Table of Contents
Video reference: “Embroidering on the side of a hat! Ricoma EM-1010”
A simple phrase in a loved one’s handwriting can turn a cap into a keepsake. This guide shows how to embroider a digitized “I Love You” on the side of a baseball cap—covering secure hooping on fast frames, precise tracing, the must-do orientation flip, and safe finishing for a clean result.
What you’ll learn
- How to choose frames and stabilizer for side-cap embroidery, and when to switch machines for clearance
- A reliable placement workflow: pin template → hoop → trace → flip orientation → stitch
- How to reduce fabric bounce without risky hand-holding
- Practical tips from the community: color advancing, bobbin choice, and budget digitizing
Primer (What & When) A side-cap embroidery is perfect for short text, initials, or a personal note—especially when it’s digitized from real handwriting. In this project, the design is a sentiment stitched along the cap’s side panel using a Ricoma multi-needle setup. The creator evaluated two digitized versions and chose the thicker run-stitch for stronger visibility on the cap.
Understanding the design
- Subject: “I Love You” in a loved one’s handwriting
- Decision: a thicker run-stitch version over a very thin one for more presence on the cap
Pro tip: If your lettering looks too delicate on the test stitch, scale the stroke thickness at the digitizing stage rather than compensating with density later. This preserves clean motion and reduces thread buildup.
When to use this method
- You’re personalizing a structured baseball cap on the side panel.
- You want exact placement and a neat stitch-out without a dedicated cap driver.
Watch out: Designs placed on the cap side often require flipping upside down in the machine before stitching. Forgetting this is a classic gotcha—fix it before pressing start.
From the comments: A community member asked who digitized the handwriting—the answer was Dream Digitizing, and another thread noted that a small script job cost around $6–$8.
Prep Tools and materials used
- Embroidery machines: Ricoma EM-1010 and Ricoma TC
- Frames: 8-in-1 fast frames (round tested, square chosen)
- Stabilizer: sticky stabilizer
- Helpers: pins, binder clips, scissors, packing tape
- Threads: top thread plus black bobbin (switched during the run)
- Lubricant: Zoom Lily White sewing machine oil (dries clear)
- Files: the digitized handwriting design printout for placement
Workspace setup
- Clear a sturdy table near the machine for frame prep and pinning.
- Keep pins, clips, and tape within reach; you’ll likely use more than one item to secure the cap.
Decision point: frame choice
- If the cap bill prevents a tight, flat mount on a round fast frame → trial a square 8-in-1 frame.
- If your machine’s arm clearance is tight with the bill → plan for a machine that offers more room.
Quick check: Pin a printed template where you want the design, aligning its center marks to a nearby seam. This is your visual source of truth for hooping and tracing.
Community insight: One viewer planned to invest in an interchangeable clamping system to manage tricky cap scenarios—an option worth researching if you do hats often.
Checklist — Prep
- Design printed with center marks
- Cap’s placement confirmed with pins
- Sticky stabilizer cut to frame size
- Pins, binder clips, tape, and scissors on deck
Setup Hooping trials and machine choice The build-up: with the sweatband flipped out, the round frame didn’t provide a tight, flat surface due to the bill’s interference. A smaller square 8-in-1 frame held the cap side more securely.
Stabilizer mount - Press sticky stabilizer firmly onto the square frame to create an adhesive bed.
Accessing the sewing arm - On the EM-1010, loading the F-hoop and moving the design to the top of the screen pushed the arm outward—handy for positioning the cap on the frame.
Clearance reality check - The bill risked contacting the EM-1010 arm during stitching, so the setup moved to a Ricoma TC for more working room.
Secure the cap on the TC
- Flip out the sweatband and press the cap onto the sticky stabilizer.
- Use binder clips along the edges to clamp fabric to the frame—especially near the side panel.
- If the sweatband tries to pop up during tracing, a strip of packing tape can tame the middle section without touching the sew field.
From the comments: Differences called out by the creator—TC offers a larger sewing field and 270° hat rotation.
Checklist — Setup
- Square 8-in-1 frame with sticky stabilizer applied
- Cap sweatband flipped out; cap pressed onto the sticky bed
- Binder clips installed; tape ready for the sweatband center
- Clearance verified on your chosen machine
Operation / Steps 1) Pin for placement - Align the printed template using the seam as your vertical guide, then pin in place. This controls drift when you move between machines or frames.
Expected result: Template sits square to the seam; you can visualize the design’s footprint.
2) Mount to the frame - With the sweatband flipped, seat the cap side smoothly over the sticky stabilizer on the square fast frame. Clip edges where fabric wants to lift.
