Table of Contents
Watch the video: “How to Stitch Yarn Embroidery Designs” by All Things Applique
If you’ve ever wanted plush, touchable embroidery that practically jumps off the fabric, yarn embroidery is your next favorite technique. This guide walks through what the video shows: picking yarn that actually behaves under the needle, securing it cleanly, and stitching in safe, stress-free steps.
What you’ll learn
- How to read a yarn label so you pick the right thickness for your design
- The simple supply list that keeps yarn exactly where you want it
- How to use color stops and stitch order to your advantage
- Safer, cleaner stitching: placement, trimming, and handling curves
Choosing Your Perfect Yarn for Embroidery
Understanding Yarn Labels and Sizes When you’re choosing yarn for machine embroidery, the label is your best friend. Look for the recommended crochet hook or knitting needle size—it’s the quickest shorthand for thickness. In the video, the presenter compares a thinner yarn labeled for about a 9 mm hook, a medium yarn around a 12.5–15 mm hook, and a super-chunky yarn labeled 25 mm. Thinner yarn helps with crisp detail (like small lettering), while thicker yarn is easier to control for simple shapes.
The label-based approach matters because you’re not stitching the yarn like thread—you’re laying it on a placement line and tacking it down with stitches. The thickness determines how forgiving the process will be.
Small, Medium, and Large Yarn Comparisons
- Thin yarn (around a 9 mm hook): Great for small letters where readability matters, but less forgiving—precision on the placement line is crucial.
- Medium yarn (about 12.5–15 mm hook): Often a sweet spot for these designs, according to the video’s test team feedback.
- Chunky yarn (around 25 mm hook): Surprisingly beginner-friendly for simple, larger shapes (hearts, “XOXO” in a larger hoop), but not recommended for thin letters or letterforms with small holes.
If you love bold texture and are practicing technique, start chunky on a simple design to build confidence. Save the thin, velvety yarns for later—they tend to show every wobble off the placement line.
Where to Buy Embroidery Yarn The video mentions picking up yarn at craft stores such as Michaels, and notes that some people shop at Walmart, Hobby Lobby, or online retailers like Amazon. Specific brands beyond examples shown aren’t required; just focus on weight and texture. When in doubt, grab two options (a textured medium and a chunky) to test how they behave on your chosen design.
Essential Supplies for Yarn Embroidery
Tools You'll Need (Beyond Yarn) You don’t need much to get started. The video keeps it simple: an embroidery machine, hooped stabilizer, scissors, painter’s tape, and optional spray adhesive. These few tools give you control over placement without finger risk near the needle.
Securing Your Yarn: Tape vs. Spray Adhesive Painter’s tape shines on straighter segments (like the arms of an “X”). You’ll place tape beyond the stitch path so the needle doesn’t pierce it, but it still anchors the yarn ends. For curvy segments (like “O”), a light mist of spray adhesive gives the yarn a bit of tack so it doesn’t drift as the machine starts and stops.
From the comments: Some viewers wonder if a glue stick would work like it does for appliqué. A couple of commenters suggested it might, but warned it could gum up the needle. The video itself demonstrates painter’s tape and spray adhesive only, so if you experiment, test on scraps first.
Setting Up Your Workspace Keep a simple cardboard box nearby as a “spray booth.” Lay the yarn inside the box and spritz adhesive there—this smart trick from the video keeps your machine and table clear of overspray. Then hoop your stabilizer so it’s smooth and secure; that firm base gives the yarn something stable to tack into.
Watch out: Adhesive drift can coat your needle and thread. That’s why containing overspray is important. If you notice residue, pause and clean before you continue.
Preparing Your Machine and Design for Stitching
Loading Your Yarn Design Load your chosen yarn-friendly design onto your machine. In the video, the “XOXO” design is loaded three times to compare different yarn weights. The presenter runs a placement stitch in one color, then switches to a light, low-visibility thread for the tacking stitches that won’t distract from the yarn itself.
