Table of Contents
Video reference: “Cut Work Machine Embroidery Lace Border Design” by Embroidery515
A lace border that actually breathes—cut work lets light in, adds dimension, and makes your fabric look hand-finished right off the machine. This guide unpacks the full process: crisp straight-stitch outlines, precise cutting, edge-sealing satin stitches, and a shimmering metallic fill.
What you’ll learn - How to structure a cut work sequence: outline → cut → satin-stitch edges → metallic fill
- Where cutting belongs in the workflow—and how to keep stitches safe
- Why satin stitch coverage determines your final edge quality
- How to prep and run metallic thread fills without shredding
- Simple checks to validate each phase before moving on
Introduction to Machine Embroidery Cut Work Cut work is an embroidery technique where you stitch a design, cut away selected fabric areas, and seal the raw edges with dense stitches, typically a satin stitch. The result is an airy, lace-like border that can edge napkins, cuffs, hemlines, or linens with striking texture and contrast. In the project demonstrated here, circular motifs are outlined in red, their centers are cut out, the edges are satin stitched, and the inner circles receive a gold metallic fill.
Community fact check: In response to a viewer, the creator noted they used an industrial zigzag SINGER model 20u to demonstrate this technique. The principles below apply across many embroidery setups capable of precise straight and satin stitching. machine embroidery hoops
Pro tip: Keep your sequence consistent on every repeat motif—your finish will look uniform, and troubleshooting becomes simpler.
What is Cut Work Embroidery? - Foundation lines: Straight stitches create inner and outer outlines for each circle. These lines not only define the motif but also mark your safe cutting boundary.
- Removal: Inside the innermost boundary, you’ll cut fabric away.
- Edge finish: Satin stitches cover and seal the raw edge so it won’t fray.
- Decorative fill: Metallic thread adds contrast and sparkle to the centers.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
- Embroidery machine and hoop
- Fabric, stabilized in the hoop (stabilizer is implied in the workflow)
- Small, sharp scissors for cut work
- Red embroidery thread for outlines and satin edges
- Gold metallic embroidery thread for inner fills
Quick check: Before you begin, confirm your design is digitized for cut work: it should include initial outlines, a pause for cutting, satin edge finishing, and the final decorative fill.
Step-by-Step Guide to Stitching the Outlines Starting with Straight Stitches 1) Hoop the fabric with stabilizer and load the cut-work design. Begin stitching the outlines. The machine lays down straight stitches to define both inner and outer circles. These passes create a crisp guide for safe cutting later.
2) Continue outlining across the grid. Work systematically so multiple motifs receive their foundation lines before any cutting takes place. This keeps the workflow orderly and ensures consistent tension and alignment.
3) Complete the inner lines first, then the outer boundary of each circle. You’re building a clear inside edge (for cutting) and a perimeter (that will later be reinforced by satin stitching).
Watch out: Don’t skip the outer boundary. It frames the motif and helps the satin stitch lock down cleanly around the shape.
Building the Foundation for Cutting
- Purpose: Straight stitch lines form a firm, visible edge to cut along.
- Stability: Dense enough passes prevent the fabric from distorting while you trim.
- Continuity: Outline every circle you plan to cut before picking up the scissors.
Quick check: You should see clean, well-defined inner and outer outlines in red thread throughout the zone you’ll be cutting.
Checklist—Outlines complete
- Design loaded and hooped securely
- Inner and outer straight-stitch outlines stitched on all target motifs
- No gaps in outlines; alignment looks consistent
The Art of Cutting: Precision in Cut Work When and Where to Cut Cut after the straight-stitch outlines are complete and before any satin stitching of the cut-out edges. This sequence avoids fraying into areas that haven’t been sealed yet. Focus your scissors inside the innermost outline—the area the design intends to remove.
Tips for Clean Cuts
- Use small, sharp scissors for control, especially for tight curves.
