordinating small projects
- Create a circular cut for a tree skirt, finished with binding
Pro tip When planning to frame, omit the back fabric during stitching. If you want a finished back in one pass, add the backing layer below the panel before basting—just remember to match your bobbin thread.
Troubleshooting & recovery: Alignment, puckers, and safe cutting Symptoms → likely cause → fix
- Misaligned motifs: Grid was faint or inaccurate → Re-mark key lines darker; verify 90° with two rulers; always align template crosshairs.
- Puckers or ripples: Layer shift or differential stretch → Use generous, even adhesive; keep top fabric cotton; smooth from center outward.
- Wavy edges after satin: Cutting too far from outline → Cut right up to the outline; run zigzag/satin at designed width to encapsulate the edge.
- Nicked base fabric: Cutting too deep or blade angles down → Keep blade flat; start cuts very close to stitching so satin covers minor nicks.
Watch out Avoid tear-away stabilizers for this workflow; you need continuous support (batting, fleece, or cutaway) while stitching and cutting.
Decision points
- If you’re using batting or fleece as your base, you can skip additional stabilizer; the loft supports the stitches.
- If you choose cutaway, hoop it (or float your sandwich on hooped film for standard hoops) and spray-baste your layers firmly.
From the comments: Community tips that change the game
- Magnetic frames, not 8-in-1: A common question was whether 8-in-1 frames were used. The project was stitched in magnetic frames made by Galaxy; the method below reflects that approach.
- Template files and material: The included ruler/template files come with the purchased set and were demonstrated in perspex; paper or cardboard versions also work for marking.
- Cutting safety net: Start your cut right up against the stitching—final satin will cover minor base nicks, easing the anxiety when you’re near the rose print.
Appendix: Optional notes on tools people often ask about If you’re researching alignment aids and hoop systems beyond what’s shown here, you’ll encounter many references to magnetic systems in the wider embroidery world. That’s consistent with the technique demonstrated here; many stitchers prefer a magnetic frame for embroidery machine for large, layered pieces.
Similarly, some stitchers discuss brands and sizes of magnetic hoops when adapting this workflow to different machines. While this tutorial used magnetic frames made by Galaxy, the core principles—accurate marking, floating when needed, and careful cutting—remain the same.
If you’re exploring broader options, you’ll see terms like embroidery magnetic hoops and magnetic hoop embroidery come up frequently in product guides. Use them for research, not as a substitute for the marking discipline that truly drives success in this project.
For readers who own other models, you may encounter discussions around magnetic embroidery hoops for brother or magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines in general forums. Regardless of brand, prioritize non-distorting hoop methods that keep your layers flat and stable.
And if your studio is set up with a dedicated magnetic hooping station, the alignment workflow here—center marks, dark grid lines, template crosshairs—translates directly.
Finally, when shoppers compare generic embroidery hoops magnetic accessories, the safest rule is the simple one: choose a setup that won’t crush or drag your layered sandwich, and practice the trace–align–cut cadence until it’s second nature.