ITH Zipper Bags (SDS1505): Seamless, Lined, and Professional—Step-by-Step

Video reference: “ITH Zipper Bags - SDS1505” by Stitch Delight

A polished, fully lined zipper bag straight from your embroidery hoop—no raw seams, an optional quilted texture, and a finish that looks boutique-made. This guide gives you every decision, step, and checkpoint to stitch SDS1505 bags with consistent, professional results.

What you’ll learn

• How to hoop water-soluble stabilizer and why it matters for a soft, seam-free bag finish

• Precise zipper placement and tacking so pulls never get caught

• Layering fabric and batting for a quilted or non-quilted look

• The double-turn method that hides every seam between layers

• Key checkpoints, fixes, and maker-tested tips from the community

Primer: What this ITH zipper bag achieves This project creates a zip-top pouch fully in the hoop, with an option for quilting on the front and—if you pre-quilt or use the included back—on the back as well. The standout finish: seams are hidden between layers after a clever turn-and-turn-again sequence. The result feels soft and professional because the water-soluble stabilizer is cut and dissolved at the end.

• Format: One embroidery design workflow (SDS1505) supporting quilted or plain bags.

• Sizes: Demonstration shows a 5×7 build, with cuts around 6×8 for coverage; the set includes multiple sizes.

• Fabrics: Stretch knits (like T-shirt) puff beautifully; woven cotton also looks crisp with batting.

• Stabilizer: Water-soluble is used so you can cut open the zipper area and rinse for a soft hand.

Pro tip If you like a plush quilted look on knits but don’t have scuba, T-shirt fabric works surprisingly well.

Quick check Plan your finish: quilted front vs. plain, and whether you’ll pre-quilt the back panel (optional).

Prep: Materials, tools, files, and workspace Gather these before you start:

• Embroidery design file: SDS1505 ITH Zipper Bag

• Stabilizer: Water-soluble (used throughout this method)

• Fabric: Front and back pieces; stretch T-shirt knit or quilt cotton both work

• Batting: Thin loft (avoid thick batting; it makes turning harder)

• Zipper: Long enough to extend about 1" beyond each side of the design area

• Thread: Embroidery thread; later, match bobbin to top for reversible quilting

• Adhesive: Temporary spray (e.g., 505) and/or low-tack tape

• Tools: Embroidery machine and hoop; scissors

• Workspace: Clear table for flipping the hoop and smoothing layers

Decision point: stabilizer

• Want a soft, fully dissolved finish and a clean zipper window? Use water-soluble stabilizer (as in the tutorial). magnetic embroidery hoops can hold WSS evenly if your machine supports them, but this method works with standard framed hoops too.

From the comments

• A viewer asked about using tearaway instead of water-soluble. The method shown relies on water-soluble so the zip opening can be cut and the sheet rinsed for a soft finish.

• Another viewer highlighted adhesive preference. The instructor prefers spray because it grips knits better than tape. If you avoid spray, use tape generously.

Prep checklist

• File loaded and correct hoop selected (5×7 shown)

• Water-soluble stabilizer cut and hooped taut

• Zipper extends past both sides and moves freely

• Thin batting pieces cut for top and bottom front sections

Setup: Hooping, first outline, and zipper rationale 1) Hoop and outline

• Hoop one layer of water-soluble stabilizer firmly; place in the machine.

• Stitch the first outline directly on the stabilizer. This marks the bag footprint and the zipper lane.

2) Zipper placement logic

• Align the zipper so its teeth center on the marked line; let each end extend at least an inch beyond the design.

• Keep the pull out of the stitch path.

• Secure with low-tack tape at both ends so it doesn’t drift during tacking.

Watch out If the pull sits in the stitch path, it can get trapped. Slide it away before tacking.

Setup checklist

• Outline stitched cleanly on taut stabilizer

• Zipper aligned to the center guide; pull parked out of bounds

• Tape or adhesive applied to prevent shifts

embroidery hooping station

Operation: Build, quilt, line, and close (step-by-step) Follow these numbered steps. Each concludes with what you should see before moving on.

Step 1 — Tack the zipper

• Return the hoop to the machine and run the zipper tack-down step.

• Remove all tape afterward.

Expected result: Zipper edges are secured cleanly along the guide, with ends extending past the outline.

Step 2 — Place top fabrics (back and front)

• Turn the hoop over to add the back first: light spray, then place the back top piece right side down, aligned so it overlaps the zipper tack line.

• Flip hoop to the front: light spray, place the front top piece right side down, aligned to the top line.

• Stitch the tack line that secures the top section.

Expected result: Both top fabrics catch that line and fold directionally over the zipper area.

Step 3 — Add batting and fold (top)

• Spray lightly on the stitched top area (front only) and place thin batting, leaving a tiny gap (about the batting thickness) near the zipper to help turning.

• Spray the batting lightly; fold the front top fabric up over it and smooth.

• On the back, fold the top back fabric up (no batting on the back).

Expected result: Front top section is smooth; batting is fully covered with no puckers; back top is folded cleanly.

Step 4 — Build the bottom sections

• Repeat Step 2 for the bottom: place bottom back fabric (right side down), then bottom front fabric (right side down); stitch to secure.

• Add batting to the front bottom area only; fold the front fabric over and smooth.

• Fold the bottom back fabric up (no batting on the back).

Expected result: All four quadrants (front/back x top/bottom) are placed; batting is present on the front top and bottom only.

Step 5 — Quilt (optional on front; reversible look)

• Before quilting, change the bobbin to match the top thread if you want a reversible quilted look.

• Stitch the quilting. If you want a plain front, skip the quilt step and continue.

Expected result: Front quilting completes; matching bobbin/top thread makes the back view attractive too.

