Threading Needle #20 on a Ricoma 20-Needle: The Calm, No-Guesswork Path from Spool Rack to Needle Eye

If you’re staring at a multi-needle head and thinking, “One wrong move and I’ll break something,” you’re not alone. The machine looks like a terrifying spiderweb of tensioners and sensors. But here is the secret experienced operators know: The machine isn’t complex; it’s just obedient. It does exactly what the thread path tells it to do.

The good news: threading a modern 20-needle machine—whether it's a Ricoma, a Tajima, or a high-efficiency SEWTECH—is not hard. It’s just sequential. The path only works when each tiny guide creates the correct amount of drag (friction).

In the breakdown below, based on Delonda's demonstration of threading needle #20, we are going to dismantle your fear. We will replace “guessing” with Sensory Checkpoints—specific things you must see, hear, and feel to know you are safe.

The “Don’t Panic” Primer: Why Ricoma Threading Feels Scary (and Why It’s Fixable)

A multi-needle machine looks intimidating because of the volume—20 spools, numbered positions, and a wall of tension knobs. However, the physics are identical to a sewing machine, just multiplied.

To lower your heart rate, understand the Three Stages of Control:

1. Supply (The Rack): Getting thread to the machine without tangling.
2. Pre-Tension (The Top): Straightening the thread before it hits the main controls.
3. Main Tension (The Head): Controlling how tight the stitch is.

If you’re using a ricoma embroidery machine, the fastest way to calm the chaos is to stop looking at the whole machine. Focus on One Path. If you can thread one, you can thread twenty.

Read the Ricoma Thread Rack Like a Pro: Finding Spool #20 Without Second-Guessing

Before you touch a spool, you need a mental map. Delonda starts by identifying the rack layout. Commercial machines count from Left to Right (when facing the machine) or Back to Front depending on the model.

• There are 20 working spool positions.
• The grey spool at the far right is #20, and in this example, it is the empty path we need to fill.
• Note: The extra spools on the far outer edges are often just storage—do not thread from a static storage pin!

The "Visual Anchor" Check:

• Stand directly in front of the machine. Point your finger at Spool #20. Trace an invisible line straight up. Does it align with the eyelet labeled #20 on the thread tree? If the line is diagonal, you are in the wrong lane.
  

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Pull Thread: Spool Base, Snips, and a Clean Feed

Most thread breaks happen before the machine even starts—because of poor prep. Do not skip this.

Prep Checklist (Do this before touching the eyelets)

• The Puddle Test: Pull 12 inches of thread off the spool. drop it on the table. Does it curl up tightly like a pig's tail? If so, the thread is old or twisted; it will cause knotting. Ideally, it should relax.
• The Base Check: Does the spool sit flat? Delonda notes that the white plastic spool seat can interfere with smaller cones.
  • Fix: If the spool wobbles, remove the plastic seat insert (twist and pull) and let the spool sit directly on the round sponge pad. A wobbling spool adds inconsistent tension spikes.
• Tool Check: Have your snips and tweezers ready. Do not break thread with your hands—it leaves frayed ends that are impossible to thread through 0.5mm holes.

Hidden Consumable Alert: Keep a can of compressed air nearby. Dust bunnies in the tension discs can ruin your day.

Thread the Upper Rack Eyelets Without Tangling: Two Eyelets, One Rule—Smooth Pull

Delonda threads the overhead rack in a specific "UP and OVER" sequence. This tree acts as a skylift for your thread.

Action Steps:

1. Pull thread from spool #20.
2. Pass it through the large eyelet directly above on the top bar (Back to Front).
3. Pass it through the second eyelet on the middle bar (Top to Bottom).

Sensory Check (The "Water" Test):

• Feel: Pull the thread gently. It should flow like water—zero resistance.
• Look: Ensuring no thread has looped around the metal pole itself.
  

Seat the Pre-Tension Disks Correctly: “Lay It Flat—Don’t Wrap It”

STOP. This is where 50% of beginners fail. The pre-tensioner (the small knob usually on top) is the "straightener."

The Procedure:

• Guide the thread to the right side of the tension post.
• Lift the top metal plate slightly with your fingernail.
• Slide the thread flat between the two plates.
• CRITICAL: Do NOT wrap the thread around the post. It just sandwiches between the disks.

Sensory Check (The "Floss" Snap):

• Sound/Feel: When you slide the thread in, you should feel a subtle "clunk" or resistance as it seats against the center post. It should feel like flossing your teeth—snug, but movable.

Expert Insight: If you wrap this post, your tension will skyrocket to over 300g (way too high), causing instant breaks.

