Kimberbell Home Sweet Haunted Home Two-Day Event! Machine Embroidery

Join the Home Sweet Haunted Home Event

If you love Halloween-themed machine embroidery and you enjoy learning in a group setting, this two-day virtual “Home Sweet Haunted Home” event (hosted by Quilt Beginnings) is designed to walk you through a set of coordinated projects while you stitch along at home. You’ll see a preview of all five projects in the promo video, and you’ll also get practical details: it’s hosted on Zoom, it’s recorded (so you can step away and catch up later), and the kit price is $169 and includes the full kit for the projects.

Virtual format details

The hosts explain that the event is run virtually on Zoom. That matters more than people think: your success is less about “watching a class” and more about building a smooth at-home workflow—machine set up, materials staged, and a plan for what you’ll do if you fall behind.

The "Mini-Factory" Mindset: In professional embroidery circles, we differentiate between "crafting" (doing it once, slowly) and "production" (doing it efficiently). For a multi-project event like this, you must adopt a production mindset. Even if you are only making one of each item, you will move faster and make fewer mistakes if you batch your prep: cut your stabilizers, wind your bobbins, and label your materials before you even log into Zoom.

To keep your hooping consistent across multiple projects, many embroiderers eventually add a hooping aid. If you already own a station like hooping station for machine embroidery, it can help you repeat placement more accurately from project to project, ensuring that your design lands in the exact same spot on the fabric every single time. Precision here prevents the heartache of unpicking stitches later.

Dates and Zoom logistics

In the video, Joyce and Jess describe it as a two-day event (Thursday and Friday) hosted via Zoom. They also mention that recordings will be available if you need to step away.

Real-Life Pacing Strategy: Recordings are a safety net, but relying on them can break your momentum. The most common reason users fall behind isn't difficult stitching—it's searching for tools. If you start each project by hunting for scissors, swapping needles, or re-cutting stabilizer, you’ll feel “behind” and stressed.

• The "Mise-en-place" Rule: borrow from chefs. Have your scissors, tweezers, and thread snips in a "landing zone" to the right of your machine. Do not let them wander.

Recording availability

Because the sessions are recorded, you can pause and rewatch technique moments. Use that to your advantage:

• Material Introduction: Rewatch any segment where a material is introduced (glitter sheet, velveteen, felt/leather, lace), then confirm your own machine is handling it cleanly.
• Audio Diagnostics: Listen to your machine. If you notice a change in the sewing sound—a rhythmical “thump-thump” or a sharp clicking noise—stop immediately. These are auditory cues that your needle is dull or hitting the hoop. Pause the recording, troubleshooting the physical issue, and resume without panic.

Warning: Safety First. If you’re stitching while distracted (reading Zoom chat, multitasking, or rushing to “catch up”), you increase the risk of physical injury. "Needle strikes" (where the needle hits the metal hoop or plate) can cause the needle to shatter, sending metal shards flying toward your face. Always wear glasses (readers or safety glasses) when hovering over the machine, and keep your fingers well outside the "danger zone" of the walking foot.

Project Highlights

This event centers on five Halloween-themed projects. The video is a preview (not a full sew-along), so you don’t get stitch-by-stitch instructions—but you do get enough information to plan your materials, hooping approach, and finishing strategy.

3D Haunted House

The first featured project is a cute three-dimensional haunted house. The hosts point out glitter sheets and button details.

Expert Analysis: Dealing with Bulk and "Flagging" 3D construction and glitter-sheet details imply you will be handling bulk, seams, and stiff materials. The glitter sheet is dense—it offers high resistance to the needle.

• Needle Choice: Do not use a standard universal needle here. Use a Topstitch 90/14 or a specific Metallic needle. These have larger eyes and sharper points to penetrate the dense glitter sheet without shredding your thread.
• Hooping Physics: Stiff materials like glitter sheets resist being bent into a traditional hoop. If you force them, they may pop out mid-stitch. This is a classic scenario where hoop choice dictates success.

A Practical Upgrade Path: If you frequently fight hoop burn (the shiny ring left on fabric), uneven clamping on thick items, or simply find screwing the hoop tight to be a literal pain in the wrist, magnetic embroidery hoops can be a strong “tool upgrade” option.

• Why Upgrade: Magnetic hoops clamp flat. They hold thick materials like glitter sheets firmly without forcing them to bend, and they drastically reduce the time it takes to change between projects. For an event with 5+ hoopings, this saves significant time and hand strain.

Pro tip (Finishing): Buttons add charm, but they are a snag hazard during stitching. Plan your finishing so buttons are sewn on by hand after the embroidery is complete and the stabilizer has been removed.