Quick check If you plan to quilt the back as well, pre-quilt a separate back panel now. The set also includes a back with a small circle quilting pattern compatible with the zipper location.

From the comments A commenter noted a back option exists with circle quilting where the front zipper sits—use this if contrasting thread on the back bothers you.

Step 6 — Prepare for the final outline (attach back panel)

• Important: Open the zipper halfway. This is essential for turning later.

• Light spray on the front; place your back panel right side down, fully covering the design area.

• Stitch the final outline to secure all layers.

Expected result: The bag perimeter is fully stitched; all layers are captured.

Pro tip If your machine supports it, using a hoop with strong hold (for example, brother 5x7 hoop or compatible magnetic embroidery hoops for brother) can minimize fabric creep when you place the final back layer.

Step 7 — Trim and first turn

• Remove the project from the hoop.

• Trim close to the double stitch line for clean corners, leaving a small allowance at the temporary opening so you can fold it in neatly.

• Reach in through the opening and turn the piece inside out; push corners gently.

Expected result: You see a clean interior; fold the opening’s seam allowance inward for closing.

Step 8 — Close the opening and final turn

• Hand or machine stitch the small opening closed on the inside panel.

• Clip the water-soluble stabilizer behind the zipper to expose the zipper window.

• Now, open the zipper fully and turn the bag right side out through the zipper.

• Rinse to dissolve remaining stabilizer; press for a crisp finish.

Expected result: A finished, fully lined zipper bag with no visible raw seams and neat edges.

Operation checklist

• Zipper tacked, tape removed

• Fabrics placed right sides down, then folded up cleanly

• Batting only on front top and bottom; small gap left near the zipper

• Bobbin thread matched for reversible quilting

• Zipper opened halfway before attaching back panel

• Trimmed close to double stitch line; corners pushed

Quality checks: What “good” looks like

• Zipper: Pull glides freely; zipper tape isn’t caught in seams.

• Quilting: Even spacing, no puckers; reverse side presentable if bobbin matched.

• Corners: Crisp after trimming close to the double stitch line.

• Interior: No raw seams visible; lining lays smooth after final turn.

Quick check Press the bag after rinsing out stabilizer—pressing flattens seam allowances and levels the quilting texture.

Results & handoff: Turn, wash, and finish

• Wash/rinse: Remove all water-soluble stabilizer residue for a soft hand.

• Press: Use a clean press cloth; flatten seams and bring out the shape.

• Compare textures: Knits give a lofty “pop,” while quilt cotton reads crisp and structured.

From the workbench If you like rigid control during placement, accessories like snap hoop monster or dime snap hoop (when compatible with your machine) can add grip across the hoop field. Keep adhesive light; the instructor prefers spray for knits because it resists fabric slippage better than tape.

Troubleshooting & recovery Symptom: Zipper pull stitched in place

• Likely cause: Pull parked inside the stitch area during tacking.

• Fix: Stop, unpick the short tack area, move the pull away, and re-tack.

Symptom: Bulk at the zipper fold

• Likely cause: Batting crowding the zipper line or overly thick loft.

• Fix: Leave a tiny gap equal to batting thickness near the zipper; switch to thinner batting.

Symptom: Ripples or shifting during quilting

• Likely cause: Inadequate adhesion or handling while flipping the hoop.

• Fix: Lightly re-spray and smooth before stitching; keep hands off the hooped field during quilting.

Symptom: Visible seam allowances inside

• Likely cause: Skipping the final lining pass or missing the double-turn sequence.

• Fix: Follow Step 6 through the final turn; that sequence hides seams between layers.

Symptom: Thread mismatch on the back quilting

• Likely cause: Bobbin not matched to top thread.

• Fix: Change bobbin to match top thread before quilting for a reversible effect.

Symptom: Needle breaks when using vinyl (community report)

• Likely cause: Material stiffness and thickness.

• Fix: A maker reported switching one side to fabric to finish successfully. The tutorial itself demonstrates knit and cotton.

Watch out Avoid thick batting—turning becomes difficult and corners look bulky. Keep spray adhesive off the zipper area to prevent residue buildup.

Pro tip A stable hoop helps: whether using your standard framed hoop or a compatible magnetic option such as brother magnetic embroidery frame, ensure the stabilizer is drum-tight to prevent distortion.

From the comments: Quick Q&A and tips Q: Can I use tearaway instead of water-soluble stabilizer? A: The method relies on water-soluble so you can cut out the zipper window and fully dissolve the sheet for a soft finish.

Q: How do I quilt the back? A: Either use the included back option with a small circle quilting pattern (compatible with the front’s zipper location) or pre-quilt a separate back panel first, then attach it as your back layer.

Q: My inside is only lined on one side—did I miss something? A: The double-turn hides seams between layers. Be sure to add the final back lining layer, then turn through the opening, close it, and finally turn through the zipper.

Q: What sizes are available? A: The set includes multiple sizes; the demonstration shows a 5×7 with fabric pieces about 6×8 for coverage.

Q: Any hooping gear recommendations? A: Use what fits your machine and holds stabilizer taut. Many stitchers like sturdy options such as mighty hoop 5.5 or compatible magnetic embroidery hoops for brother when available, but the method works with standard hoops, too.

Customization notes

• Quilted vs. plain: Skip the quilt step for a flat front; run it for texture.

• Fabric effect: Knits (like T-shirt fabric) deliver loft similar to scuba; quilt cotton remains classic and tidy.

• Back presentation: Match bobbin/top thread for a reversible look.

Final tip If your machine supports them, magnetic embroidery hoops or a compatible brother magnetic hoop can make flip-to-back placement more secure. Keep layers smooth and adhesive light.