Ricoma EM1010 Cubby Buddy Bunny: The No-Panic Method for Hooping Plush, Keeping Stitches on Top, and Finishing Like a Pro

Plush projects can feel deceptively “simple” until you’re wrestling a thick, high-pile tummy into a small hoop and wondering why your beautiful lettering disappears into fur.

If you’re staring at a Cubby Buddy bunny and thinking, There’s no way this is going to hoop cleanly, take a breath. This exact project is absolutely doable on a multi-needle machine—specifically the Ricoma EM1010—if you follow a sequence that respects how plush behaves under tension.

Below is the full, practical workflow demonstrated in the video, rebuilt into a studio-ready method with the checkpoints that prevent the two classic disasters: (1) sewing the bunny’s layers/tail together, and (2) sinking stitches that look fuzzy and unreadable.

Ricoma EM1010 + Cubby Buddy Bunny: The “Unstuff First” Ritual That Makes Hooping Possible

The single biggest reason people struggle with stuffed animals is they try to hoop them while they’re still… stuffed. You need the plush skin to lay flat so the hoop can clamp evenly. Think of it like trying to iron a shirt while wearing it—it just doesn't work. You need to create an "empty shell."

What the video does (and you should copy)

• Unzip the zipper at the bottom of the Cubby Buddy.
• Pull out the main body stuffing pod.
  

• Reach up into the neck area and remove the separate head stuffing pod as well.

This is not optional if you want a flat, controllable embroidery field. With both pods removed, the bunny looks “empty” and collapses into a workable shell—exactly what you want.

Comment-driven reality check: One viewer asked whether the creator made the Cubby Buddy. She didn’t—she purchased the bunny from a local quilting store. That matters because these “zip-and-remove” plush blanks are a specific style; if you’re in a market where plush toys don’t have removable pods, you’ll need a different approach (more on that in the decision tree later).

Warning: Keep scissors and sharp tools away from the plush zipper tape and seam allowances. A single nick can turn into a seam failure after the toy is handled or washed. Always use blunt-tip tweezers if you need to fish out a stubborn pod.

Standard 4x4 Tubular Hoop on Plush Faux Fur: How to Clamp Thick Pile Without Distorting the Tummy

Hooping thick plush is where most people lose time—and patience. The video uses a standard 4x4 tubular hoop and acknowledges it’s tedious. The trick is to hoop in a way that controls bulk and keeps the working area centered.

The exact hooping orientation that reduces the fight

The creator positions the hoop so the tightening screw faces her for demonstration. That’s not just for the camera—it’s a practical habit because you can feel and adjust tension without twisting your wrists.

Step-by-step hooping (as shown)

1. Insert the bottom ring of the 4x4 hoop inside the bunny’s cavity. You should maximize the flat area.
2. Align the hoop opening under the tummy area you want to stitch.
3. Place the top ring over the tummy and press down firmly to “sandwich” the plush. Listen for the rings to engage.
   

4. Tighten the adjustment screw to secure the thick pile fabric.
   

Two checkpoints that prevent the “I just sewed my bunny shut” mistake

• Tail check: The video explicitly calls out the bunny’s tail. If you see the tail poking through where it shouldn’t, stop and reposition before tightening.
• Tautness check: You’re aiming for “nice and taut” for plush, meaning the surface is held stable without crushing the pile into a permanent ring (known as "hoop burn").

Here’s the physics in plain language: plush faux fur compresses under hoop pressure. If you over-tighten, you can distort the knit backing and create puckering once the hoop is removed. If you under-tighten, the fabric can creep during stitching and your lettering will wobble.

If you’re doing this regularly, this is where hooping for embroidery machine becomes less about “how” and more about repeatable tension control. Standard hoops rely on friction and screw strength, which can be inconsistent on varying thicknesses.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do Automatically: Stabilizer, Adhesive, and a Clean Work Zone

Before you go anywhere near the machine arm, set yourself up so you’re not improvising mid-hoop. Amateurs rush this; professionals treat it like surgery prep.

What the video uses

• Stabilizer: Tearaway stabilizer (ideal for items you can't wash easily).
• Adhesive: 505 temporary adhesive spray (The industry standard).
• Topping: Water-soluble stabilizer topper (film).
• Cutting: Scissors (Curve-tip preferred).
• Machine: Ricoma EM1010 multi-needle machine.