Navigating Color Stops and Stitch Order Color stops are your built-in breathing room. The presenter uses a printed approval sheet (and suggests watching a stitch simulator) to understand order: the first “X” arm, then the second; half an “O,” stop; then the second half; and so on. Each stop lets you reposition and secure yarn before the next pass.
Pro tip: Even if the printed colors don’t pop, tracing the sequence with markers on your printout makes the path obvious at a glance. It’s a small prep step that pays off once the machine starts.
Hooping Stabilizer for Success Hoop your stabilizer taut and flat—no puckers. The video stitches the demo directly onto stabilizer to keep things simple. If you plan to move your finished piece to a garment later, stable hooping now still matters for accurate tack-down and clean trims.
Quick check: Before you hit start, confirm the right design is loaded, your color stops are as expected, and your thread choice blends with the yarn.
Step-by-Step Guide to Stitching Yarn Designs
Creating the Placement Stitch Start with the placement stitch that outlines exactly where the yarn will sit. This line is your track—precision here means less wrangling later.
Laying and Securing Yarn Segments Place the yarn directly on the placement line. Secure the ends beyond the stitch path with painter’s tape, or lightly tack longer curves with spray adhesive so they don’t wander. Avoid taping under the needle path. For the “X,” tape at the top and bottom; for the “O,” tack a tail at the start, smooth the curve, and secure near the pause point.
Watch out: Do not stitch through the tape. Keep tape edges out of the needle’s path or you’ll risk gumming, skipped stitches, or a burr on your needle.
Stitching the Yarn Segment Let the machine do the work. The video’s number-one safety rule is to keep your fingers away from the needle. If you need to steady the yarn, use a tool like a chopstick rather than your hands. If the yarn drifts, stop, re-tape or re-tack, and continue.
Pro tip: Color stops are built-in opportunities to micro-adjust curves—use them.
Trimming and Finishing Techniques After a segment is tacked, remove tape and trim the yarn ends cleanly with sharp scissors. The video mentions that chenille yarn can shed a bit at the cut; some crafters tuck ends under, use a dab of fray check, or even lightly singe ends (with extreme caution). The presenter emphasizes practice to find what finishes best with your yarn.
Repeat for Remaining Segments Follow the same sequence across the design: lay, secure, stitch, trim. The presenter completes all four letters (“XOXO”) in several yarn weights to compare outcomes. Consistency is your friend—pause when needed to keep alignment clean.
Using Tools for Precision: The Chopstick Method During curved sections, the presenter occasionally steadies the yarn with a chopstick to keep it from vibrating off the line while stitching—again, a safe stand-in for fingers near the needle.
Quick check: Are your cut ends neat, and is each segment cleanly tacked with no gaps? If you see drift, it’s usually a securing issue—use stronger tape placement or a bit more adhesive (applied safely in the box).
Pro Tips for Flawless Yarn Embroidery
Safety First: Keep Fingers Away! This can’t be overstated. Yarn is bulkier than thread, and it’s tempting to nudge it mid-stitch. Resist. Use a tool to guide. The video specifically warns to keep hands clear and demonstrates how a simple stick lets you adjust safely.
Using Tools for Precision: The Chopstick Method A lightweight tool gives you just enough pressure to keep yarn from vibrating without catching in the needle. Keep it low and outside the stitch path. Practice on scrap stabilizer to get a feel for how much pressure you need.
Practice Makes Perfect: Learning from Your Stitches The presenter’s third sample looks better than the first—it’s normal. You’ll feel each yarn’s personality after a few passes. Chunky textured yarns are forgiving. Smooth, velvety yarns show everything, so take your time or save them for designs with gentler curves.
From the comments: Community Q&A
- Some viewers asked about thread weight, needle size, and specific machine feet. The video doesn’t specify these details.
- A few suggested trying glue sticks to secure yarn; others cautioned about gumming needles. The video demonstrates painter’s tape and spray adhesive only.
- One viewer asked about using wash-away stabilizer over the yarn as an alternative to spray adhesive. The video does not cover this.
Comparing Yarn Weights: Which Stitches Best?