The Wire Threading Tool Trick for White Guide Tubes: Fast, Clean, and No Fraying

The long white tube carries the thread from the back of the machine to the front head. You cannot push thread through it—it’s too limber. You need the Wire Shepherd's Hook (usually included with the machine).

Action Steps:

1. Insert the wire tool from the front of the tube (near the head) toward the back.
2. Hook your thread into the wire loop at the back.
3. Gently pull the wire tool out the front, bringing the thread with it.
4. Replace the tube ends: Ensure the white tube is seated firmly in its clips so it doesn't vibrate loose.

Warning: Physical Safety
Be extremely careful when pulling the wire tool out. If you pull too hard or fast, the wire can whip out or snap back. Keep your face away from the trajectory of the wire tool.

The Main Tension Knob #20: One Clockwise Wrap That Prevents 80% of “Why Is It So Tight?”

Now we are at the control center. This knob determines your stitch balance.

The Golden Rule:

1. Guide thread between the main tension disks (start right side).
2. Wrap exactly 1.5 rotations clockwise (usually one full circle plus the exit).
3. The thread MUST exit to the left (roughly at the 9 o'clock position) hooking over the check spring.

Empirical Data (The "Sweet Spot"): For standard 40wt polyester thread, the tension here should measure between 110gf and 130gf (grams-force) if you use a tension gauge. If you are comparing ricoma embroidery machines to other brands, this range is universal for successful satin stitching.

Sensory Check:

• Feel: Pull the thread. It should feel distinct resistance now, like pulling a heavy shoelace. If it slides freely, you missed the disks. If it requires muscle, you wrapped it twice.
  

Check Spring Hook + Take-Up Lever: The Tiny Path That Makes Stitches Look Stable

This section is the "heartbeat" of the stitch. The check spring (the little wire that bounces) absorbs slack.

Action Steps:

1. Pass thread behind the check spring block.
2. Go under the curved metal bar eyelet.
3. Go UP to the Take-Up Lever (the arm that moves up and down).
4. Thread the lever eyelet Right to Left.

Sensory Check (The Rhythm):

• Visual: When you pull the thread, watch the little check spring wire. It should bounce down and spring back up. If it doesn't move, your thread isn't seated in the tension knob correctly.
  

Needle Bar Eyelet #20 and the Needle Eye: Clean Thread Tip, Front-to-Back, Then Park It

We are in the home stretch. Precision matters here.

A) The Needle Bar Guide

• Find the small eyelet just above the needle clamp, labeled #20. Pass thread through.
• Tip: If the thread is frayed, cut a fresh 45-degree angle tip with your sharp shears. Licking the thread helps stick the fibers together.

B) The Needle Eye

• Insert thread through the needle eye Front to Back.
• Pass it through the hole in the presser foot.
• Park it: Pull the thread up and clip it into the spring holder (or "keeper") behind the needle bar. This prevents the thread from being sucked out when the machine starts.
  

When the Thread Feels “Way Too Tight”: The Safe Tension Loosening Move Delonda Uses

In the video, Delonda pulls the thread and identifies a sensory red flag: "This feels tight."

The Safe Adjustment Protocol:

1. Do NOT force it. Heavy drag breaks needles.
2. Identify Tension Knob #20.
3. Turn the knob Counter-Clockwise (Left). Think "Lefty-Loosey."
4. How much? Turn in tiny increments—think "15 minutes" on a clock face (e.g., from 12:00 to 11:45).
5. Re-test: Pull again. Repeat until the resistance is firm but smooth.
   

The Bent Guide / Crooked Lever Problem: What to Do (and When to Stop)

Delonda notices a bent guide bar. This is a common reality in shipping or used production machines.

Troubleshooting Logic:

• Phase 1 (Visual): Is the metal actually crimped (sharp fold) or just bent (curve)? Hard crimps cut thread. Curves are usually okay.
• Phase 2 (Function): Run thread through it. Does it shred?
  • If YES: Stop. You need to replace the part or use needle-nose pliers (carefully) to smooth it.
  • If NO: Proceed with caution, but mark it for future maintenance.

Owners of production workhorses like the ricoma mt 1501 embroidery machine know that downtime is the enemy; don't ignore a bent part if it causes frequent thread breaks.

Setup That Prevents Re-Threading: Stabilizer Choices, Fabric Control, and a Simple Decision Tree

You can thread the machine perfectly and still fail if your "canvas" (the fabric) is unstable. Beginners often blame the thread path when the real issue is the hoop.