**Hidden Consumables** (You might need these too)

• Tweezers: For grabbing thread tails.
• Lint Roller: Plush sheds; keep your hoop clean.
• Fresh Needle: Size 75/11 Ballpoint is usually safer for knit-backed plush than a sharp needle.

Why this prep matters (the part most tutorials skip)

Plush is bulky, and bulky items amplify small mistakes:

• A stabilizer sheet that’s too small can shift and cause registration issues.
• Overspray from adhesive can gum up needles and attract lint.
• A topper placed crooked can fold under the presser foot and snag.

Prep Checklist (do this before you mount the hoop)

• Unzip the plush and remove both stuffing pods (body + head).
• Inspect Hoop: Confirm your 4x4 hoop is clean and the screw turns smoothly.
• Cut Stabilizer: Cut tearaway stabilizer large enough to cover the full embroidery field plus 1 inch margin.
• Spray Safety: Keep 505 spray away from the machine (spray in a separate area to avoid gumming up your machine's gears).
• Pre-cut Topper: Cut a piece of water-soluble topper that fully covers the design area.
• Tool Check: Keep scissors handy for thread cleanup after stitching.

Floating Tearaway Stabilizer Inside the Bunny: The Clean Way to Support Stitches Without Fighting Bulk

The video does something smart for thick items: it floats the stabilizer instead of trying to hoop it together with the plush.

This is especially useful when the item’s thickness makes it hard to clamp fabric + stabilizer evenly. Forcing stabilizer into the hoop with thick plush can actually cause the hoop to pop open during stitching.

The exact method shown

1. Spray a sheet of tearaway stabilizer with 505 adhesive. Tip: Shake the can well and spray from 10 inches away. It should feel tacky like a Post-it note, not wet.
   

2. Insert the sticky stabilizer sheet inside the bunny.
3. Slide it underneath the hooped area so it supports the embroidery field from the inside.
   

The key checkpoint from the video: verify the stabilizer covers the entire embroidery field. If it’s short on one side, that’s where you’ll see distortion first.

If you’ve ever heard people talk about a floating embroidery hoop setup, this is the practical version: the hoop holds the plush, and the stabilizer is positioned and held in place with adhesive rather than hoop pressure. This method reduces "hoop burn" significantly.

Setup Checklist (before you walk to the machine)

• Adhesion: Stabilizer is sprayed lightly (tacky, not soaked).
• Coverage: Stabilizer fully covers the embroidery field from the inside.
• Clearance: No stabilizer edges are folded into the hoop ring mechanism.
• Separation: Plush layers are not accidentally stuck together by overspray.
• Obstruction: Tail is free and not trapped in the hoop area.

Mounting the 4x4 Hoop on the Ricoma EM1010: The “Look Underneath” Check That Saves You

Mounting is where plush projects go wrong because the bulk hides what’s happening behind the hoop. You are working blind unless you physically check.

What the video does on the machine

• Slide the hoop onto the machine arm (pantograph).
• Tactile Check: Reach underneath to ensure the back of the bunny isn’t bunched up.
• Visual Check: Pull the tail up and away so it won’t get stitched to the front.

That “check underneath” habit is pure professional muscle memory. On thick items, you can have perfect hooping on the front and still catch a fold of the back layer underneath, ruining the item instantly.

Machine settings shown in the video

• Speed: 400 SPM (Stitches Per Minute)
• Active needle: Needle 4

Why 400 SPM? While the EM1010 can go faster (up to 1000 SPM), 400-600 SPM is the "Safe Zone" for plush. High speeds cause friction, thread breakage, and can make the machine struggle against the weight of the toy. Start slow.

Water-Soluble Topper on Faux Fur: The One Move That Keeps Lettering Crisp Instead of Fuzzy

High-pile fur “swallows” stitches. If you skip this step, your text will look like it is drowning in the fur. The video’s fix is exactly what I’d recommend: add a water-soluble topper on top of the fur.

Why topper works (and what it’s actually doing)

Plush fur has a "nap" (direction of fibers) that springs back up around thread. A topper temporarily compresses and controls that nap so the needle lays stitches on a flatter surface. Your satin edges and small lettering stay readable.

This is the difference between “cute from three feet away” and “clean enough to sell.” If you’re chasing professional results in machine embroidery on stuffed animals, topper is not a luxury—it’s your insurance policy against rework.