Dead & Breakfast Tea Towel

The second project is a novelty tea towel titled “Dead & Breakfast Inn,” highlighted for its punny name.

Visual Checkpoint: The "Skin" Trap Tea towels usually have a loop or pile (texture). If you stitch directly onto this, your beautiful lettering will sink into the fabric and disappear.

• The Fix: You must use a Water Soluble Topping (like Solvy). This creates a smooth surface for the thread to sit on top of.
• Stabilizer Protocol: Towels stretch. You cannot rely on Tearaway alone if the stitch count is high (over 8,000 stitches). Use a fusable mesh or adhesive Tearaway to lock the towel fibers in place.

If you do a lot of towels for gifts or small-batch sales (e.g., runs of 20+ towels), a consistent hooping method transforms from a luxury to a necessity. Some shops pair a station like hoop master embroidery hooping station with repeatable placement habits to guarantee that the logo is always exactly 4 inches from the bottom hem, reducing waste and increasing profit margins.

Velvet Pumpkin in-the-hoop

The third project is a velveteen pumpkin that is quilted in the hoop, and it’s available in three sizes (small, medium, large). The hosts also show wire stem details.

Material Science: The "Crush" Factor Velveteen is beautiful but unforgiving. It has a "nap" (directional pile).

• The Problem: Traditional inner/outer ring hoops crush the nap. Once crushed by the pressure of the hoop tightening screw, that permanent "hoop burn" ring often never steams out.
• The Solution: You have two choices.
  1. Float it: Hoop only the stabilizer, spray it with temporary adhesive (like 505 spray), and float the velvet on top. This is safer but risks shifting if the adhesive fails.
  2. Magnetic Upgrade: Use a magnetic frame. Because the magnets apply vertical pressure rather than the "pinch and drag" of a screw hoop, they are far gentler on napped fabrics like velvet, eliminating hoop burn almost entirely.

Pro tip (Nap Direction): Run your hand over the velvet. "Smooth" is with the nap; "Rough" is against it. Ensure all cut pieces face the same direction, or your pumpkin panels will look like different colors under the light.

Free-standing lace bats

The fourth project involves free-standing lace bats. The hosts show them used as garlands or decorations and explain they are free-standing lace (FSL).

FSL Engineering: Speed Kills Quality Free-standing lace relies entirely on the thread interlocking with itself to create structure. It puts immense stress on the thread.

• Speed Limit: If your machine can run at 800-1000 Stitches Per Minute (SPM), slow it down. For FSL, the "Sweet Spot" is usually 500-600 SPM. This reduced speed allows the thread to settle and interlock without snapping.
• Bobbin Match: For FSL, you must use the same thread in the bobbin as on top (unless specifically instructed otherwise). This ensures the bat looks good from both sides.
• Stabilizer: Use a Heavy Water Soluble Stabilizer (looks like fabric, not plastic wrap). Plastic film toppings are not strong enough to hold the thousands of needle penetrations required for lace.

Sensory Feedback Tip: If your machine creates a "thudding" vibration during the lace stitching, it is struggling to penetrate the density. Change to a fresh, sharp needle immediately.

The pillow (mixed materials + finishing)

The final project is a pillow featuring felt, glitter sheets, leather, and the lace bats, finished with pom poms.

Mixed Materials: The "No Undo" Zone Leather and vinyl are "unforgiving" materials. Once the needle makes a hole, that hole is permanent. You cannot unpick a mistake.

• Test-Drive: Always stitch a 1-inch test square on a scrap of the leather/felt sandwich to check tension.
• Tension Check: Pull your top thread. It should feel like the resistance of flossing your teeth—firm, but smooth. If it pulls freely, your tension is too loose and you will get loops.

Tool Upgrade Path (Scenario-Triggered): If you find yourself spending most of your time fighting hooping—especially with thicker or awkward layers like this pillow front—consider whether your current toolset is the bottleneck.

• Home Users: If you are on a single-needle machine, an embroidery magnetic hoop style setup can save your wrists and sanity when dealing with multi-layer sandwiches.
• Pro/Semi-Pro: If you are finding that hooping takes longer than stitching, this is the trigger point to look at multi-needle machines (like SEWTECH or similar commercial styles). These machines allow you to hoop the next garment while the current one is stitching, effectively doubling your output.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Powerful magnetic hoops utilize Neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely (blood blister risk) and can interfere with pacemakers. Keep them at least 6 inches away from medical devices. Never let two magnets snap together without a separator between them; they are incredibly difficult to separate and can shatter on impact.