The Stabilizer Decision Tree

Use this logic to avoid "Hoop Burn" and shifting designs:

1. Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirt, Polo)?
   • YES: Use Cut-Away stabilizer + Spray Adhesive. Requirement: Maximum Stability.
   • NO (Denim, Canvas): Use Tear-Away stabilizer.
2. Is the item difficult to hoop (Buttons, thick seams, backpacks)?
   • YES: This is a Trigger Point for tool upgrades. Traditional plastic hoops will pop open or leave "burn marks" (shiny rings) on the fabric.

The Solution Layer (Commercial Loop):

• Level 1 (Technique): Use more backing and tighten the screw with a screwdriver (risky for beginners).
• Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): Switch to Magnetic Hoops.
  • For Home Machines: Our magnetic frames clamp automatically without screws, preventing wrist pain and hoop burn.
  • For Production: Terms like magnetic embroidery hoop are your gateways to understanding efficient production. They allow you to hoop a shirt in 5 seconds vs. 45 seconds.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Industrial Magnetic Hoops (MaggieFrames, Mighty Hoops, etc.) are incredibly powerful.
* Pinch Hazard: They can crush fingers. Handle by the edges.
* Medical: Keep at least 6 inches away from Pacemakers.
* Tech: Keep away from credit cards and phone screens.

Three Checklists That Make Threading Repeatable (Not a “Hope and Pray” Ritual)

Print this out. Tape it to your machine.

1. Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Is the thread path clear of old lint?
• Is the spool sitting on the sponge (plastic seat removed if needed)?
• Is the thread unwinding 12 inches without curling?
• Hidden Consumable: Is the needle fresh? (Change every 8 hours of stitching).

2. Threading Checklist (The Path)

• Upper Rack: Straight through, no tangles.
• Pre-Tension: Seated between disks, NOT wrapped.
• Main Tension: One full wrap clockwise, exit left.
• Take-up Lever: Threaded Right to Left.
• Needle Eye: Front to Back.

3. Final Go-No-Go (Sensory)

• Pull test: Does spacing feel consistent with other needles?
• Visual: Is the tail parked in the spring clip?
• Speed Setting: For your first run, set the machine to 600 SPM (Stitches Per Minute). Do not run at 1000 SPM until you trust your threading.

If you are an embroidery machine for beginners user, adhering to these lists will save you hours of frustration.

Troubleshooting Map: Symptom → Likely Cause → Fix

The machine speaks to you through symptoms. Here is how to translate:

If you’re comparing ricoma machines or other multi-needles, remember: Most mechanical issues are actually Setup issues.

The Upgrade Conversation Nobody Wants to Have (Until Orders Start Coming In)

Finally, let’s talk about the Elephant in the room: Scaling Up.

Delonda’s video shows the reality of single-head operation. It is detailed work.

• The Bottleneck: If you are spending 5 minutes threading and 5 minutes hooping for a 10-minute stitch-out, your machine is idle 50% of the time.
• The Profit Killer: Physical fatigue. Fighting tight plastic hoops and re-threading needles kills your desire to take large orders.

The "Tool Upgrade" Path:

1. Struggling with Hooping? Upgrade to Magnetic Hoops. They align automatically and hold thick garments (like Carhartt jackets) that plastic hoops can't grip.
2. Struggling with Capacity? If you are consistently running orders of 20+ pieces, a single machine isn't enough. Many professionals browse multi needle embroidery machines for sale not because they need more needles, but because they need throughput.
3. The Next Step: SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machines offer the bridge between hobbyist pricing and industrial durability, allowing you to run jobs faster with higher stability.

Threading is a skill. Production is a mindset. Master the thread path today, but keep your eyes on the tools that will let you grow tomorrow.