Stitching on the Ricoma EM1010 Multi-Needle: Monitor Like a Shop Owner, Not a Hobbyist

Once stitching starts, your job is to watch for early warning signs: thread fray, topper shifting, or the plush creeping in the hoop.

In the video, the machine stitches pink text (“The Crafty Author”) and a heart graphic through the topper.

What “good” looks like while it’s running

• Sound: A rhythmic thump-thump is normal. A sharp clank implies you hit the hoop or a thick seam.
• Motion: The presser foot moves smoothly over the topper without snagging.
• Stability: The plush stays stable; you don’t see the design area "walking" or shifting.
• Visibility: The lettering forms cleanly on top of the fur rather than disappearing.

Operation Checklist (while the design is stitching)

• Topper Watch: Confirm the topper stays flat and doesn’t fold under the presser foot.
• Auditory Check: Listen for any sudden change in machine sound (often a sign of snagging or drag).
• Hoop Security: Watch the plush edges: if the hoop starts to slip, stop immediately and re-hoop.
• Safety: Keep hands clear of moving parts while the machine is running.

Warning: Never reach near the needle area while the machine is stitching. Multi-needle heads move fast, and even a brief “I’ll just adjust this” moment can cause severe injury or damage to the pantograph. Pause the machine before touching anything.

Clean Removal and Reassembly: Tearaway Inside, Topper Outside, Then Head Pod First

Finishing is where gift-quality work is won or lost. The video’s sequence is correct and efficient.

What the video does after stitching

1. Remove the hoop from the plush.
2. Tear away the stabilizer from the inside.
   

The creator notes the stabilizer can remain inside because nobody will see it unless they tear into the plush. That’s a practical choice for personal use; for gifts or products, I prefer a cleaner interior when possible.

1. Peel off the water-soluble topper from the front.
   

The video also notes it’s okay if some topper remains—water will remove it later. A damp Q-tip works wonders here.

1. Reinsert stuffing pods in this order:
   • Head pod first
   • Body pod second
   • Zip closed
     

That order matters because it’s easier to seat the head correctly before the body fills the cavity and blocks your reach.

“My Stitches Sank” and “This Hoop Is a Nightmare”: The Two Problems Everyone Hits (and the Fixes That Actually Work)

The video includes two troubleshooting points that come up constantly in real shops.

Symptom: Hooping thick plush feels impossible

• Likely cause (video): Thick fabric + manual screw hoop requires significant hand force.
• Fix (video): Keep tightening—“just keep going with it.”
• Pro tip (studio reality): If you’re doing more than a few plush items a month, the problem isn’t your strength—it’s your tooling. Traditional hoops rely on friction, which is hard to maintain on squishy items. A magnetic system reduces the repetitive strain, clamping down instantly with vertical force rather than lateral friction.

This is where magnetic embroidery hoops become a workflow decision, not just a gadget. They allow you to "snap" the plush in place without the wrist-twisting struggle.

Symptom: Lettering disappears into fur (sinking stitches)

• Likely cause (video): High-pile fur swallows thread.
• Fix (video): Use a water-soluble topper.
• Pro tip (studio reality): Keep lettering size realistic for plush. Small text (under 0.5 inches) can look fine on flat cotton but turn unreadable on fur even with topper. Increase your font boldness or size for better legibility.

Stabilizer Decision Tree for Plush Toys: Pick the Support Before You Pick the Design

Use this quick decision tree to choose a stabilizer approach based on what kind of plush blank you have.

Decision Tree (Plush Toy Stabilization) 1) Does the plush have a zipper and removable stuffing pods?

• Yes → Use the video method: hoop the plush skin + float tearaway inside with light adhesive + add water-soluble topper.
• No → Go to (2).

2) Can you flatten the embroidery area without crushing the toy permanently?

• Yes → Consider hooping carefully with extra attention to what’s underneath; topper is still recommended.
• No → You cannot use a standard hoop. You must float the toy entirely on top of hooped stabilizer (risky for beginners) or use a magnetic frame system that accommodates bulk.

3) Is the fur high-pile (faux fur) where stitches sink?

• Yes → Add water-soluble topper every time.
• No (Short pile/minky) → Topper may still help for small lettering, but test first.

If you’re building a repeatable gift product line—names, dates, team mascots—this decision tree saves you from wasting blanks and time.