Kit inclusions and Cost

The hosts list kit inclusions and the event price.

What comes in the box

In the video, the kit inclusions mentioned include:

• Light strands
• A zip bag
• An exclusive attendee pin

Pricing details

The cost discussed is $169, and the hosts state that this includes the entire kit.

Budgeting for "Hidden Consumables": Kits cover the project materials (fabric, lights), but rarely the process materials. To avoid a mid-event run to the store, ensure you have:

1. Stabilizers: Heavy Water Soluble (for lace), Cutaway (for pillow), Tearaway (for general), and Fusible Woven (for towel).
2. Adhesives: Temporary Spray Adhesive (like KK100 or 505) or a Glue Stick (for appliqué).
3. Needles: Size 75/11 Sharp (standard), 90/14 Topstitch (glitter/leather), and Universal 80/12.
4. Cleaning: Isopropyl alcohol and cotton swabs (to clean needle gum from adhesives).

Exclusive attendee pin

The exclusive attendee pin is called out as part of the kit experience—small detail, but it signals this is a curated event rather than just a file purchase.

Why Sign Up?

The hosts frame this as a fun, technique-building event with community elements.

Learn new machine techniques

Jess mentions participants will learn new techniques on their embroidery machines. This isn't just about cute designs; it's about mastering the "System of Stability." You will learn:

• Structure: How to build a 3D house that stands up (FSL density).
• Texture: How to quilt velvet without ruining it.
• Layering: How to stack leather, felt, and glitter without breaking needles.

To support clean results across these techniques, think of your machine as just one part of a triad: Machine + Hoop + Stabilizer. If any one of these is weak, the project fails. If you are currently hooping by hand and finding it inconsistent, comparing options like hooping stations or magnetic clamping frames is a smart move. The right tool turns a "struggle" into a "process."

Socializing and games

Joyce mentions they’ll share recipes and games during the event. Use these pauses strategically. Do not just sit there.

• The "Pit Stop" Routine: When the hosts start a game, take 2 minutes to:
  1. Clean the lint from your bobbin case.
  2. Check your needle tip for burrs (run it against your fingernail; if it scratches, replace it).
  3. Pre-wind the bobbin for the next color family.

Support local quilt shop

This is hosted by Quilt Beginnings (Dublin, Ohio), and the tone is very much “join us, stitch with us.” If you like learning with a shop community, this format can be motivating.

Primer (What you’ll learn + how to approach this like a pro)

Even though the video is promotional, you can still prepare like an experienced embroiderer so the actual event feels smooth. You will be working across multiple material types (glitter sheets, velveteen, felt, leather, lace).

Your biggest risk isn’t “not understanding the class”—it’s mechanical failure due to poor prep. If you’re new to magnetic clamping and want to explore it before a multi-project event, look for clear guidance on how to use magnetic embroidery hoop so you can practice loading/unloading safely and consistently. Using a magnetic hoop for the first time during a live class is a recipe for stress; practice beforehand.

Prep (Hidden consumables & prep checks)

The video mentions you need an embroidery machine and a home setup. Here is the professional prep list.

Decision Tree: Choose Your Stabilizer Strategy

Use this logic flow to make quick decisions during the event.

• Is the item Free-Standing Lace (Bats)?
  • YES → Use Heavy Water Soluble (fabric-type). NO films.
• Is the fabric unstable/stretchy (Tea Towel, Velvet)?
  • YES → Does the back show?
    • NO (Pillow/Pumpkin) → Use Cutaway (Maximum stability).
    • YES (Towel) → Use Tearaway + Wash-away Topping.
• Is the material thick/dense (Leather/Glitter)?
  • YES → Use Medium Tearaway. The material itself supports the stitch; the stabilizer just floats it.

Your "Emergency Kit"

• Tweezers: For grabbing thread tails.
• Double Curved Scissors: For trimming appliqué in the hoop without cutting the base fabric.
• Seam Ripper: For the inevitable mistake (we all make them).
• Painter's Tape: To tape down loose stabilizer edges or hold wire stems in place.

Prep checklist (Must-do before Zoom starts)

• Clean: Remove the needle plate and brush out lint. A clean machine runs smoother.
• Oil: If your machine requires oiling, do it now. Run a test stitch to clear excess oil.
• Inventory: Check you have all thread colors listed in the kit email.
• Bobbin Prep: Wind at least 5 bobbins in white (or neutral) and black (for the bats).
• Space: Clear a 2ft x 2ft flat area next to the machine for the "Hooping Zone."

Setup (Hooping strategy + efficiency upgrades)

The video references an embroidery machine and hoop. The difference between a frustating session and a fun one is often the hooping.