Expected result: The cap is anchored firmly without wrinkles creeping into the sew field.
3) Trace the design - Center the needle on your intended start point and run a contour trace. If it rides too high, nudge the design lower on the screen and retrace.
Expected result: The trace path clears hardware, avoids seams, and stays within your intended region.
4) Flip orientation (critical!) - Before stitching, flip the design upside down in the machine settings. Retrace to confirm your borders still clear.
Quick check: On side-cap placements, the flipped preview should read upside down on-screen, even though it will read upright when worn.
5) Stitch with stability
- Start the run. If you see bouncing, pause and improve physical support with clips and tape—not your hands. The creator briefly held the cap from the back to dampen bounce but explicitly discouraged this for safety.
From the comments: For thin lettering, a viewer recommended a black bobbin; during this project, a black bobbin was installed mid-run.
Expected result: A smooth, single-color run-stitch signature with no drift.
6) Color advancing (if needed)
- If you must skip ahead to another color, the creator notes using Float Low mode to fast-forward through the design.
Checklist — Operation
- Template pinned; seam-based alignment confirmed
- Trace completed; design lowered/adjusted if needed
- Orientation flipped; second trace confirmed
- Tension steady; bobbin choice verified
- Hands clear; physical stability achieved with clips and tape
Quality Checks Placement and orientation
- With the cap off the machine, verify the text sits level relative to the side seam and reads correctly.
Registration and density
- Look for smooth run-stitch paths with no doubled lines or gaps; gentle curves should be continuous.
Back and bobbin
- On thin lettering, a black bobbin can visually recede; confirm no unwanted bobbin peeks on the top.
Surface condition
- Remove clips, tape, and any stabilizer residue. If you see a light oil spot, the cited Zoom Lily White oil dries clear—let it dissipate.
Quick check: Tug lightly along the embroidery path; the fabric shouldn’t ripple or tunnel.
Results & Handoff The finished hat presents a clean, legible script on the side panel—exactly aligned to the chosen seam and stitched in a bold run-stitch for readability. Trim jump threads, inspect the inside for any stabilizer bits, and steam lightly if needed to relax hoop impressions.
Packaging and care
- Deliver with a note: avoid harsh cleaners on fresh embroidery and let any residual oil fully clear.
- Photograph the cap at a slight angle to showcase the side panel message for portfolios or client proofing.
Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom → Cause → Fix
- Bill collision risk → Machine arm clearance too tight → Switch to a platform with more room (as done by moving from EM-1010 to TC), or re-orient the frame to avoid the bill.
- Sweatband pops up during trace → Adhesion insufficient → Add binder clips at edges and a small strip of tape over the sweatband center (outside the sew path).
- Bouncing movement → Inadequate stabilization → Add clips/tape; confirm stabilizer adhesion; avoid hand-holding during operation.
- Design too high or too close to a seam → Placement drift → Re-trace, lower design in software, and lock orientation before restarting.
- Upside-down stitch-out → Orientation not flipped → Use the machine’s design set to flip upside down, then trace again before stitching.
- Unwanted bobbin show-through on thin lines → Bobbin color mismatch → Consider switching to a black bobbin for dark top stitching.
From the comments: One reader is considering an interchangeable clamping system for scenarios like this; it can be worth researching if side-cap work is common in your shop.
Tools and Materials Recap
- Machines: Ricoma EM-1010; Ricoma TC (used for additional clearance)
- Frames: 8-in-1 fast frames (square chosen after round trial)
- Stabilizer: sticky stabilizer
- Securing tools: pins, binder clips, packing tape
- Threads: black bobbin installed mid-run
- Oil: Zoom Lily White (dries clear)
Alternatives to explore
- If you prefer clamp-style or magnetic approaches for similar projects, research options that suit your machine and cap style. magnetic hoop embroidery
hooping station for embroidery
Safe Workflow at a Glance
- Pin a paper template and align to a seam
- Mount on sticky stabilizer in a square fast frame; clip edges
- Trace contours, adjust position, and verify hardware clearance
- Flip design upside down; re-trace
- Start the run; keep hands clear; dampen bounce with clips/tape
- Inspect, trim, and let any clear-drying oil dissipate
From the comments
- Who digitized the handwriting? Dream Digitizing.
- Rough cost for a small script digitizing job? Reported around $6–$8.
- EM-1010 vs. TC differences? The TC provides a larger sewing field and 270° hat rotation.
- How to advance to another color? Use Float Low mode to fast-forward.
- Bobbin tip for thin text? A black bobbin can improve the look on dark stitching.