When Magnetic Hoops Stop Being “Nice” and Start Being the Smart Upgrade

The creator ends by saying hooping is tedious and mentions magnetic hoops as a way to make life easier on your hands. That’s not hype—plush is exactly the kind of bulky item where magnetic clamping shines.

If you’re currently fighting a screw hoop on every plush order, consider an upgrade path based on your situation:

• If you’re on a home single-needle setup: options like dime magnetic hoops can reduce hooping struggle and hoop marks on delicate or bulky items.
• If you’re running production or planning to: High-strength SEWTECH magnetic frames for multi-needle machines can cut hooping time dramatically (by up to 40%) and reduce operator fatigue.

And if you’re scaling beyond occasional gifts into steady orders, a multi-needle platform like the ricoma em 1010 embroidery machine class of equipment is often where throughput starts to make sense—more needles means fewer thread changes, and fewer thread changes means fewer interruptions per day.

Warning (Magnetic Safety): Magnetic hoops are powerful. Keep them away from pacemakers/implanted medical devices, and avoid pinching fingers when the magnets snap together. The force required to hold thick plush is significant; handle with respect.

The “Looks Like a Gift” Finish: Clean Threads, Smooth Nap, and a Final Reveal You’d Sell

The video’s final reveal shows the bunny fully reassembled with the stitched design visible and centered.

If you’re gifting or selling these, here’s the finishing standard I recommend (general best practice—always test on your specific plush):

• Trimming: Trim jump threads cleanly on the front (flush with the surface).
• Brushing: Lightly brush the fur around the lettering so the nap lays naturally. A soft toothbrush works well.
• Cleaning: If topper residue remains, remove it with a small amount of water or steam.
• Inspection: Zip fully closed and check the seam line so it sits flat.

One more practical note from the creator: she mentions she could have made the design bigger, but likes the size. That’s a good reminder—on plush, readability beats “maximum fill.” A slightly larger name often looks cleaner than tiny text that gets lost in the pile.

If you’re doing this repeatedly and want to reduce hooping time even further, many shops pair magnetic hoops with a magnetic hooping station-style workflow so the operator can clamp consistently without wrestling the item in mid-air.

Quick Recap: The Exact Video Workflow (So You Can Repeat It Without Guessing)

• Unzip the Cubby Buddy and remove body and head stuffing pods.
• Insert the bottom hoop ring inside the bunny, align the tummy, press the top ring down, and tighten.
• Float tearaway stabilizer inside using 505 spray (tacky feel).
• Mount the hoop on the Ricoma EM1010 and check underneath so nothing is bunched or caught.
• Pull the tail away, place water-soluble topper on top, and stitch (Recommended: 400-600 SPM, needle 4).
• Unhoop, tear away stabilizer inside, peel topper outside, then re-stuff head first, body second, zip closed.

Do it in that order, and plush stops being “scary”—it becomes a reliable, repeatable product you can confidently make for gifts or small-batch sales.