Hooping Fundamentals: The "Drum Skin" Test

When hooping standard cotton, the fabric should be taut but not stretched. Tap it with your finger. It should sound like a dull drum.

• The Pinch Test: If you pull on the fabric and it easily distorts the grain, it's too loose.
• The Distortion Test: If the straight lines of the fabric weave look curved, it's too tight.

When to consider a tool upgrade (Scenario → Standard → Option)

• Scenario Trigger: You have 5 kits to make. That is likely 15-20 separate hoopings. Your hands are cramping, or you are getting "Hoop Burn" on the velvet.
• Judgment Standard: If hooping takes you longer than 3 minutes per item, or if the quality varies wildly between items.
• Options:
  • Level 1 (Technique): Use "float" techniques with adhesive spray.
  • Level 2 (Tool): Magnetic Hoops. These are the industry standard for speed and fabric safety. They snap on instantly and adjust automatically to different thicknesses (like going from cotton to leather).
  • Level 3 (Machine): If you are doing this for profit, upgrading to a Multi-Needle Machine eliminates many stabilizer headaches because the tubular arm supports the garment better than a flatbed machine.

If you’re comparing products, note that terms like hoopmaster and hoopmaster home edition often come up in discussions about repeatable placement. These are systems, not just tools.

Setup checklist (Before stitching)

• Safety Zone: Ensure no cables or scissors are in the path of the embroidery arm movement.
• Hoop Check: Inspect your hoop screw. Is it stripped? Does it tighten fully?
• Needle Freshness: Insert a brand new needle. Write the date on your needle pack so you know when it was changed.
• Magnet Safety: If using magnetic hoops, place the spacers between the magnets now, so they are ready to grab safely.

Operation (Step-by-step workflow)

The promo video doesn’t provide the full sewing steps, but this is the universal workflow for success.

Step 1: The "Bird's Nest" Prevention

Action: Hold the top thread tail for the first 3-5 stitches. Why: If you don't, the tail gets sucked into the bobbin area, creating a tangled "bird's nest" that jams the machine.

Step 2: The "Hover" Check

Action: After the machine does its "fix stitches" (locking stitches), stop. Cut the tail. Why: If you leave the tail, the machine will eventually sew over it, making it impossible to remove cleanly later.

Step 3: Color Change Protocol

Action: When the machine stops for a color change, do not just yank the thread. Clip the thread at the spool, then pull it through the needle. Why: Pulling thread backwards (from the spool) drags lint back into the tension discs, clogging them and ruining your tension.

Step 4: Mid-Game Inspection

Action: Pause after the first color block. Run your finger over the back of the hoop (carefully). Why: Feel for loops or knots. If it feels rough, your tension is off. Fix it now before you add another 10,000 stitches.

Operation checklist (Use during Zoom)

• Hold Tail: Hold thread for first 3 stitches.
• Trim Jump Stitches: Trim immediately after they are sewn. Do not wait until the end.
• Listen: If the machine sounds "crunchy," stop and check the needle.
• Support: When embroidering the heavy 3D house, support the hoop with your hands (lightly) so the weight didn't drag on the arm.

Quality Checks (What “good” looks like)

Use these standards to judge your output:

• 3D House: The satin stitch edges should be smooth, not jagged. If jagged, the stabilizer was too light.
• Tea Towel: No loops of terry cloth poking through the letters. If present, the topping dissolved or tore too early.
• Velvet Pumpkin: No shiny ring (hoop burn) around the design.
• Lace Bats: They should feel stiff, not floppy. If floppy, the thread tension was too loose or the stabilizer was washed out too aggressively.
• Pillow: The appliqué fabric (leather/felt) should cover the placement line entirely.

Troubleshooting (Symptom → Likely Cause → Fix)

Results (What you should walk away with)

From the promo video, the outcome of the two-day “Home Sweet Haunted Home” event is five completed Halloween projects. But the real value is the upgrade to your "Embroiderer's IQ."

By the end of this event, you should understand:

1. Material Mastery: How to stabilize tricky fabrics like velvet and leather.
2. Structural Integrity: How FSL (Free Standing Lace) works and why speed management is critical.
3. Production Flow: How to prep, hoop, and finish efficiently.

If you enjoy the process but find the setup physically taxing or slow, remember that embroidery is a tool-assisted art. Upgrading to Magnetic Hoops for ease of use, or considering a Multi-Needle Machine for efficiency, are the natural next steps in your journey from "hobbyist" to "expert."

Happy Stitching! Ensure your prep is done, your needles are sharp, and your candy bowl is full.