How to Make an Embroidered Patch on a Brother Machine (Automatic and Manual Methods)

Understanding Embroidered Patches: What Makes Them Special?

A classic appliqué is stitched directly onto a base project. A patch, by contrast, is created as a free-standing unit with a complete, finished outer edge so you can stitch it onto anything later. In the Brother manuals, the feature used here is called appliqué or Instant Appliqué; in quilting circles, that’s what we’d call a patch with a satin-finished perimeter.

You can see the difference clearly when a dark satin outline frames your design—it turns a regular embroidering of Mickey into a movable patch you can add to jeans, hats, bags, and more.

Pro tip:

• Your patch will grow by roughly a quarter inch all the way around the design when you add the satin border. Plan size accordingly.

Quick check:

• If the end goal is to sew the design onto something else, you’re making a patch. If you’re stitching directly to the item, that’s standard appliqué.

Essential Supplies for Your Patch Project

To follow along, you’ll need:

• An embroidery machine with either a dedicated patch/Instant Appliqué feature or the ability to add shape outlines (running stitch and satin stitch)

• Embroidery thread to match your design

• Medium-weight tearaway stabilizer (for initial stitching)

• Two layers of water-soluble washaway stabilizer (e.g., Floriani Wet N Gone or OESD Aqua Mesh) for the satin-edge stage

• A fabric glue stick

• Background fabric sized for your hoop

Lay everything out before you begin so you can work smoothly from design selection to the final rinse.

Watch out:

• Use the correct stabilizer at each stage: tearaway for the initial design and outline; washaway for the final satin edge.

If you’re working with a brother embroidery machine, the steps below align closely with what you’ll see on screen in this tutorial.

Step-by-Step: Crafting Your Patch (Automatic Method)

Selecting and Sizing Your Design

Start by choosing a design—built-in or imported. Keep finished size in mind: once the patch edge is added, the overall footprint increases by about a quarter inch around. Check that the combined size will still fit your hoop and your intended use.

Pro tip:

• If your design is dense, plan on extra support. You can add a second piece of tearaway “floating” beneath the hoop later.

If you usually stitch on a brother sewing and embroidery machine for projects beyond patches, consider how the same size logic applies to those too—border additions or outline steps always affect finished dimensions.

Utilizing the Instant Appliqué Button

With your design on screen, open the edit menu and select the Instant Appliqué button (on this Brother machine, it’s a shield icon). The feature automatically adds three elements to your design’s stitch sequence: a cut line, an outline stitch, and the final satin stitch. Confirm the look and proceed.

Some Brother models ask how far the satin should sit from the design edge (the basting distance). Others use a default setting. If you can access this in your menu, you’ll find an embroidery basting distance control on the screen. Adjust gradually and preview the spacing visually before stitching.

From the comments:

• Several viewers appreciated seeing the on-screen setup for the patch icon, especially those who couldn’t find clear directions elsewhere.

If you often swap hoops, it can help to note your typical project dimensions. For instance, many crafters rely on a 5”x7” field; if that’s you, remember your satin edge will push the final measurement outward. This is useful to keep in mind when using a brother 5x7 hoop.

Step-by-Step: Crafting Your Patch (Manual Method)

If your machine doesn’t include a one-tap patch feature, you can build the sequence manually using shapes:

1) Add your embroidery design to the screen. 2) Go to shapes and place a running stitch shape (circle, square, heart, etc.) around the design; size it to give the border you want. Duplicate this running stitch so you have two. 3) Add a satin stitch shape from the shapes menu. Size and center it to match the running stitch outline.

Because running and satin stitches behave differently, sizes may not match perfectly on paper. The video suggests testing on scrap first to confirm alignment. The example shown reached a comfortable fit by choosing the closer of two available sizes for the satin circle.

Quick check:

• Confirm this on screen: your design should sit neatly inside the running stitch outlines, and the satin should cover that cut edge when you reach the final stage.

If you’re keeping notes for future projects—especially if you have multiple hoop formats—mark the manual outline sizes that worked for you. That habit pays off if you later explore accessory options like brother embroidery hoops sizes when planning larger or smaller patch runs.

The Critical Cutting and Gluing Stage

Removing Your Design from the Hoop

Hoop your background fabric with one layer of medium tearaway. For very dense designs, you may add an extra piece of tearaway floating beneath the hoop. Stitch the main design. The machine will also stitch that first running outline around the outside of the design.

Now, remove the project from the hoop—yes, mid-process—and carefully cut around the running stitch outline. This gives you a free-standing appliqué shape with a raw edge. Take your time and use sharp scissors to keep the edge smooth.

Watch out:

• Cutting too close risks nicking your stitching. Follow the outline smoothly and deliberately.