FAQ

• Q: How do I hoop a Cubby Buddy bunny tummy with a standard 4x4 tubular hoop without sewing the tail or back layer on a Ricoma EM1010?
  A: Unstuff the Cubby Buddy completely first, then do a “tail + underneath” check before tightening and before stitching.
  • Unzip the bottom and remove both stuffing pods (body pod and head pod) to create a flat, controllable shell.
  • Insert the bottom ring inside the bunny cavity, align the tummy area, press the top ring down, then tighten the screw.
  • Pull the tail up and away and physically look/reach underneath the hoop to confirm no back layer is bunched into the stitch field.
  • Success check: The hooped tummy feels stable (not sliding), the tail is clearly outside the stitch area, and the underside is smooth with no trapped folds.
  • If it still fails… Stop immediately, unhoop, and re-hoop with extra attention to the tail position and the underside fold-out before mounting on the EM1010 arm.
• Q: How do I prevent hoop burn and puckering when hooping thick faux fur plush in a 4x4 tubular hoop for a Ricoma EM1010 job?
  A: Tighten only to “plush-taut” (stable without crushing), and avoid forcing extra bulk into the hoop clamp.
  • Tighten the hoop screw until the tummy area stops creeping, then stop before the pile looks permanently crushed.
  • Float the stabilizer instead of trying to clamp plush + stabilizer together if the thickness makes the hoop uneven.
  • Keep the hoop clean and the screw turning smoothly so you can apply consistent pressure without over-torquing.
  • Success check: After hooping, the plush surface is held steady but the pile is not deeply ring-marked and the knit backing is not visibly distorted.
  • If it still fails… Treat it as a tooling limitation: a magnetic clamping system often reduces hoop marks on bulky plush compared with a friction screw hoop.
• Q: How do I float tearaway stabilizer inside a Cubby Buddy bunny using 505 temporary spray adhesive without shifting during stitching on a Ricoma EM1010?
  A: Spray tearaway lightly to a tacky feel, then slide it inside so it fully covers the embroidery field from underneath.
  • Spray 505 on the tearaway away from the machine area so overspray does not gum up parts or attract lint.
  • Insert the sticky stabilizer sheet inside the bunny and position it directly under the hooped tummy area.
  • Verify the stabilizer covers the entire stitch field (with margin) and that no edges are folded into the hoop ring mechanism.
  • Success check: The stabilizer stays flat and centered under the design area when you move/tilt the plush, with no corners peeling back.
  • If it still fails… Reduce adhesive (so it’s tacky, not wet) and re-position to avoid accidentally sticking plush layers together.
• Q: How do I stop embroidery lettering from sinking into high-pile faux fur when embroidering a Cubby Buddy bunny on a Ricoma EM1010?
  A: Use a water-soluble topper on top of the fur for every high-pile plush lettering job.
  • Place the water-soluble topper smoothly over the embroidery area before starting the design.
  • Monitor while stitching to ensure the topper stays flat and does not fold under the presser foot.
  • Keep lettering size realistic for plush (small text often becomes unreadable even with topper).
  • Success check: Satin edges and letters remain crisp and readable on the surface instead of looking fuzzy or “buried.”
  • If it still fails… Re-evaluate the design choice (increase text size/boldness) and re-run a test with topper placement adjusted flatter.
• Q: What is a safe starting stitch speed on a Ricoma EM1010 for embroidering a bulky stuffed animal like a Cubby Buddy bunny?
  A: Start around 400 SPM as shown, and only increase after the plush proves stable and the machine runs smoothly.
  • Run the design at 400–600 SPM as a safe zone for plush, especially when the toy weight and seams add drag.
  • Listen for sound changes; a sudden clank can indicate a seam/hoop contact or snag.
  • Pause and re-check hoop security and topper position if the plush starts “walking” in the hoop.
  • Success check: The EM1010 runs with a steady rhythm, no sudden noise spikes, and the design area does not shift during stitching.
  • If it still fails… Slow down further and re-check underside bulk and hoop seating before restarting.
• Q: What safety steps should be followed before adjusting topper, tail position, or fabric placement near the needle area on a Ricoma EM1010 multi-needle embroidery machine?
  A: Pause/stop the Ricoma EM1010 before any hand adjustment—never reach near the needle area while the head is moving.
  • Stop the machine first, then reposition topper or pull the tail away from the stitch field.
  • Keep hands clear of the pantograph and needle zone whenever the machine is running.
  • Treat any “I’ll just nudge it” moment as a stop-and-check event on a multi-needle head.
  • Success check: Adjustments are made only when the machine is fully paused, and the stitch field is clear before resuming.
  • If it still fails… Build a habit of checking topper flatness and tail clearance during setup so fewer mid-run interventions are needed.
• Q: When should a plush embroidery workflow upgrade from a screw 4x4 tubular hoop to magnetic embroidery hoops or a production-style multi-needle setup like a Ricoma EM1010?
  A: Upgrade when the repeating pain is hooping inconsistency, hand strain, or frequent re-hooping—not when skill is the only variable.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Unstuff first, float tearaway inside with light adhesive, add water-soluble topper, and do the “look underneath” check every time.
  • Level 2 (Tooling): Switch to magnetic embroidery hoops when thick plush makes screw-hoop clamping tedious or inconsistent and hoop burn becomes a repeat issue.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Use a multi-needle platform like the Ricoma EM1010 class when throughput matters and thread-change downtime is limiting daily output.
  • Success check: Hooping time drops, re-hoops decrease, and lettering quality becomes consistent across multiple plush blanks.
  • If it still fails… Treat it as a process issue: standardize the prep checklist (unstuffing, stabilizer coverage, topper flatness, underside clearance) before changing equipment again.