FAQ

• Q: How do I correctly seat the Ricoma 20-needle machine pre-tension disks so the thread does not instantly break?
  A: Seat the thread flat between the pre-tension plates—do not wrap the thread around the post.
  • Lift the top metal plate slightly with a fingernail.
  • Slide the thread in from the right side so it lies flat between the two plates.
  • Avoid looping the thread around the post (wrapping spikes tension and causes breaks).
  • Success check: the thread feels snug like flossing, with a subtle “clunk” as it seats, but still pulls smoothly.
  • If it still fails: re-check the spool feed for snags and inspect the pre-tension area for lint/dust.
• Q: What is the correct wrap direction and exit position on Ricoma main tension knob #20 to avoid “too tight” thread feel?
  A: Wrap the thread clockwise about 1.5 rotations and make sure the thread exits to the left so it hooks the check spring path correctly.
  • Guide the thread between the main tension disks from the right side.
  • Wrap clockwise one full circle plus the exit (about 1.5 rotations total).
  • Confirm the thread exits around the 9 o’clock position (left side) toward the check spring.
  • Success check: pulling the thread feels like steady “shoelace” resistance—firm, not free-sliding and not requiring force.
  • If it still fails: re-thread because the most common cause is missing the tension disks or wrapping twice.
• Q: How do I safely loosen tension on Ricoma tension knob #20 when the upper thread feels “way too tight” during threading?
  A: Turn Ricoma tension knob #20 counter-clockwise in tiny steps and re-test—do not force the thread.
  • Stop pulling hard; heavy drag can lead to needle damage.
  • Turn the knob counter-clockwise in small increments (about “15 minutes” on a clock face).
  • Pull-test after every small adjustment before turning more.
  • Success check: the thread resistance becomes firm but smooth, without jerky grabbing.
  • If it still fails: confirm the pre-tension is not wrapped and the thread is exiting left off the main tension path.
• Q: How do I thread the Ricoma white guide tube using the wire threading tool without fraying the thread or risking a whip-back injury?
  A: Feed the wire tool from the front, hook the thread at the back, and pull gently while keeping your face out of the tool’s path.
  • Insert the wire tool from the front of the white tube toward the back.
  • Hook the thread into the wire loop at the back, then pull the tool out slowly from the front.
  • Re-seat the tube ends firmly in their clips so the tube cannot vibrate loose.
  • Success check: the thread slides through the tube smoothly and the tube stays fully seated in its clips.
  • If it still fails: cut a fresh thread tip with snips (don’t tear by hand) and try again with a cleaner, stiffer end.
• Q: What should I do on a Ricoma multi-needle embroidery machine when the design birdnests (loops) underneath the fabric?
  A: Re-thread the upper path and confirm the thread is actually inside the main tension disks—birdnesting commonly means upper tension is too loose or missed.
  • Remove the thread from the main tension area and re-thread carefully through the tension disks.
  • Verify the thread exits left and engages the check spring path.
  • Run a slow first test (a safer starting point is 600 SPM) to confirm stability before speeding up.
  • Success check: the underside stops forming loose loops and the pull-test feels consistent with other needles.
  • If it still fails: compare the “feel” against a neighboring needle path and check for thread jumping out of the check spring area.
• Q: How do I prevent Ricoma “Check Upper Thread” errors caused by thread jumping out of the check spring path?
  A: Re-thread the main tension knob so the exit-left path keeps the check spring engaged and stable.
  • Re-thread the main tension area, ensuring the thread is seated between the disks (not riding on the edge).
  • Confirm the thread exits to the left and routes behind/through the check spring section as intended.
  • Pull the thread by hand to watch the check spring action.
  • Success check: the check spring visibly bounces down and returns when you pull the thread.
  • If it still fails: inspect for bent guides that may be deflecting the thread out of position.
• Q: What safety steps should beginners follow to avoid needle breaks on a Ricoma multi-needle machine when the thread feels tight or the hoop might collide?
  A: Pause immediately and verify clearance and tension—needle breaks usually come from hoop strikes or excessive thread drag.
  • Stop the machine before testing anything by force.
  • Check that the hoop path is clear of the needle area (no collision risk during movement).
  • If the thread pull-test feels overly tight, loosen the main tension knob counter-clockwise in small increments.
  • Success check: the needle area has clear travel and the thread pull-test becomes firm-smooth without “muscle pull.”
  • If it still fails: inspect for bent/crooked guides that can shred thread and trigger break events.
• Q: What is the best way to reduce hoop burn and shifting on difficult-to-hoop items before upgrading to magnetic embroidery hoops or a SEWTECH multi-needle machine?
  A: Start with stabilizer and hooping technique, then move to magnetic hoops for speed and consistency, and consider a multi-needle upgrade when idle time dominates.
  • Match stabilizer to fabric: use cut-away (often with spray adhesive) for stretchy knits; use tear-away for stable fabrics like denim/canvas.
  • For hard items (buttons, thick seams, backpacks), add backing and tighten carefully (technique level), but avoid over-torquing as a beginner.
  • Upgrade option: magnetic hoops can reduce hooping time and lower hoop burn risk by clamping evenly without screws.
  • Success check: the fabric stays stable (less shifting) and shiny hoop rings/marks are reduced after stitching.
  • If it still fails: treat frequent re-threading + slow hooping as a production bottleneck—magnetic hoops are the next tool step, and higher throughput may justify moving to a SEWTECH multi-needle setup.