If you rotate hoops or frames frequently (for example, when switching projects), keep your tools together to avoid misplacing scissors mid-cut. Some embroiderers who work across multiple machines also keep a small caddy near their setup, especially if they own accessories like brother hoops.

Securing the Cut Design with Glue

Set the cut design aside. Re-hoop with two layers of water-soluble washaway stabilizer (the video uses either Floriani Wet N Gone or OESD Aqua Mesh). Put the hoop back on the machine and stitch the next running outline onto the washaway—this marks placement for your cut piece.

Apply glue inside that stitched outline using a fabric glue stick. Place your cut-out design precisely inside the outline and press it down.

Pro tip:

• Glue stabilizes the piece, but mechanical guidance helps too—keep a stiletto or awl handy for the next step.

In case you also own accessories like a brother magnetic hoop, be aware that this tutorial doesn’t rely on magnetic frames; the strategy here is all about stabilizer choice, glue placement, and speed control.

Final Stitching, Trimming, and Rinsing

Machine Speed Adjustments for Clean Edges

Before the final edge is stitched, slow your machine down. In the video, the speed is reduced to about 350 stitches per minute for control. This makes it easier to keep the patch from shifting and to achieve a smooth satin finish. While it sews, you can gently guide the fabric with an awl or seam ripper to keep edges from flipping.

Start the final satin stitch around the patch perimeter. The machine may first run a wider zigzag to secure the piece, then fill in with a satin stitch. Keep your eye on coverage to ensure the raw edge is fully encased.

From the comments (density question summarized):

• A viewer asked about density numbers. The creator replied that a larger number means more stitches (more dense). They also pointed out that issues often stem from stabilization, so check stabilizer first before chasing density.

If you’re researching frame options for other projects, note that this technique does not require specialized frames; however, some embroiderers who work across projects sometimes explore magnetic hoops for brother embroidery machines for convenience. Use what you’re comfortable with and what your machine supports.

The Finishing Touches: Trimming and Dissolving Stabilizer

When the satin edge is complete, remove the hoop and trim away the excess washaway stabilizer near the running stitch. Leave a safe eighth to a quarter inch; don’t snip those finished satin stitches.

Rinse in warm water. The washaway stabilizer will dissolve completely, leaving a clean, flexible satin edge. Let the patch dry flat.

Quick check:

• Edges should look smooth and fully covered, with no stabilizer residue left behind after rinsing.

If you keep multiple hoops on hand for various projects—say you alternate between a standard frame and something like a brother magnetic frame on other builds—store them where they won’t contact damp patches. Dry thoroughly first.

Your Finished Patch: Ready for Anything!

Once dry, your patch is ready to sew or attach where you like—cover a tear in kids’ jeans, add a pop to a hat, or customize a bag or pouch. The process is repeatable for any design you can fit and trim cleanly.

From the comments (viewer takeaways):

• Viewers appreciated seeing the patch icon in action and the clear walk-through of both automatic and manual methods. Some wished for even more step-by-step visuals; the video focuses on the essential screens and critical handling moments.

Troubleshooting in brief:

• Border looks uneven? Slow down further and guide with a stiletto while stitching the satin edge.

• Patch slipped? Re-evaluate glue coverage and ensure your washaway is hooped taut in two layers.

• Edge not fully covered? Check the alignment of your satin shape (manual method) or revisit spacing/basting distance if your model allows it.

Before you make your next patch, consider a size rehearsal. If you rely on certain hoop fields often—especially with a brother embroidery machine—make a note of your favorite edge spacing and stabilizer combo. That way you can repeat success quickly. And if you branch out into other projects that might use different hoop formats, it can be helpful to know your go-to frame choices, whether that’s a standard 5x7 field or, for another embroidery session, something like a brother magnetic hoop 5x7.

Pro tip:

• Keep a small swatch library. Test your manual outline sizing once, label it with stitch notes, and keep it near your machine. The next time you build a patch, you’ll be ready to stitch with confidence.

Watch out:

• Remember: don’t eat the glue. It’s strictly for fabric placement.

If you’re exploring add-on hoop formats for broader projects, make sure any accessory is compatible with your model. People often ask about options like brother magnetic hoops or the broader category of magnetic hoops for brother embroidery machines; the process outlined here does not require them, but they can be part of a larger tool kit depending on your workflow.

From the comments (viewer encouragement):

• Several embroiderers shared that this was the first demo that made the patch icon make sense on their Brother machine, and others felt ready to try it on higher-end models. That enthusiasm is a great sign: once you understand stabilizer choice, cutting precision, and speed control, you can make polished patches again and again.

Finally, if you’re documenting your setup for repeatability—particularly if you swap between machines—track which hoop you used, what stabilizers, and your exact speed choice (the demo slowed to about 350 spm for the final pass). Notes like these help when you later plan projects that might use something like brother stellaire hoops or when you’re deciding which frame best fits a future design.