Chunky Yarn: Easiest for Beginners In the side-by-side comparison, the chunkiest yarn produced the most forgiving results for first projects. Because it’s wide, even slight misalignment can still get tacked securely. That makes it perfect for simple shapes and larger sizes.
Textured vs. Velvety Yarns: Forgiveness Matters The presenter noted that textured yarns hide small placement wobbles better than velvety ones. With a smooth, velvety yarn, a tiny miss off center is more visible—there’s an example where the thin yarn missed the middle slightly and it shows.
My Personal Recommendations
- Starting out: Choose a medium to chunky yarn for simple motifs to build technique.
- For curves (like an “O”): Light spray adhesive is helpful.
- For straight segments (like an “X”): Painter’s tape works well.
- Keep a chopstick handy for safe guidance.
- Practice a few segments before committing to your final garment.
Yarn Size Suggestions (at a glance) The video closes with a graphic that groups yarn by size and suggests related hook/needle ranges. Use it as a quick reference while you shop or plan.
More Yarn Design Ideas Love the look? The brand showcases additional designs like LOVE and DOUBLE HEART in the video graphics—great starting points for simple shapes and bold yarns.
Troubleshooting and FAQs (What the video does and does not cover)
- Needle and thread specifics: Not specified in the video. If your needle is breaking with super-chunky yarn, consider practicing with a slightly thinner yarn first, and always avoid pulling yarn while stitching.
- Foot choice and attaching to garments: The video stitches directly on stabilizer for demonstration and doesn’t cover attaching the finished piece to a sweatshirt.
- Washing finished pieces: The presenter mentions test team members have washed these designs successfully, but suggests practicing to see what works for your yarn and method.
- Digitizing for yarn: Not covered. The video uses designs intended for yarn tacking with color stops to control placement.
Watch out: Don’t stitch through painter’s tape. If you do, remove any residue from the needle before continuing.
Pro tip: Color stops are control points—use them to reset yarn direction and keep curves smooth.
Gear notes (reader context) The video references using a hoop and stabilizer setup suitable for laying and tacking yarn. If you use specialty frames or magnetic systems on your own machine, the same placement principles apply—secure the base, then secure the yarn. For readers who asked about broader equipment ecosystems, community members often explore solutions like magnetic hoops for embroidery machines for easier hooping, or brand-agnostic systems similar in function to snap hoop monster when working on bulkier blanks. Keep in mind, the video itself demonstrates a standard hooped stabilizer approach.
If you’re stitching on a personal setup, the method still translates. Many hobbyists run yarn designs on a brother embroidery machine at home; the key is controlling yarn placement, not the machine brand. And if you already use a magnetic frame or a classic clamping hoop, the yarn steps remain the same: placement stitch, secure, tack, trim.
Brand callout from the video The presenter and test team mention that a medium range can be a sweet spot, while a chunky yarn is easiest for first-timers. The demo compares three weights directly, so you can see how thickness changes both the look and the level of difficulty in keeping to the line.
Community-side equipment curiosity The comments also show interest in tools that help with bulky projects. If you own a tool like a mighty hoop, the method here still applies—just ensure stabilizer is tight and flat, and that you can access the needle area safely to place and secure yarn. The tack-down mechanics don’t change with the hoop type.
For those reading across machine families, the same placement-and-tack approach can be executed whether you use traditional hoops, a magnetic embroidery hoop style frame, or a conventional multi-needle setup. Just keep the safety mantra front and center: hands out, tool in.
Roundup: What matters most
- Read the yarn label for size (thin vs. medium vs. chunky) and plan your design accordingly.
- Use color stops to place, secure, and adjust with confidence.
- Tape for straights, spray for curves, and a tool to guide—never fingers.
- Practice makes better: your third try will likely be your best.
Final note If you’re experimenting with different accessories, the stitching principles are universal. Whether you prefer a simple hoop or you’re testing add-ons popular in the community like magnetic embroidery hoops or technique-focused tools under the umbrella of mighty hoop embroidery, the success factors in the video remain the same: thoughtful yarn choice, careful securing, safe guiding, and patience through the color stops.