- Keep the blades angled slightly upward so the lower blade glides against the stabilizer rather than gouging through stitched lines.
- Trim just shy of the line first, then refine to the outline with tiny snips.
Watch out: Never cut past the straight-stitch boundary. If you nick the stitch line, that spot may refuse to seal neatly under satin stitching or could open later.
Decision point
- If a circle is very small: Cut in incremental arcs rather than trying to remove the entire center in one go.
- If a circle is larger: You can peel out a larger section, but still make short, curved cuts to stay controlled.
Quick check: After cutting, your centers should be cleanly removed with the straight-stitch boundary intact—no frayed whiskers projecting into the soon-to-be satin edge.
Checklist—Cut work done
- All selected centers removed
- Straight-stitch boundary remains uncut
- No loose fibers protruding into the opening
Finishing Touches: Satin Stitching the Edges Why Satin Stitch is Crucial Satin stitch locks and hides the raw edge created by cutting. It’s the protective barrier that prevents fraying and defines the motif’s polished look. In this project, the satin stitch is applied along the outer edges of the circular motifs as well, elevating the border into a lace-like band.
Achieving Smooth Borders 1) Run satin stitches along the outer circle edges. This creates a raised, finished contour around the motifs, ensuring the design reads clearly from a distance.
2) Satin the inner cut edges. Allow the needle to place dense coverage that fully conceals the trimmed fabric edge and bonds the edge to the stabilizer.
3) Validate coverage. The satin should neatly mask the entire raw edge; look for continuity without gaps. If edges peek out, re-run the segment if your design permits.
From the comments: For this workflow, the creator confirmed using rayon thread in the bobbin. This can contribute to a smooth underside and balanced coverage with the top thread.
Quick check: Edges should look continuous, slightly raised, and free of visible raw fabric. The border should appear cohesive across multiple motifs.
Checklist—Satin stitching complete
- Outer edges satin-stitched uniformly
- Inner cut edges sealed with full coverage
- No gaps, loops, or thread nests
Adding Sparkle with Metallic Thread Fill Working with Metallic Threads After edge finishing, switch to metallic thread for decorative fills. In this project, the inner circles receive a dense metallic fill that contrasts beautifully against the red outlines. Load gold metallic thread, checking the path and tension before starting.
Pro tip: Metallic threads are less forgiving than standard threads. Confirm smooth spool rotation and minimize sharp thread-path angles before embroidering.
Creative Fill Stitch Options - Dense fill: The demonstrated approach uses a dense pattern that reads as a solid shimmer.
- Visual target: Aim for even sheen and consistent coverage—no dull patches or thin spots.
- Monitoring: As the fill builds, watch for shredding or skips so you can pause and address issues promptly.
Quick check: Finished fills should be even and luminous without breaks or gaps. The metallic sheen should appear continuous across all motifs.
Checklist—Metallic fill done
- Metallic thread installed and tension checked
- Inner fills stitched with consistent sheen
- No thread break remnants or gaps
Your Beautiful Cut Work Lace Border What you should see at the end: a continuous border of red satin circles with open centers, each filled with gold metallic stitching. The combination of cut work and metallic fill creates a delicate but eye-catching accent suitable for borders on linens, garments, or accessories.
Quality Checks (Milestones to verify as you go)
- After outlines: Lines are uniform and fully closed; inner/outer circles align.
- After cutting: No nicks beyond the inner boundary; edges are smooth.
- After satin stitch: Raw edges fully covered; no gaps.
- After metallic fill: Even coverage; no skipped areas.
Results & Handoff
- Stabilizer cleanup: Remove according to your stabilizer type so the open areas stay clean and lace-like.
- Pressing: Lightly press from the back with appropriate heat for your materials to settle the satin stitches and metallic fill.
- Storage: Lay flat to avoid kinks in the satin edge.
Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom → Likely cause → Practical fix
- Jagged cut edge visible after satin stitch → Cut wandered past the outline → Re-run a slightly wider satin pass if possible; otherwise, trim stray fibers and secure with another dense line where your design allows.
- Gaps in satin coverage → Insufficient density or slight misalignment → Re-stitch the segment if the design supports it; ensure hoop remains stable.
- Metallic thread breaks → Excess tension or rough thread path → Reduce tension and check thread path for sharp turns; ensure smooth spool feed before continuing.
- Uneven metallic sheen → Inconsistent stitching conditions → Pause, clear any lint, and resume with steady speed.
From the comments (mini-FAQ)
- Which machine was used? The creator reported an industrial zigzag SINGER model 20u.
- What bobbin thread? The creator stated they used rayon thread in the bobbin.
- How do you position the frame/hoop? A viewer asked; no explicit positioning method was provided in the thread.
- Is the machine motor-driven or foot-operated? A viewer asked; no direct answer appeared in the thread.
- Beginner resources? A request for beginner-friendly material appeared; the creator mentioned they have beginner videos.
Pro tip: Keep an iterative mindset. Validate after each milestone. It is faster to correct a small section immediately than to redo an entire border later.
Decision points that matter
- If your outlines show any gaps: Stop and restitch before cutting. Gaps can become failure points once you remove fabric.
- If the satin edge doesn’t fully cover the raw edge: Re-run the pass before switching to metallic.
- If metallic thread starts to shred: Pause, re-check thread path and tension, then continue.
Additional notes on hooping and stability The process requires secure hooping so outlines and satin stitches land precisely. The sequence here does not depend on a specific hoop construction; the critical factor is that your fabric remains stable where cutting and satin coverage occur. If your setup already includes alternative hoop systems, the techniques remain the same. You don’t need specialty frames to complete this sequence, but well-secured hooping improves consistency. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines
Optional gear context This technique is hoop-agnostic—the steps hold whether you use standard frames or other systems. If you already own alternative hoop formats, they can fit into the same workflow without changing the order of operations or stitch choices described here. magnetic hoops
Note on equipment flexibility The workflow shown was carried out on an industrial zigzag SINGER model 20u per the creator’s comment. Equivalent capability—precise straight stitching for outlines, dense satin stitching for edges, and reliable running of metallic thread—matters more than brand. magnetic hoop embroidery
Hooping ecosystem (general) While not required for this project, many shops organize their work around tooling that helps repeat placement. If your studio already employs such tools, they won’t alter the essential sequence of outline → cut → satin → fill covered here. hooping stations
Scope and applicability The methods in this guide align with what’s shown in the reference demonstration: straight-stitch outlines, precise cutting inside the inner boundary, satin sealing of both inner and outer edges, and a metallic-thread fill. These steps translate to a variety of circular motif lace borders, provided your design is digitized with the same order. embroidery magnetic hoops
Compatibility reminder No special frame type is required to execute the steps above. Proper hoop stability and a design digitized for cut work are the key ingredients. magnetic embroidery hoop
Hoop-setup FAQ (context only) A commenter asked how the frame is positioned, but no step-by-step was provided in the thread. If you already rely on a consistent method in your shop, continue using it as long as fabric stays flat and tension remains even. hooping station for embroidery machine
Operation recap (concise) 1) Outline: Straight stitches define inner and outer circles on all motifs.
2) Cut: Remove fabric inside the inner boundary only.
3) Satin edges: Seal inner cuts and reinforce outer circles with dense satin stitches.
4) Metallic fill: Stitch a dense fill in the centers with gold metallic thread.
Checklist—Operation recap
- All outlines stitched before any cutting
- Cuts clean, inside the inner boundary only
- Satin edges close and continuous
- Metallic fill even and secure
Closing thought Cut work rewards precision. Each phase—outlines, cutting, edge finishing, and fill—builds on the last. Work methodically, validate at milestones, and your lace border will look as refined as it feels.